US928

Hi, Today check engine light turned on on my 99, i checked with my Code reader i get a error codes P0410 and P1411, anyone can tell me what it is and what should i look for, i don't see any difference in performance, Thank You. Vic :roll:

AlpharettaRK

Search is your friend... These are secondary air injection codes. Here's a write-up of mine from awhile ago. You can also check the tech section on PCA.org or renntech.org for more comprenesive writeups

Here's a link to renntech: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index...howtopic=10184
Cheers
Randy



It is under the passenger side intake manifold. There's 3 pieces that can be bad, an electric vacuum switch that's controlled by the ecu, the control valve which is activated by vacuum from the first part and a one-way valve. Also, a vacuum leak in the circuit can cause the same fault code. The one-way valve can be checked simply by blowing into it, it should allow flow in the direction of the arrow but not the other. The vacum control valve can be tested off the car by applying a vaccum to it, it will make a clear thunking noise when it activates. I used my vacuum brake bleeder to generate enough vacuum to test it. I'm not sure how to test the electric solenoid, since it is activated by the ECU it would work off of 5 volts. It seems like all 3 pieces would run about $100 so it would not be out of the question to replce all 3 while you're in there. Mine the vacuum valve, but I replaced all 3. Make sure you orient the electric valves the way they are on the car or you'll get the codes again. There's a pretty good picture of the pieces in the DCAutomotive catalog.
The only sketchy thing about doing it yourself is that you do have to remove the plastic intake manifold on that side, on my 3.4 one bolt was a real PITA to get to. Evidently it is fine to re-use the o-ring gasket that seals it to the aluminum stacks.

AlpharettaRK

PS - it won't affect performance, only emmisions and at that I think only right after cold starts. But you won't pass a smog test

Turboflyer

Sure you can pass. Do a reset and drive long enough for the computer to reset. If the car is hot it will not cycle again. Get it fixed at your leisure. The only draw back to having the CEL on is it may be something serious that needs immediate attention. I am not sure if the P cars will shut down at low oil or high temps or not. I mean I know you want to fix it but sometimes it does not have to be done right now.

AlpharettaRK

I'm pretty sure it's not just a matter of miles driven but "drive cycles" before the ECU will tell the smog police it's re-set. That wold include a cold start. But in any event, unless you need a tag right now it's not an emergency. Sometimes you can re-set and it will stay off for a while anyway

US928

Hi, Thanks for the reply, I'm in Florida, we don't have a smog Test, I tried to check the link, but unfortunately is broken, I think i should just order the 3 parts and change them.

Turboflyer

The one part, pump will not be cheap, just guessing. Also on cycles, do hot starts count or does the ECU see cold verses hot?

AlpharettaRK

The pump is not part of the 3 I listed but you are correct it would be expensive. The pieces I'm referring to are 10,15 and 18 in this page from the DCautomotive catalog:

http://dcauto.gotdns.com/illustration/index/489477631

If I understand correctly, yes the ECU knows a cold from a hot start. I'm not sure what the definition of a "cold" start is, but I assume it is something that ensures the cats are too cold to be effective right away
Cheers
Randy

PTEC

10, 15, 16 are the most common failures. 15 is a vacuum operated changeover valve, that has a tendancy to go bad. If 15 is bad you want to check to see if one end is excessivly burnt, if thats the case , 10 which is a one way valve should be replaced as well. 16 is a vacuum reservoir which is also known to leak. If your car is a tiptronic, you also have a vacuum valve on the transmission, which also throws P0410 and P1411 when it fails. You can find it in the ATF cooler parts section, its part # 928.574.573.03.

US928

PTEC Thanks for the reply, My car is Tiptronic, can you tell me the location of #10, 15 and 16, i didn't had this problem until i got the car from the shop, i had a rear driver and passenger side shocks and control arm changed, now that you mentioned that tiptronics have a vacuum valve i wonder if they forgot to connect the vacuum line, since they had to remove alot of parts, also i tried to see if i could hear the pump, if i open the engine compartment is the pump visible? can i see it working when i start the car. Thank You. Vic

US928

One more question, Does air pump have a fuse? if yes, where? i could not find it in fuse compartment

Leonardo111

Here is a really detailed video showing how to diagnose and fix this:
And links to cheap new parts

jpcjtrtj

I just did this project, and it appears to have solved my check engine lights. Thank you so much.

Lessons learned: make sure you lubricate the O-rings when you put the injectors back in and also that you attach the wires to the injectors properly. I got a misfire until I fixed this.