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Realized that I did not posted many photos of what’s up, ..when you have a 2001 Boxster S ..with 2011 Spyder roof !
..Which I do not think is a so common case.
I took some “risks” going this way, it is not “finished” as I wanted to be yet, but at least, it shows that such (a strange) mod ..is possible !
(The "rear fixations" are not "finalized" yet (I currently use some rubber that goes in tension, when the cover is (electrically) put back in place. It is "ok", but I think, (or hope !) I can do a bit better !)
(Yes, the side windows are OEM 2011 Spyder glasses !)
As you can see, the front part is a real beautiful (OEM) carbon piece, that is very light, and require a dedicated (OEM) latch ..that is directly compatible with the OEM 986 roof fixation.
For those interested into 2011 Boxster Spyder roof on a 986 Boxster, here is some little news:
Removing the original roof, ..leave a “hole” between the OEM movable cover and the rear cockpit.
When you use a Spyder roof, it does cover the the passenger, but in case of rain, the space between the cockpit and the OEM cover is not well protected.
Also, driving without the “rear glove box”, that is located under the OEM roll bar, makes a lot of air turbulences. (With the “glove box” in place, this do prevent the air getting back in your neck !
Well, In my tests to address this problem (I did not wanted to use the OEM spyder body part), I decided to design a soft tonneau cover.
Easy to say, ..but not so easy to do!
First, I used cardboard to get the shape of what I want, and then I used Sunbrella to do this version one, but this is definitively a too soft material for such use.
The good point, is that the “sunbrella” version enabled me to have a very accurate shape design, ..to use it as a good model for a better version.
I found Haartz Stayfast material by the yard, and now I will be able to build the tonneau cover that such roof choice do require in my view.
All to say that if some of you are interested in such design, I will be happy to share the form needed for such cover !
Some photos of the tonneau cover :
Note, In my case, the removal of the OEM roof was required by the use of a roll bar.
(I never had any intention to make my old 986 looking like a Spyder.)
I used a “B&K” rollbar mounted in reverse position (4 points), and then later, added 2 more points, by having soldered tubes going to fixations to the top of the rear suspensions points.
Or, for sure, no room anymore for the OEM roof !
Having the permanent roll bar, I decided to use a 2011 Sypder roof, which fit perfectly well (see above in this thread). And this make another good use of the roll bar !
Just to remember here, that a 2011 Spyder roof, ..do require the change of the side windows, i.e.: OEM 986 against OEM 2011 Spyder side windows. (an easy change, as the over up/down area are strictly the same !! Yes, definitively an interesting modification, ..that do bring some additional storage place ! but it is true that it is a challenging one !
By the way, if you are in need of
. an OEM roof (dark blue), in excellent good shape, (window and canvas) complete with frame (now Sold !)
. a pair, ..(or one) OEM 986 side windows
Just let me know, I do have these in stock !
When I got my Ebay complete top from the guys in New Mexico, they wrapped it in a couple of Harbor Freight furniture blankets and shrink wrapped it. Sent it Fedex, I paid for the shipping. It also could be shipped Greyhound Package Express. I would charge for the processing time if I were you.
It's a great price for a really nice Metropol Blue top with a good window. I put an 03 on my 01, or I'd think about buying it.
If they aren't scratched, I'd consider the side windows. How much? I live in Tucson 85730. PM me with a price.
Hello Brian in Tucson,
Thanks, the side windows are in good shape, not scratched. And they are stored both inside their own cardboard ..in which I got the Spyder windows, and this, since the day of removal !
This was done by a local professional car windows guy, removal and install of the new one was nicely and professionally done.
The problem (cost) is the shipping, any good idea for that ?
Well, what would be your best price ?
I can take a loo tomorrow and take some pictures.
Was not happy with my first release of the tonneau cover in “Sunbrella”, it was way to soft and was “flapping” over “25mph” !
At least, it was used as a good model for the shape of the release 2 cuts.
Now, the release 2 is in place, made of “real” Haarz fabric (same as OEM roofs).
I would say now tonneau cover : problem solved.
The “last” point to make such "solution" being more of a “winter” car would be a better vertical “wall”.
But, I think, they are some good chance that it will stay as is !
The new toneau cover :
Well, if any of you would embark in such project, just let me know, if you would like to have a "paper cut model" for the dimension of such tonneau cover.
