SECOND LIFE: 10YRS, 50K MILES - NOW TWEAKING FOR THE TRACK
#1
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Thread Starter
SECOND LIFE: 10YRS, 50K MILES - NOW TWEAKING FOR THE TRACK
started down that slippery slope...
I've been hard at work over the last month or so helping ease my 01 S through it's midlife crisis.
It's now 10 years old and about 30 miles shy of 50K and was crying out for a little extra love and begging to get out to the track.
I've been spending a bunch of time at the track over the last few years - formula cars mostly - but decided to finally get the boxster out there.
In anticipation of a handful of events in March, I went through the car front to back and did a handful of things. While I haven't been on track yet with it, I have been out on the streets shaking down the tweaks and thought folks might want to hear a few comments. I've owned the car for 7 years and the previous owner had done mostly engine work...the TechArt V3 engine kit which includes headers, full exhaust, ECU...passes smog in CA beautifully and sounds awesome. breathes better at speed too along with the bigger techart side scoops. I then did B&M SSK / evo linkage and lightweight (Kinesis K58) wheels...and left it alone until now.
First things to look at were driver controls.
- I fixed a niggling issue I've been having with the techart billet alum shift **** I have...I big the ****, but the two screws that clamp it to the shifter arm had worn through the threads on the **** itself leaving it loose. It's crazy how long I just put up with that. A trip to the hardware store and found a bold just slightly bigger (old ones were metric, this was a 'standard' theaded one so it was just a hair bigger)...problem solved. wow, what a difference the little thing makes.
- I had a set of techart-style aluminum pedals that I was just never that happy with. I ordered and installed a set of SRP (Sullivan Racing Pedals) pedals and I could not be happier....super grippy brake and clutch, smooth and HUGE gas pedal...again, what a difference the little things make
- I found a set of Cobra Suzuka Technology seats (their highest end carbon fiber shell, alcantara cover with Outlast microfiber cushions) here on rennlist. A very nice guy / seller on the GT3 forum had them for sale with all the hardware (997 sliders, Brey Krause side mounts, sub strap bars, Schroth 6 point harnesses, BK harness mounting hardware, the whole thing...drop-in fitment. I did want a seat that was great at the track but could also be yummy enough for daily driving...these seats fit the bill...they are truly sweet. and 14 pounds per seat. 24 with hardware. dropped 40 pounds. (btw, Eric Zimmermann is the gent's name that sold them to me...very good seller, stand up guy)
other safety:
- added BK roll bar extension and fire ext setup
more safety:
- brakes - made a few tweaks to the brakes, too early to tell how well they'll do at the track but added PFC 97 pads, SRF fluid, stainless lines, and GT3 brake ducts for cooling
suspension:
- until now I've just had stock S suspension plus Eibach springs and a front strut brace. I didn't go crazy here but added the next 'logical' step...GT3 front sway, Tarret rear sway, and Tarett drop links all the way around
- also added a rear strut brace since EVO was having a blowout sale on theirs
Tires:
- I've been running PS2's very staggered (225/40/18, 285/30/18) on my 8.5/10 Kinesis K58's. I've decided to try a new tire (I love PS2's but anticipate chewing up street tires at the track so looked for something more economical) and 'square' out the stagger a bit - going with Dunlop Star Specs in 235/40, 265/35...would like to fit a 245 up front and I know many people do...but it just doesn't look like that's going to fit. and it'll be a significant enough change from my current setup that it'll be a good move in the right direction.
Other:
- with all the fiddling, and the fact that my battery was 5 years old...the battery died. I took the opportunity to drop a few pounds there and bought an Odyssey 925...dropped 22 pounds! It's a fully sealed battery, has been great so far, only cost $160 delivered to me, and I bought $4 worth of parts at Kragen to make an awesome tie down for it. the 925 fits super snug right into the existing battery tray, so not much else was needed to secure it.
- since I had the seats out, I pulled out the two subwoofers the prior owner of my car had in there, as well as the amp for them (almost 20 pounds worth) and pulled out all the K40 Calibre laser / radar stuff...I'm selling it to fund the other mods. It's a great radar / laser setup but I haven't had a ticket of any kind in 23 years...I don't need the added protection.
