Lifter replacement/upgrade/fix
07-06-2014, 05:22 PM
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Lifter replacement/upgrade/fix
Doing an engine rebuild due to some bearing material in sump/filter. Engine progressed from an occasional 'ticking' (lifter?),to continuous ticking, to knocking that sounded like one crankshaft bearing deteriorating.
During the teardown to get to the crankshaft I inspected the Lifters. Most had their tappet jammed in the lifter bucket -not collapsed, jammed solid. Pulled the tappets from the buckets and found clean oil inside,no debris,no significant wear on the lifters,tappets or lifter cradle. Once the lower half of the tappet was pulled, the spring and other half fell out easily.So what happened to cause most of the tappets to get jammed? Design defect in the lower half of the tappet?
Immediately prior to the ticking progressing to knocking I took a sharply curved freeway on ramp at speed.Oil starvation? No, the baffle in the sump is stock & seems to work fine. But maybe it doesn't work well enough and that incident caused a drop in oil pressure = lifters starved momentarily and the cams hammered the tappets into the top of the lifter? Please note the distinction between collapsed (meaning a broken tappet spring perhaps) and jammed/hammered into the roof of the lifter body.
Once oil pressure returned to normal , it was insufficient to free the tappet .BTW the oil pump and it's drive seem perfect.
The point of this description is to hint that perhaps this is the reason that Porsche(INA) upgraded the lifters from 996.105.041.50 to 996....72 ?
I mention this because there has been discussion of using new lifters with the old part number to replace stuck/noisy old lifters . If mine are anything to go by, wear, dirty oil isn't the issue - it is a sump/baffle issue combined with the design of the tappet/lifter that allows it to be hammered & jammed ??
If this is the case(& I am not qualified to judge) ,replacing all the lifters with the old part number is a foolish ? It would be just as risky(but way more expensive!) as un-jamming the original unworn tappets and reusing them.
Anyone know exactly what modifications were made in the ..50 to ..72 revision?
The hunt for revised lifters is of interest because there are lots of 'bad lifter' posts here and they are expensive- a full set of 24 run $500-1000 -even if you buy the Kia (also INA/Febi??) listed as an interchange in a prior post here:
Kia 0K95K-12-101A = Porsche 996.105.041.72 ??
FYI -These were fitted to 2002 & later 3.6 Variocam plus engines according to a prior 996 post.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Porsche-911-...b56cba&vxp=mtr
or LuK 06843011056
http://www.autocarspare.com/catalog/...95k12101a.html
Here is a more comprehensive list that confirms(?) many alternatives :
http://www.yoyoparts.com/oem/39231/b...ml#interchange
The other option if the lifter body is unworn is to replace just the jam-prone tappet? For example a Mitsubishi tappet # MD377560 ? Would this be equivalent to the tappet in the revised Porsche 996.105.041.72 ?
But the tappets from the revised lifters may not fit the older buckets?
Just looking for some experienced advice and any updates to the links above.
During the teardown to get to the crankshaft I inspected the Lifters. Most had their tappet jammed in the lifter bucket -not collapsed, jammed solid. Pulled the tappets from the buckets and found clean oil inside,no debris,no significant wear on the lifters,tappets or lifter cradle. Once the lower half of the tappet was pulled, the spring and other half fell out easily.So what happened to cause most of the tappets to get jammed? Design defect in the lower half of the tappet?
Immediately prior to the ticking progressing to knocking I took a sharply curved freeway on ramp at speed.Oil starvation? No, the baffle in the sump is stock & seems to work fine. But maybe it doesn't work well enough and that incident caused a drop in oil pressure = lifters starved momentarily and the cams hammered the tappets into the top of the lifter? Please note the distinction between collapsed (meaning a broken tappet spring perhaps) and jammed/hammered into the roof of the lifter body.
Once oil pressure returned to normal , it was insufficient to free the tappet .BTW the oil pump and it's drive seem perfect.
The point of this description is to hint that perhaps this is the reason that Porsche(INA) upgraded the lifters from 996.105.041.50 to 996....72 ?
I mention this because there has been discussion of using new lifters with the old part number to replace stuck/noisy old lifters . If mine are anything to go by, wear, dirty oil isn't the issue - it is a sump/baffle issue combined with the design of the tappet/lifter that allows it to be hammered & jammed ??
If this is the case(& I am not qualified to judge) ,replacing all the lifters with the old part number is a foolish ? It would be just as risky(but way more expensive!) as un-jamming the original unworn tappets and reusing them.