Back to the original topic of RANGES, this is a very old and rare document only available to insiders but it shows the range chart for 2 range cars and 6 range cars. I placed an edit inside the PDF. Please excuse a few of the typos but you'll get my jist and with this you can calculate the exact seconds the ignition cycles or "sparks" that occurred in the stated range. It IS a calculation but at a certain point you are splitting hairs. Here is an example that is easy to understand:
At 7,000 RPM there are 350 ignitions per second.
That is 7,000 RPM and 3 ignitions per revolution for a 6 cylinder engine.
4 ignitions for an 8 cylinder and 2 for a 4 cylinder.
So, take the average of the range cycle using the following example: (986 Boxster in range 1 is 7200-7800 so 7500)
and times that by how many ignition cycles per crankshaft revolution.
So 3 for a 6 cylinder. Then divide that total by 60 seconds (revolution per MINUTE)
Example: If you have 1744 in ignition range 1 for a 986 Boxster. 7500 X 3 =22,500/60=375.
So 1744 ignition cycles divided by 375 ignition cycles per second at that RPM =4.65 seconds of over rev
I hope this helps with the whole range thing. Porsche seems to use this as a hostage for warranty repairs but isn't it an oxymoron that a company that's heritage is racing would penalize customers for using their vehicles for the purpose they were intended? This is my first real post so I hope I did not offend anyone or stir up any trouble. My expertise is NOT social media but fixing Porsche's! carkeez
Welcome here Carkeez,
Great to read from you here with your very first post, I’m honored.
I would like to wish you a long ride in this forum, and I’m sure that your knowledge on these cars will be highly appreciated here.
Yes, the R1 and R2 recorded in this particular car, was the original reason of this topic, and ..today, i.e.: near 7 years and 6,000 miles (about 1/3 of these, being track miles) later, I never had any regrets on the decision to buy this car.
Even, beside the R1’s, when I read the Carfax report, ..I learnt (before my decision) that it was all but not a virgin car, so may be, I can be seen as a “risky guy” !
Before this Boxster, I had few 911 ‘s (I think 6 of these) non stop as daily for 30 years.
While I still consider the 911 are fantastic cars, ..because to my eyes, it is a super compromise, i.e.: having the engine far back, let you have a great cabin, with two “spare seats”. For example, when small, my two boys went to the school every morning seating there !
But when you are talking about track time or “spirited” driving, I still consider that nothing beats a car that that has its engine at the right place.
Back to the topic, having a lot of R1 with an old M96 engine (I still did not (yet) opened mine !) does not seems to be a problem. And to be real honest, about the R1, since I have it, ..I did top it off, as now, I’m over of the 65,535 rpm, ..the max that a 16 bit ECU can count ! (Still NO additional R2’s)
One of my complains about the Boxster (v.s. the 911) is the lack of the oil pressure gauge. When you ride on “R compound tires”, with a Boxster, you can get some fairly good lateral G’s (I have recorded often 1.5 lateral Gs in curves), or get one of the fears when using a M96 engine, i.e.: danger of oil starving
I should admit that I have souvenirs of seeing some short red flashings in the lower center part (below the gauges), this even having an oil pan extension and have replaced my OEM plastic oil baffle by a full more complete oil baffle equipped with metal door, I would still love to have a full analog oil pressure reading !
To my view, the best (aesthetic) solution is to replace the Boxster cluster by a 911 cluster. (I do have already a “911” pressure transducer to be put in place, ..and run extra wire to the cluster !
Well, not a big deal, but a lot of little details to make a good Boxster even a bit better !
Winter is over, and..
After good work (thank you for your help and good work Carkeez), I'm back to have a "911" look from the driver seat from my Boxster.
OK, I still need to install the analog oil pressure sensor and run the wire from engine to cluster, but at least, odometer and VIN are all fine and correct.
Winter is over, and..
After good work (thank you for your help and good work Carkeez), I'm back to have a "911" look from the driver seat from my Boxster.
OK, I still need to install the analog oil pressure sensor and run the wire from engine to cluster, but at least, odometer and VIN are all fine and correct.
Nicely done! Where did you get the steering wheel from or is it re-done some where? The wheel also looks great!
I bought it in a small shop in San Jose, California.