- I pulled out the carpet liners from both trunks but the hardly weigh anything so I put them back it.
- I also pulled out the rear cargo box, and the top and front insulated covers that surround the engine...those are heavy! like 25 pounds...and the car sounds great with them off so I'm leaving it like that for now.
- Rennline tow hook - after all that time and money, why not blow $100 for a hook?! it does look good
I took the car for a little spin this evening and I've got to say, whether destined for the track or just around town, the Boxster remains one of those rare cars that is simply a kick in the pants to drive in all aspects. After owning this car for 7 years now, I'm so glad I've held onto it and enjoy it now more than ever. Now I can't wait to hit the track...Sears Point next Monday, Laguna Seca 2 weeks after that...it's gonna be fun.
__________________
I've been hard at work over the last month or so helping ease my 01 S through it's midlife crisis.
It's now 10 years old and about 30 miles shy of 50K and was crying out for a little extra love and begging to get out to the track.
I've been spending a bunch of time at the track over the last few years - formula cars mostly - but decided to finally get the boxster out there.
In anticipation of a handful of events in March, I went through the car front to back and did a handful of things. While I haven't been on track yet with it, I have been out on the streets shaking down the tweaks and thought folks might want to hear a few comments. I've owned the car for 7 years and the previous owner had done mostly engine work...the TechArt V3 engine kit which includes headers, full exhaust, ECU...passes smog in CA beautifully and sounds awesome. breathes better at speed too along with the bigger techart side scoops. I then did B&M SSK / evo linkage and lightweight (Kinesis K58) wheels...and left it alone until now.
First things to look at were driver controls.
- I fixed a niggling issue I've been having with the techart billet alum shift **** I have...I big the ****, but the two screws that clamp it to the shifter arm had worn through the threads on the **** itself leaving it loose. It's crazy how long I just put up with that. A trip to the hardware store and found a bold just slightly bigger (old ones were metric, this was a 'standard' theaded one so it was just a hair bigger)...problem solved. wow, what a difference the little thing makes.
- I had a set of techart-style aluminum pedals that I was just never that happy with. I ordered and installed a set of SRP (Sullivan Racing Pedals) pedals and I could not be happier....super grippy brake and clutch, smooth and HUGE gas pedal...again, what a difference the little things make
- I found a set of Cobra Suzuka Technology seats (their highest end carbon fiber shell, alcantara cover with Outlast microfiber cushions) here on rennlist. A very nice guy / seller on the GT3 forum had them for sale with all the hardware (997 sliders, Brey Krause side mounts, sub strap bars, Schroth 6 point harnesses, BK harness mounting hardware, the whole thing...drop-in fitment. I did want a seat that was great at the track but could also be yummy enough for daily driving...these seats fit the bill...they are truly sweet. and 14 pounds per seat. 24 with hardware. dropped 40 pounds. (btw, Eric Zimmermann is the gent's name that sold them to me...very good seller, stand up guy)
other safety:
- added BK roll bar extension and fire ext setup
more safety:
- brakes - made a few tweaks to the brakes, too early to tell how well they'll do at the track but added PFC 97 pads, SRF fluid, stainless lines, and GT3 brake ducts for cooling
suspension:
- until now I've just had stock S suspension plus Eibach springs and a front strut brace. I didn't go crazy here but added the next 'logical' step...GT3 front sway, Tarret rear sway, and Tarett drop links all the way around
- also added a rear strut brace since EVO was having a blowout sale on theirs
Tires:
- I've been running PS2's very staggered (225/40/18, 285/30/18) on my 8.5/10 Kinesis K58's. I've decided to try a new tire (I love PS2's but anticipate chewing up street tires at the track so looked for something more economical) and 'square' out the stagger a bit - going with Dunlop Star Specs in 235/40, 265/35...would like to fit a 245 up front and I know many people do...but it just doesn't look like that's going to fit. and it'll be a significant enough change from my current setup that it'll be a good move in the right direction.