Anyone know exactly what modifications were made in the ..50 to ..72 revision?
The hunt for revised lifters is of interest because there are lots of 'bad lifter' posts here and they are expensive- a full set of 24 run $500-1000 -even if you buy the Kia (also INA/Febi??) listed as an interchange in a prior post here:
Kia 0K95K-12-101A = Porsche 996.105.041.72 ??
FYI -These were fitted to 2002 & later 3.6 Variocam plus engines according to a prior 996 post.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Porsche-911-...b56cba&vxp=mtr
or LuK 06843011056
http://www.autocarspare.com/catalog/...95k12101a.html
Here is a more comprehensive list that confirms(?) many alternatives :
http://www.yoyoparts.com/oem/39231/b...ml#interchange
The other option if the lifter body is unworn is to replace just the jam-prone tappet? For example a Mitsubishi tappet # MD377560 ? Would this be equivalent to the tappet in the revised Porsche 996.105.041.72 ?
But the tappets from the revised lifters may not fit the older buckets?
Just looking for some experienced advice and any updates to the links above.
Last edited by Schnell Gelb; 07-06-2014 at 09:37 PM.
07-07-2014, 11:12 AM
#2
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Sometimes the change may be a detail. I don't know about Porsche, but Mazda went through revisions of the HLA (hydraulic lash adjusters) in early Miatas which basically was just changing the diameter of the oil input hole - later ones were just a bit bigger. Early ones gave chatter at startup.
07-07-2014, 12:02 PM
#3
Race Director
If the clean side of the engine's oil system has debris that engine is not a good candidate for a rebuild.
The zero-lash adjusters operate on a very small sliding clearance. I have an intake lifter for my Boxster and one for my Turbo and in both the zero lash mechanism has a close enough fit that even dry with no oil film at all the zero lash adjuster will hold air when squeezed together by the fingers.
If the any part of the valve lifter or valve assembly is hammered this suggests the oil pressure to the lifters was insufficient and the zero lash adjusters were unable to keep the lash at zero or near zero and the cam lobe striking the lifter with some clearance acted in some ways like a hammer.
For the oil pressure to be insufficient doesn't require outright failure of the baffling. It may have been that some less than fully defoamed oil (oil with some residual air in it) was ingested by the pump and this aerated oil allowed the zero lash adjusters to partially collapse.
This defoamed oil can arise from too low an oil level, the wrong oil, or oil that is past its change by date. In this case the oil has become contaminated with combustion byproducts, unburned fuel and water to name two, and foams more readily because of it. There is a limit to how effective the defoam pots are and using the wrong oil or running the oil level too low or running oil for too long may deliver oil that exceeds the pots' ability to remove sufficient air from the oil.
If I were faced with replacing lifters in either of my cars I'd use the latest part # lifter. My desire to use my engine as a test bed to try to find some more perfect lifter is zilch.
I would never mix or use an "old" lifter bucket with new zero lash adjuster. I would replace the entire assembly, lifter bucket and its zero lash adjuster with a new complete assembly.
If I even suspected there could be debris on the clean side of the engine's oiling system I'd flush the oil system out thoroughly after disassembling the engine and removing as many parts are possible.
It is important to remove as much hardware as possible as the debris can be anywhere and everywhere. For instance the VarioCam hardware would likely be contaminated and based on having held a used one in my hand I do not see any way to disassemble this unit to clean it. Just flushing it is not guaranteed to remove any trash so I would just replace the old used ones with new ones. but not before I was sure the engine and its oiling system was super clean with no debris.
(Be sure you check the piston oil jets. Any debris in the jets can restrict even block oil flow to the pistons and any piston without a full spray of oil will run hot and likely prematurely fail.)
The zero-lash adjusters operate on a very small sliding clearance. I have an intake lifter for my Boxster and one for my Turbo and in both the zero lash mechanism has a close enough fit that even dry with no oil film at all the zero lash adjuster will hold air when squeezed together by the fingers.
If the any part of the valve lifter or valve assembly is hammered this suggests the oil pressure to the lifters was insufficient and the zero lash adjusters were unable to keep the lash at zero or near zero and the cam lobe striking the lifter with some clearance acted in some ways like a hammer.
For the oil pressure to be insufficient doesn't require outright failure of the baffling. It may have been that some less than fully defoamed oil (oil with some residual air in it) was ingested by the pump and this aerated oil allowed the zero lash adjusters to partially collapse.