Basically, it is an OEM steering wheel that have been "regripped" on demand (Alcantara with white stitching, in a "extra thicker" size, (I have large hands) and with a white leather marker).
Let me dig into my files to see if I find the name and check if the place still exist.
If it does, will PM it to you !
PS : I need to finish the job, as right now, the analog oil pressure is not connected (!), the on board computer is enabled, but no switch and no cables are set to command it and the roof light are not working, ..because the donor car (911) was a coupe, ..not a cab !!
As the VIN has been "transplanted" in the firmware, I have also to check if my Durametric (cable) still recognize my car !!
You can see that I decided to use a Boxster dash (Dremel it to support the 2 two additional gauges), as I wanted to keep the look of the "Boxster bridge".
@pilot4fn, I found it : it was done by Yvan from DCT Motor Sports (www.dctms.com)
This was back in 2014, ..but the company is still there, doing good work
@pilot4fn, I found it : it was done by Yvan from DCT Motor Sports (www.dctms.com)
This was back in 2014, ..but the company is still there, doing good work
Fantastic, thank you for the link! I'll check them out.
I recently did the 996 Cluster upgrade. Everything was fine, connection to cluster connector nice an easy, no problem. Then, being visiting the back of the Cluster, I decided to do the "OBC upgrade", using dashboard "windows" switches. ..And faced a tough problem : going to pin 21, 22, 23 and 24 of the cluster connector : first question : Which connector ?? I understood that it is the "Light Gray" one. Looking at it, I had a strange vision : in my car, that gray connector has ONLY one (1) original connection !! Yes, only a single wire is attached to this connector.
On all the photos I saw about the 101 Boxster projects, we can see connectors, but no color of the Cover !! and these connectors have all a lot of wire connections !! Is my car "special" having only one wire on the gray connector ?? It is a 2001 Boxster S, and has the "latest" type of cluster : with the set of colors gray-blue-green. It is true that it was equipped by factory with the option 454 : Automatic speed control, ..or one more reason why I'm surprised to do not have more wires on the gray connector as the "speed control should be on that one if I understand well !! Nevertheless, Trying the connection with 21, 22, 23 and 24 on this gray connector and having the "2 switches center" connected to the ground, do not give me any control on the OBC.
Note : for sure, OBC enable, coded using Durametric.
While I’m getting crazy with the normally nice and easy mod to add (enable) the OBC control on my 996 cluster, I decided to act on the Roll bar, that was starting to loose it’s good “steel” look and became a bit “rusty !
As doing Chrome processing become a hard task here in the Silicon Valley due the chemical processing, and environment protection, I decided to go for a Powder Coating solution, choosing a “Super Chrome” processing. I dismounted my roll bar (a less than 10 minutes task) and brought the parts to California Powder Coating in Redwood City).
Few days later, (very fast turnaround, less than a week !) a call from back from Ben Schloss, boss of California Powder Coating saying that it was all done and ready to pick up!
So, reverse work : mounting back the two “bases* that are joint together with a “cross bar” that set a great rigidity between the two sides of the suspensions and also make a perfect anchoring for my 5 points Schroth Harness.
From these bases, two tubes are attached being the 5th and 6th points of the roll bar
The origin of this roll bar was a Brey Krause bar, that has been modified to be integrated in the rear of the OEM "hoop" bar, ..instead of being fitted on the front of it.
The advantage : safety as when driving the car without an helmet, the additional bar (needed to easily pass “broom stick” test with an helmet) is in the back of the OEM bar/hoop that remain equipped with the OEM leather protections.
The cons : no place anymore for the OEM roof, or the reason why I went for adapting the roof of a 2010 Spyder ! (yes, this also forced me to change the lateral windows and have installed Spider side windows). It is true that I never liked the Boxster side windows, I was very happy to have done this change.
Now, the supports, the roll bar base and the “transverse” tube looks real nice, see:
Then re-installation of the modified “B&K” bar :
Now the roll bar looks much better that it used to be :
Note : the whole construction including the B&K modification was made by Markus Frys Racing, Redwood City.
Here, I would like to say that in my life doing “mods” in my cars, I NEVER met someone more talented than Markus. If you have a project that require talent, (the best soldering technique) and parts that need to be plasma cut, do not look any further..
02-20-2019, 02:10 PM