Other:
- with all the fiddling, and the fact that my battery was 5 years old...the battery died. I took the opportunity to drop a few pounds there and bought an Odyssey 925...dropped 22 pounds! It's a fully sealed battery, has been great so far, only cost $160 delivered to me, and I bought $4 worth of parts at Kragen to make an awesome tie down for it. the 925 fits super snug right into the existing battery tray, so not much else was needed to secure it.
- since I had the seats out, I pulled out the two subwoofers the prior owner of my car had in there, as well as the amp for them (almost 20 pounds worth) and pulled out all the K40 Calibre laser / radar stuff...I'm selling it to fund the other mods. It's a great radar / laser setup but I haven't had a ticket of any kind in 23 years...I don't need the added protection.
- I pulled out the carpet liners from both trunks but the hardly weigh anything so I put them back it.
- I also pulled out the rear cargo box, and the top and front insulated covers that surround the engine...those are heavy! like 25 pounds...and the car sounds great with them off so I'm leaving it like that for now.
- Rennline tow hook - after all that time and money, why not blow $100 for a hook?! it does look good
I took the car for a little spin this evening and I've got to say, whether destined for the track or just around town, the Boxster remains one of those rare cars that is simply a kick in the pants to drive in all aspects. After owning this car for 7 years now, I'm so glad I've held onto it and enjoy it now more than ever. Now I can't wait to hit the track...Sears Point next Monday, Laguna Seca 2 weeks after that...it's gonna be fun.
__________________
#2
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
update:
also did PFC 2-piece floating rotors up front and new OEM rears with the new pads.
went with Dunlop Star Spec tires and like them a lot so far (only street driving)
I couldn't get near where I wanted to from an alignment standpoint so I'm also putting on Tarett camber plates and rear toe links this week...taking the car to Laguna Seca next monday and am stoked to be getting it on the track.
also did PFC 2-piece floating rotors up front and new OEM rears with the new pads.
went with Dunlop Star Spec tires and like them a lot so far (only street driving)
I couldn't get near where I wanted to from an alignment standpoint so I'm also putting on Tarett camber plates and rear toe links this week...taking the car to Laguna Seca next monday and am stoked to be getting it on the track.
Last edited by fuhrius; 03-09-2010 at 12:56 PM.
#3
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Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Puebla Mex. / Houston Tx.
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My 986 is also 10 yrs old, low miles, only 30k but well driven miles... I think you will enjoy it specially with all those mods... mine in almost stock forms is a blast...
#5
I have pretty much the same setup except I've got PSS9's and a stock engine. My '01S has been running on the track the last two years (as well as being a somewhat uncivilized daily driver).
If you're going to track the car, you really should install an underdrive pulley, as the car was not really designed to run at sustained high rpms through long turns (like turns 1 & 2 at Spring Mountain, or turn 2 at Willow). The pulley will slow down the rotational rate of the accessories, as well as give back a little torque at low RPMs. Otherwise, the power steering return line gets hot (and melts the fitting on the fluid collection tank), the voltage regulator brushes (on the alternator) wear out prematurely, and the water pump seal goes early (ask me how I know). Also increased the engine oil pan capacity slightly; will only know if it wasn't enough to deal with the increased lateral G's...
p.s. After your first day on the track, you (meaning I) will get pissed off at the guy who out-cornered you in a stock Boxster or Cayman on R-compound tires, and then you will go out and buy some R-compound tires. Might as well start shopping for a second set of wheels now. (The slope gets slightly steeper...)
If you're going to track the car, you really should install an underdrive pulley, as the car was not really designed to run at sustained high rpms through long turns (like turns 1 & 2 at Spring Mountain, or turn 2 at Willow). The pulley will slow down the rotational rate of the accessories, as well as give back a little torque at low RPMs. Otherwise, the power steering return line gets hot (and melts the fitting on the fluid collection tank), the voltage regulator brushes (on the alternator) wear out prematurely, and the water pump seal goes early (ask me how I know). Also increased the engine oil pan capacity slightly; will only know if it wasn't enough to deal with the increased lateral G's...
p.s. After your first day on the track, you (meaning I) will get pissed off at the guy who out-cornered you in a stock Boxster or Cayman on R-compound tires, and then you will go out and buy some R-compound tires. Might as well start shopping for a second set of wheels now. (The slope gets slightly steeper...)