This defoamed oil can arise from too low an oil level, the wrong oil, or oil that is past its change by date. In this case the oil has become contaminated with combustion byproducts, unburned fuel and water to name two, and foams more readily because of it. There is a limit to how effective the defoam pots are and using the wrong oil or running the oil level too low or running oil for too long may deliver oil that exceeds the pots' ability to remove sufficient air from the oil.
If I were faced with replacing lifters in either of my cars I'd use the latest part # lifter. My desire to use my engine as a test bed to try to find some more perfect lifter is zilch.
I would never mix or use an "old" lifter bucket with new zero lash adjuster. I would replace the entire assembly, lifter bucket and its zero lash adjuster with a new complete assembly.
If I even suspected there could be debris on the clean side of the engine's oiling system I'd flush the oil system out thoroughly after disassembling the engine and removing as many parts are possible.
It is important to remove as much hardware as possible as the debris can be anywhere and everywhere. For instance the VarioCam hardware would likely be contaminated and based on having held a used one in my hand I do not see any way to disassemble this unit to clean it. Just flushing it is not guaranteed to remove any trash so I would just replace the old used ones with new ones. but not before I was sure the engine and its oiling system was super clean with no debris.
(Be sure you check the piston oil jets. Any debris in the jets can restrict even block oil flow to the pistons and any piston without a full spray of oil will run hot and likely prematurely fail.)
07-07-2014, 12:55 PM
#4
Drifting
Thread Starter
Dennis,
Like you ,I am a Miata fan. An OEM Miata lifter is $10.Porsche $25+ .My beater Miata after 70,000 miles of neglect by a PO has no lifter problems.
The 90k miles Boxster engine I am working on has oil residue the color of honey .P.O. obviously changed frequently.There is no sludge ,nor any deposits anywhere. The engine hasn't been dismantled from the day it left Finland.
Like you ,I am a Miata fan. An OEM Miata lifter is $10.Porsche $25+ .My beater Miata after 70,000 miles of neglect by a PO has no lifter problems.
The 90k miles Boxster engine I am working on has oil residue the color of honey .P.O. obviously changed frequently.There is no sludge ,nor any deposits anywhere. The engine hasn't been dismantled from the day it left Finland.
07-07-2014, 01:21 PM
#5
Drifting
Thread Starter
Macaster,
Thank you for your contribution.
My guess is that the dimensions of the tappet parts were modified to prevent jamming .If the Kia lifters were significantly cheaper(they are not),I would try them. I have a vehicle with the Kia/Mitsubishi/Hyundai 3.8L V6 and it is quite impressive -and it has a 1000,000 mile drive-train warranty !(Take note Porsche).
Do you think a deep sump+baffle kit would have prevented the foaming issue you mention? Or is there a specific de-foam upgrade?
I ask because the oil level was at maximum & had recently been changed.
Fortunately the car has the LN filter mod. so despite the bearing fragments in the filter & sump, there is none in the oil pump,scavenge pumps . Only in the filter,sump and some on the mesh of the oil pickup.
One feature inside this engine is the multitude of deep pockets in the castings. If the engine is neglected these 'pits' would be a treasure trove to excavate to find ominous debris.
This experience is an impressive testimonial for the LN filter modification made by the P.O. Well done Charles,I am grateful for your engineering success, very grateful !
Thank you for your contribution.
My guess is that the dimensions of the tappet parts were modified to prevent jamming .If the Kia lifters were significantly cheaper(they are not),I would try them. I have a vehicle with the Kia/Mitsubishi/Hyundai 3.8L V6 and it is quite impressive -and it has a 1000,000 mile drive-train warranty !(Take note Porsche).
Do you think a deep sump+baffle kit would have prevented the foaming issue you mention? Or is there a specific de-foam upgrade?
I ask because the oil level was at maximum & had recently been changed.
Fortunately the car has the LN filter mod. so despite the bearing fragments in the filter & sump, there is none in the oil pump,scavenge pumps . Only in the filter,sump and some on the mesh of the oil pickup.
One feature inside this engine is the multitude of deep pockets in the castings. If the engine is neglected these 'pits' would be a treasure trove to excavate to find ominous debris.
This experience is an impressive testimonial for the LN filter modification made by the P.O. Well done Charles,I am grateful for your engineering success, very grateful !
07-07-2014, 04:05 PM
#6
Race Director
"My guess is that the dimensions of the tappet parts were modified to prevent jamming ."
