Mark Dreyer

Here's my ride. Thanks to Christian (Verbotn) on RL, I got a great deal on PSS9's and GT3 seats. I'm thinking he needs to move to a Cup Car and give me a similar deal on his "mini-GT3"

My other mods include Pagid yellow pads, GT3 brake ducts, GT3 master cylinder, ss brake lines,separate set of wheels/R compound tires, B&M short shift. Brey Krause rollover bar, 6 point harness, Sports Exhaust. I do one DE/month on average along with the occasional autocross.

BTW, I usually trailer this to the events. My back can't take more than an hour street driving.

SCAN Automotive

Will do.

Love the looks of the GT3R front bumper on your car. That'll be my next bumper, when I need one.

SCAN Automotive

Sounds like a familiar formula!

With the Mode plates / Moton's in the back, the top of the adjuster BARELY clears the sheet metal in the back, and can be reached from inside the car. It's tight. It's also pretty easy to remove the hard top (at least with a factory top) lift up the clamshell, and reach in there. Although, if you put some big holes in things, the car gets lighter!

SCAN Automotive

For a street car that's going to feel 'good' and 'sporty', I like putting in the H&R sway bars and a set of Bilstein PSS9/10 shocks. Don't set the car too low (most people do, but the PSS shocks don't like it, and neither does the rest of your car's geometry). Get some good tires and a good alignment. If the car has over 80,000 Km, I'd probably change out the transmission mounts with a new set of original Porsche ones (you'll be surprised how much difference it makes).

Don't bother trying to make more power, it's a waste of time buying intakes / exhausts for these cars unless it's REALLY modified. The exhausts also tend to be incredibly, annoyingly headache inducing on top of not giving you more power.

For brakes, the original brakes are the best thing for the street. I'd consider stainless lines to improve feel a bit, but that's all.

SCAN Automotive

I started building my car with the intent of it being a Spec Boxster car, but nobody in the Pacific Northwest seemed interested in the class, so I got out of control. I love the Spec Boxster idea, but it just wasn't going to be fun racing with myself, so I built something faster (and, unfortunately, a lot more expensive...that wasn't the original idea, again, but I digress).

StanThePorscheFan

Thanks for the advice.

Actually, you guys PPI'd this car a few months ago. A lady from the states drove up in a dark blue Boxster S with 100K miles on it. You didn't find much wrong with it (except for the rear pads and sway bar bushings) so I bought it sight unseen and had it shipped. Thanks. Love the car. Now I wanna start building a Gocartster.

Will H&R sway bars be a significant improvement over OEM M030 bars that are already stiffer than regular ones?

P.S. Changed the sway bar bushings, but it didn't fix rear end clunk over bumps. Someone recomended I change the control arms. What do you think?

SCAN Automotive

Glad that it's working well for you!

I like the H&R bars. They have a bit more rate than the M030 bars, and pair really well with the Bilstein kit.

On your clunk issue, it's possible that several other things could be causing this problem (sway bar bushes being a common problem on higher mileage for creaking, etc.). These include, but are not limited to: Sway bar links, shock mounts, control arms, or loose components. I'd probably try the sway bar links first, if there isn't anything else obvious.

StanThePorscheFan

Thanks. Hopefully I'll have something valuable to add to your thread next summer

Stan

harryrcb

$5k should get you what you want, I assume its not an "S" , but for suspension you can get the ROW 030 which stiffens it up lowers it a little but retains that comfortable street ride, then I would get the Softronic tune to give you exstra hp and torque, now depending on wether or not you do your own work you should have enough money for cold air intake and exhaust, so many choices that it has to be your decision. brakes are another issue, either brakes from a 996 or 986 S would do nicely.
I have an S and do my own work but once you start it becomes addictive and I'm having trouble knowing when to stop, so it's a work in progress.






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reimair

Picked up a 98 Boxster here in Victoria for the track. At this point have removed most everything not needed for the track. Presently down over 600 lbs. Have autocrossed it last summer and now needs to have suspension and cage work done. Not a pretty car but very functional and affordable.
Thinking that I would like to remove the power steering system which would also allow me to simplify the engine drive system substantially. Any advice on this. New to forum. will send pictures when able

Coochas

I'll play.
My car is a 99 Spec Box. I don't race but I'm considering it. The car is an absolute blast to drive.

harryrcb

Nice ride, do you know what it ways?

Coochas

Thanks. She's still heavy at around 2600. Spec Box allows 2650 including driver. As I'm not racing the car I'm slowly working on the weight problem (the car and me).

onefastviking

I did speak to Moton regarding this issue on our cars and I bet in the future it will be addressed. It's not an issue on a car with stock clamshell top, but when you start bolting down the clamshell and hardtop it kinda becomes a pain.

onefastviking

A couple pics of the one of the two Boxsters that I am currently building, it will be on track in January.