#6
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Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I have pretty much the same setup except I've got PSS9's and a stock engine. My '01S has been running on the track the last two years (as well as being a somewhat uncivilized daily driver).
If you're going to track the car, you really should install an underdrive pulley, as the car was not really designed to run at sustained high rpms through long turns (like turns 1 & 2 at Spring Mountain, or turn 2 at Willow). The pulley will slow down the rotational rate of the accessories, as well as give back a little torque at low RPMs. Otherwise, the power steering return line gets hot (and melts the fitting on the fluid collection tank), the voltage regulator brushes (on the alternator) wear out prematurely, and the water pump seal goes early (ask me how I know). Also increased the engine oil pan capacity slightly; will only know if it wasn't enough to deal with the increased lateral G's...
p.s. After your first day on the track, you (meaning I) will get pissed off at the guy who out-cornered you in a stock Boxster or Cayman on R-compound tires, and then you will go out and buy some R-compound tires. Might as well start shopping for a second set of wheels now. (The slope gets slightly steeper...)
If you're going to track the car, you really should install an underdrive pulley, as the car was not really designed to run at sustained high rpms through long turns (like turns 1 & 2 at Spring Mountain, or turn 2 at Willow). The pulley will slow down the rotational rate of the accessories, as well as give back a little torque at low RPMs. Otherwise, the power steering return line gets hot (and melts the fitting on the fluid collection tank), the voltage regulator brushes (on the alternator) wear out prematurely, and the water pump seal goes early (ask me how I know). Also increased the engine oil pan capacity slightly; will only know if it wasn't enough to deal with the increased lateral G's...
p.s. After your first day on the track, you (meaning I) will get pissed off at the guy who out-cornered you in a stock Boxster or Cayman on R-compound tires, and then you will go out and buy some R-compound tires. Might as well start shopping for a second set of wheels now. (The slope gets slightly steeper...)
#7
Water pump starting leaking at around 56k miles (including 5 track days and 40+ autocrosses). You just need to keep an eye on the coolant level and look for leaks before it goes.
My power steering pump tank melted the first day the car hit the track. Car now has a racing oil cooler on the return side of the P/S, but I've heard that the underdrive is probably good enough. If you're not sure, clamp a thermocouple to the metal P/S return line just behind the front engine cover before it goes back into the tank and take some readings while the car is warm at elevated revs (car doesn't even need to be moving; just turn the steering wheel and bring the revs up, and the P/S temp goes up). If you see temperatures well over the nominal engine bay temps (~140-180 degrees F), then it's time to start researching the melting point of plastic...
My power steering pump tank melted the first day the car hit the track. Car now has a racing oil cooler on the return side of the P/S, but I've heard that the underdrive is probably good enough. If you're not sure, clamp a thermocouple to the metal P/S return line just behind the front engine cover before it goes back into the tank and take some readings while the car is warm at elevated revs (car doesn't even need to be moving; just turn the steering wheel and bring the revs up, and the P/S temp goes up). If you see temperatures well over the nominal engine bay temps (~140-180 degrees F), then it's time to start researching the melting point of plastic...
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#9
The underdrive pulley was developed by our Cayman bretheren. When those who came before us (on the track) in Boxsters ran, some of them started melting power steering tanks, so when it happened they put in coolers. But I think when the Caymans started tracking, it became a regular occurance, hence the pulley solution. It's probably the cheapest insurance (~$200) you can buy, and gives you back a few Ft-lbs/hp to boot. Mantis, RSS, and BBI Autosport are all good products...
#10
Rennlist Member
Regarding those Star Soecs.... I have a set, and the upgrade of instant grip on the track over the Pilot Sports was very very obvious. Even in the rain.
That said, I got a nail in one driving home from the track and it's replacement took 4 weeks to get to me...necessitating buying a new set of whatever was available in my size so that I could make the next track event the week after. Ended up with PS2's, which are not a dissapointment, but far less grippy.
p.s. The Star Specs kick up little rocks in the wheel wheels like an R-compound does.