That wouldn't be my guess. The lifters all exist in nearly the same environment or operating conditions and work basically using the same principles -- incompressibilty of oil and labyrinth sealing -- and I would dare say also have some dependency upon the viscosity of the oil with which the engine will run.
Thus regarding using new lifters intended for some other engine, if you tell me the source engine for the new lifters is spec'd to run a lighter oil I could imagine the lifters from that engine have even tighter running/sliding fits to work well with the lighter viscosity oil.
Also, do not be so sure the Porsche lifter with the new part number is an improvement over the old lifter with the new part number.
The Porsche lifter with the new part number could have arisen because the lifter maker changed the implementation of the old lifter over time enough that Porsche felt the lifter no longer qualified as a suitable replacement part. The new lifter may be the same as the old lifter, while the old lifter has morphed into something else, and perhaps something less, or if you want maybe something more but unsuitable for the application.
A deeper sump with better baffling can often help in marginal oiling systems. Part of the job of the baffling is to keep oil from moving away from the oil pump pickup under high g-force conditions. It is also intended to keep aerated oil out, to give the scavenged oil time to shed more of any air that remained in the oil after it was pumped through the pots intended to remove the air.
The oil sump baffle is designed to let oil at the bottom enter the enclosure that surrounds the oil pump pickup the idea being this oil at the bottom is as free of air as it can be (or it would not be at the bottom).
But if for some reason sufficient air is not being removed then a deeper sump to increase the volume of oil and slow the intake of oil to allow the oil more time to shed any residual air before it makes it into the baffling can be a good thing.
That wouldn't be my guess. The lifters all exist in nearly the same environment or operating conditions and work basically using the same principles -- incompressibilty of oil and labyrinth sealing -- and I would dare say also have some dependency upon the viscosity of the oil with which the engine will run.
Thus regarding using new lifters intended for some other engine, if you tell me the source engine for the new lifters is spec'd to run a lighter oil I could imagine the lifters from that engine have even tighter running/sliding fits to work well with the lighter viscosity oil.
Also, do not be so sure the Porsche lifter with the new part number is an improvement over the old lifter with the new part number.
The Porsche lifter with the new part number could have arisen because the lifter maker changed the implementation of the old lifter over time enough that Porsche felt the lifter no longer qualified as a suitable replacement part. The new lifter may be the same as the old lifter, while the old lifter has morphed into something else, and perhaps something less, or if you want maybe something more but unsuitable for the application.
A deeper sump with better baffling can often help in marginal oiling systems. Part of the job of the baffling is to keep oil from moving away from the oil pump pickup under high g-force conditions. It is also intended to keep aerated oil out, to give the scavenged oil time to shed more of any air that remained in the oil after it was pumped through the pots intended to remove the air.
The oil sump baffle is designed to let oil at the bottom enter the enclosure that surrounds the oil pump pickup the idea being this oil at the bottom is as free of air as it can be (or it would not be at the bottom).
But if for some reason sufficient air is not being removed then a deeper sump to increase the volume of oil and slow the intake of oil to allow the oil more time to shed any residual air before it makes it into the baffling can be a good thing.
07-07-2014, 04:37 PM
#7
Drifting
Thread Starter
Has anyone who has the new lifters fitted experienced jamming/collapsing ?
That would help figure out if the new part number is of any help.
For reference old/new numbers are: 996.105.041.50 changed to 996....72
Perhaps the other interesting question is : Which version does Jake Raby use? I have read some very interesting comments by him on lifters in his posts in the 996 section.
That would help figure out if the new part number is of any help.
For reference old/new numbers are: 996.105.041.50 changed to 996....72
Perhaps the other interesting question is : Which version does Jake Raby use? I have read some very interesting comments by him on lifters in his posts in the 996 section.
Trending Topics
07-08-2014, 03:02 AM
#8
Racer
I was always under the impression that Raby "modified" the lifters in his engines, as they were one of the (22) modes of failure in the M96 engines.
It would be interesting to see if he would actually supply a set and how much he would charge you for some of his own lifters......
It would be interesting to see if he would actually supply a set and how much he would charge you for some of his own lifters......
07-08-2014, 11:29 AM
#9
Drifting
Thread Starter
Stephen ,In other applications the trick modification is to the little hole in the anular groove around the outside of the bucket(cam follower in Oz-speak?)