That said, I got a nail in one driving home from the track and it's replacement took 4 weeks to get to me...necessitating buying a new set of whatever was available in my size so that I could make the next track event the week after. Ended up with PS2's, which are not a dissapointment, but far less grippy.
p.s. The Star Specs kick up little rocks in the wheel wheels like an R-compound does.
#11
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
update after first track day
a few summary comments:
- a sunny march day at laguna seca is such a treat, no matter what you're doing there
- I'm very familiar with the track and very comfortable there...first track day in the boxster though
- I was impressed. most of the other drivers and passengers I ran with were too, and a bit surprised. the magic of mid-engine
- the tires were the big surprise - wish I'd gone with 245's up front to dial out a little more understeer...but the grip was fantastic...I never got grip like that with the PS2's - I did put 15mm spacers back on the front to widen the track (the difference in track front to rear was 3.9 inches before adding the spacers...now down to about 2.7 inches)
- the brakes were awesome. not an ounce of fade...dragged the car down with great confidence time and time again
- I ended up with -1.8 neg camber in front with the tarret plates and -2.3 rear and was able to get whatever toe I wanted...went with a little front and rear toe...might still be too much rear camber
did end up with a big grinding noise coming off the right rear after the event...wheel / axle speed, I suspect that's a wheel bearing
- a sunny march day at laguna seca is such a treat, no matter what you're doing there
- I'm very familiar with the track and very comfortable there...first track day in the boxster though
- I was impressed. most of the other drivers and passengers I ran with were too, and a bit surprised. the magic of mid-engine
- the tires were the big surprise - wish I'd gone with 245's up front to dial out a little more understeer...but the grip was fantastic...I never got grip like that with the PS2's - I did put 15mm spacers back on the front to widen the track (the difference in track front to rear was 3.9 inches before adding the spacers...now down to about 2.7 inches)
- the brakes were awesome. not an ounce of fade...dragged the car down with great confidence time and time again
- I ended up with -1.8 neg camber in front with the tarret plates and -2.3 rear and was able to get whatever toe I wanted...went with a little front and rear toe...might still be too much rear camber
did end up with a big grinding noise coming off the right rear after the event...wheel / axle speed, I suspect that's a wheel bearing
#12
Yeah, after driving mid-engined cars, I'm not sure I would be happy with a rear-engined car. Everyone who's ever driven my car call it "real turney", referring to it's unmatched ability to change direction.
Did you try stiffening the rear sway bar to mitigate the understeer? If you didn't max-out the front camber, depending upon your tires, more negative camber will continue to eliminate understeer, at least into the -2ish range. A tire pyrometer will help determine this.
The griding noise probably is a wheel bearing; you'll be able to tell by jacking up the corner, taking it out of gear, releasing the parking brake, and rotating the brake disc. You won't necessarily be able to wiggle the wheel back and forth, as the bearing races can get pitted way before the ***** disintegrate.
Well, it sounds like you had a blast. Cool!
Did you try stiffening the rear sway bar to mitigate the understeer? If you didn't max-out the front camber, depending upon your tires, more negative camber will continue to eliminate understeer, at least into the -2ish range. A tire pyrometer will help determine this.
The griding noise probably is a wheel bearing; you'll be able to tell by jacking up the corner, taking it out of gear, releasing the parking brake, and rotating the brake disc. You won't necessarily be able to wiggle the wheel back and forth, as the bearing races can get pitted way before the ***** disintegrate.
Well, it sounds like you had a blast. Cool!
#13
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
follow up
- thanks to a quick call with Brad Roberts (oh, sage one) I've determined that my 'grinding' noise is likely an e-brake cable rubbing my wheel...not a wheel bearing...glad for that
- my front camber is maxed out at -1.8 with the plates...probably all I need with street tires (albeit sticky ones)
- I'm going to add a little air pressure to the rears for my next trip out (this coming thurs at LS again)...adding 2 psi...I ran 32psi all-around last time
- my front camber is maxed out at -1.8 with the plates...probably all I need with street tires (albeit sticky ones)
- I'm going to add a little air pressure to the rears for my next trip out (this coming thurs at LS again)...adding 2 psi...I ran 32psi all-around last time