I do have new info on prices/interchange:
I found a cross-over chart at YoYoparts that indicates the BGLA #HL6330 is a substitute for 99610504172 & the 'bmw' part # 11321748884. RockAuto sells it at less than $10 each. The catch is that it is European sourced and incurs $40 shipping charge.Still a bargain compared to the $30+ from some other sources.When you buy 24, that really adds up!
http://www.yoyoparts.com/oem/39231/b...ml#interchange
The Interchange info suggests an even cheaper option that is also available from Rockauto for $7 ! It is part AE FOL153.
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,ca...%2Bfor%2BHYTEC
I do have new info on prices/interchange:
I found a cross-over chart at YoYoparts that indicates the BGLA #HL6330 is a substitute for 99610504172 & the 'bmw' part # 11321748884. RockAuto sells it at less than $10 each. The catch is that it is European sourced and incurs $40 shipping charge.Still a bargain compared to the $30+ from some other sources.When you buy 24, that really adds up!
http://www.yoyoparts.com/oem/39231/b...ml#interchange
The Interchange info suggests an even cheaper option that is also available from Rockauto for $7 ! It is part AE FOL153.
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,ca...%2Bfor%2BHYTEC
Last edited by Schnell Gelb; 07-10-2014 at 01:15 PM.
07-11-2014, 03:07 AM
#10
Former Vendor
It would be interesting to see if he would actually supply a set and how much he would charge you for some of his own lifters......
We don't sell any components.
It'll take you guys a few years to figure out the differences in the lifters available. It took us that long.
07-11-2014, 12:49 PM
#11
Drifting
Thread Starter
Well fellow Rennlisters Jake has thrown down the gauntlet:
"It'll take you guys a few years to figure out the differences in the lifters available. It took us that long."
Let us combine our resources and find out which is the best lifter and why.
And when we do, we'll share our findings with Jake :-) -as a thank you for all the help he has given us on this Forum.
"It'll take you guys a few years to figure out the differences in the lifters available. It took us that long."
Let us combine our resources and find out which is the best lifter and why.
And when we do, we'll share our findings with Jake :-) -as a thank you for all the help he has given us on this Forum.
08-09-2014, 05:40 PM
#12
Drifting
Thread Starter
Good News for Engine Builders - save $700++:
I was surprised no RennLister offered a definitive answer to this very expensive part number issue . Lifter replacement afflicts the Boxster/Cayman,996 and other P-Cars that use the same part number .There has been at least one part number revision and some confusion about which is the best lifter and specifically why.There is much conjecture but little documentation from INA or Porsche on what changes were made. The anecdotal posts about substituting "BMW"(actually the same part from INA?) lifters have only one follow-up confirmation that the substitution was effective. Seems most unlike Rennlist to miss an opportunity to save almost $700++ on parts that may differ only in packaging !
I contacted Rock Auto who had a potential substitute part and asked if they would confirm it fits+works on my Boxster by contacting INA. They seemed helpful but they never followed up with me ,so I reluctantly abandoned this substitution attempt. Just before I paid $700 for the cheapest set of 24 Lifters I could find with the correct Porsche part # ,I tried Rock Auto one more time. Bingo ! They now list the substitute part as fitting. They are $10 ea instead of $30++. The Intl. shipping is offset to some degree by the 5% discount code.Rock Auto caution that this part is only intended to be fitted to EU cars :-).The Manufacturing dates and other details are correct for my car.
Part Number Part Type Price EA Core EA Quantity Total
2001 PORSCHE BOXSTER 3.2L H6
BGA HL6330 (BGAHL6330) Valve Lifter $ 9.05 $ 0.00 24 $ 217.20
Discount $ -10.86
Shipping FedEx International Priority $ 38.92
Order Total $ 245.26
I'll let y'all know if they work when I eventually get the engine re-assembled.It needed reconstructive surgery!
I was surprised no RennLister offered a definitive answer to this very expensive part number issue . Lifter replacement afflicts the Boxster/Cayman,996 and other P-Cars that use the same part number .There has been at least one part number revision and some confusion about which is the best lifter and specifically why.There is much conjecture but little documentation from INA or Porsche on what changes were made. The anecdotal posts about substituting "BMW"(actually the same part from INA?) lifters have only one follow-up confirmation that the substitution was effective. Seems most unlike Rennlist to miss an opportunity to save almost $700++ on parts that may differ only in packaging !
I contacted Rock Auto who had a potential substitute part and asked if they would confirm it fits+works on my Boxster by contacting INA. They seemed helpful but they never followed up with me ,so I reluctantly abandoned this substitution attempt. Just before I paid $700 for the cheapest set of 24 Lifters I could find with the correct Porsche part # ,I tried Rock Auto one more time. Bingo ! They now list the substitute part as fitting. They are $10 ea instead of $30++. The Intl. shipping is offset to some degree by the 5% discount code.Rock Auto caution that this part is only intended to be fitted to EU cars :-).The Manufacturing dates and other details are correct for my car.
Part Number Part Type Price EA Core EA Quantity Total
2001 PORSCHE BOXSTER 3.2L H6
BGA HL6330 (BGAHL6330) Valve Lifter $ 9.05 $ 0.00 24 $ 217.20
Discount $ -10.86
Shipping FedEx International Priority $ 38.92
Order Total $ 245.26
I'll let y'all know if they work when I eventually get the engine re-assembled.It needed reconstructive surgery!
08-09-2014, 10:28 PM
#13
Former Vendor
Measure all clearances.. This includes the crown radius. When we first attempted to run these particular units we found an alteration of the cam lobe taper was required due to the slightly different crown of the lifter.
I have also seen some of these lifters be as much as .0025" smaller diameter than the "other" units. Differences in the hydraulic characteristics of the two have also been observed, if the engine sounds like a small diesel at idle, you know why.
There are several different lifters that are very similar to each other, but upon much closer inspection you may find differences. Some differences require back to back comparison to understand. Once upon a time I used a pressure transducer and data logger to watch the differences between different lifters in practical application. This was after we had a vehicle come in with a recent lifter job that threw misfires all over when hot, but never when cold. The car had gone to 7 shops till it arrived here and we found out what had occurred.
Approach with care and understand that parts people only have cross references to guide them and most have no idea how an engine works. The info they have may not be accurate.
Not saying that you won't have perfect experience CS by doing this, just saying that when you start swapping things around that it's all guilty until proven innocent in an engine that proves the point.. I appreciate thinking outside the box, which is why we started experimenting with different lifters in these engines more than a decade ago. Today some of my engines use lifters that aren't even manufactured for a European car. Some aren't even made of metal and others aren't hydraulic...
I have also seen some of these lifters be as much as .0025" smaller diameter than the "other" units. Differences in the hydraulic characteristics of the two have also been observed, if the engine sounds like a small diesel at idle, you know why.
There are several different lifters that are very similar to each other, but upon much closer inspection you may find differences. Some differences require back to back comparison to understand. Once upon a time I used a pressure transducer and data logger to watch the differences between different lifters in practical application. This was after we had a vehicle come in with a recent lifter job that threw misfires all over when hot, but never when cold. The car had gone to 7 shops till it arrived here and we found out what had occurred.
Approach with care and understand that parts people only have cross references to guide them and most have no idea how an engine works. The info they have may not be accurate.
Not saying that you won't have perfect experience CS by doing this, just saying that when you start swapping things around that it's all guilty until proven innocent in an engine that proves the point.. I appreciate thinking outside the box, which is why we started experimenting with different lifters in these engines more than a decade ago. Today some of my engines use lifters that aren't even manufactured for a European car. Some aren't even made of metal and others aren't hydraulic...
08-10-2014, 12:22 AM
#14
Drifting
Thread Starter
Thank you for contributing your knowledge to this issue.
Hopefully it may also be covered in your soon to be published(?) M96 Definitive Guide.
Despite all the Posts on this subject (& I have read them all !),nobody has mentioned the specific issues you raise. I shall measure carefully !
As I accumulate a little knowledge & some experience of the M96, I am awed by the amount of small details that cumulatively seem to potentially doom these engines. All the more reason to beg for publication of a book to help us. I'll even proof read it & pay for it - if that gets me a chance to study it sooner rather than later :-).
Thanks for helping us.
Hopefully it may also be covered in your soon to be published(?) M96 Definitive Guide.
Despite all the Posts on this subject (& I have read them all !),nobody has mentioned the specific issues you raise. I shall measure carefully !
As I accumulate a little knowledge & some experience of the M96, I am awed by the amount of small details that cumulatively seem to potentially doom these engines. All the more reason to beg for publication of a book to help us. I'll even proof read it & pay for it - if that gets me a chance to study it sooner rather than later :-).
Thanks for helping us.
08-10-2014, 10:45 AM
#15
Drifting
Ahh my morning Boxster forum read has been most enjoyable today!
Thanks Jake for the insight -- Schnell Gelb -- thanks for thinking out of the box
and do let us know how things go.
Mike
Thanks Jake for the insight -- Schnell Gelb -- thanks for thinking out of the box
and do let us know how things go.
Mike