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new iPod connection option for CDR220

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Old 04-08-2009, 01:50 AM
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MikeBat
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Default new iPod connection option for CDR220

hello all,

just a quick note regarding a new cable available directly through Becker which not only connects your iPod to your stereo but also charges it.

It is called the BAS-IPOD, cost $64.99, direct from Becker.
http://www.beckerautosound.com/ the phone number on the website is not good. Listen to the message, they quickly tell you the new number.

In any case, the install process was not at all as the instruction manual that shipped with the cable described. The info supplied indicates that each cable is connected separately. In fact, it comes with a connector at both ends, no need to plug individual wires.

NOTE- this takes the slot that belonged to the cd changer, you have to choose, cd changer or iPod.

Here are the steps:
-remove the radio using the special removal key tools (these cost an extra $5)
-connect the connector to the topmost open slot (it will be obvious)
-fish the cable through the open slot in the console from where your pulled the stereo from, aim for the driver side footwell.
-have a second person reach around for the cable as you try to get it through and down to them.
-after you have pulled it through, pass it through to the passenger side footwell.
- the cable is not very long but long enough to for it to be 6 or so inches from the shifter (you can always buy an extension at Best Buy)
-follow the instructions on how to turn the Auxilary input on.
- presto. Done.
-push the radio back into place by giggling it as you slide it back into the slot. (I could not figure a way to say that that seemed PG13)

Now you have a cable and a stock way to have your iPod work with your CDR220 and charge it at the same time.

But.... I do need some help.... I cannot get the removal keys out of the slots! Can anyone help me?
Old 04-08-2009, 08:44 AM
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stumpjumper
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I think the only way to get the removal keys out is to do it while the head unit is out of the case, push the pins in and pull the keys out, then push the head unit back in

is there alternator whine?

sucks that the cable is so short, I'd love to replace my adapter with a better one that could possibly eliminate the alternator whine...
Old 04-08-2009, 10:31 AM
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MikeBat
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Originally Posted by stumpjumper
I think the only way to get the removal keys out is to do it while the head unit is out of the case, push the pins in and pull the keys out, then push the head unit back in

is there alternator whine?

sucks that the cable is so short, I'd love to replace my adapter with a better one that could possibly eliminate the alternator whine...
I kinda thought it may be the case, but I could not see where I would push the pins in. I can easily pull the radio back out now and try it, I wil let ya know.

Regarding alternator whine, I could not see why it would make more noise... I mean it is feeding off of a power source that was there from the initial design of the radio/car (the cd changer).

Because I started the install at 10 PM... and finished around 11pm, I did not take it out for a spin and check it out while driving, but all I can say is from my limited testing period, there was no exra noise besides the sweet sounds of my driving playlist that I created for my Saturday morning ritual drive.

I will report back on that too.

Regarding cable legnth.... a bit of a bummer, but because it is hardwired in there, a long cable may have been too messy in the cockpit. An extension is not a problem and ticks both boxes, longer and easier to remove an not disturb the intergrity of the cockpit.
Old 04-08-2009, 10:44 AM
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stumpjumper
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does it draw power from the radio?

I draw power from the phone jack, and even with a ground loop isolator I get a bunch of whine, I think it's the power source more than it is the becker aux cable

I've got this: http://www.amazon.com/Kensington-Liq...9198026&sr=8-1

the aux cable is run down behind my console delete where the ground loop isolator is hidden, then it goes under the center console, power & line in is hidden above the airbag control unit forward of the shifter housing, then the ipod cable runs past the shifter and into the armrest box where the ipod hides

the little remote is in the non-smoker kit pocket with double sided tape

I had the same aux cable & power setup for my sirius install and it had whine, this has less whine but it's still there... I can only hear it with the hard top on but it's there so it bothers me
Old 04-08-2009, 11:26 AM
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MikeBat
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Yes it draws power from the radio.

I never even thought of the ground loop... stupid me. I will have to check with the engine running tonight.

Your install is much more involved and stealthy then mine currently is. I ran the cable under the carpet and have it poking up near the shifter in the passenger side footwell. I would have liked to have it run as far as the armrest... but if it avoids the alternator whine, somehow... I will not complain.
Old 04-08-2009, 11:46 AM
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well since it draws power from the radio there shouldn't be a ground loop, and therefore shouldn't be any whine

damn... now I don't know what to do
Old 04-09-2009, 09:39 AM
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MikeBat
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Well, it snowed here yesterday.... so I did not go for a ride to try out the new iPod connection.. but I did sit in my driveway and try out the usage of the iPod with the engine running and reving.

There is a slight hum, or buzz, but you have to turn the radio up to 35 to 40 to hear it. I could not hear it when the music was playing, because with the volume at 35 the music is really loud, so loud that I rarely if ever listen to music at this volume for extended periods of time. At this volume, with music, no audible buzz.

If I pause the iPod and turn the volume on the radio to 35 to 40, there is a slight buzz that modulates with the speed of the motor.

So, in conclusion, I cannot see the ground loop buzz as being a problem, because I cannot hear it when the music is playing, even at extreme volumes. The sole time (so far) there is an audible noise is when there is no music and the radio is pegged to max... and that just very happens.
Old 04-09-2009, 10:08 AM
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stumpjumper
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35!

I drive with mine at 7,or 14 if the top is down and I'm on the highway

nice to hear that there's no whine, I'll be thinking about replacing my setup now, damn
Old 04-09-2009, 01:14 PM
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MikeBat
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Originally Posted by stumpjumper
35!

I drive with mine at 7,or 14 if the top is down and I'm on the highway

nice to hear that there's no whine, I'll be thinking about replacing my setup now, damn

Exactly.... tell ya what... the next time I am in the car with the top down, I will record the sound with my cell phone and PM it to you.

You be the judge.

Old 04-09-2009, 02:49 PM
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oh don't bother with that, if you can't hear it I won't be able to either, like I said, I can only hear it with the top up
Old 04-11-2009, 07:23 PM
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Does this work better than the PIE BLAU/-POD adapter I just bought but haven't installed yet??
Old 04-13-2009, 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by srg53
Does this work better than the PIE BLAU/-POD adapter I just bought but haven't installed yet??
With all honesty, I have no clue because I never tried that adaptor.

All I cansay is that I installed it las week and drove all weekend with the blissful sounds of my iPod library blasting away.

No issues. No buzz.

Just tunes.

It worked for me.
Old 04-16-2009, 12:03 AM
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I built the equivalent cable for less than $5, just fyi. You can get the iPod connectors now, it took about an hour and I used an old USB cable that I cut up. For the other end I used butt connectors from Radio Shack and some heat shrink.

Theirs is definitely prettier, though.
Old 04-17-2009, 01:06 PM
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StatmanDesigns
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could you please give some more details about the DIY cable making. Thanks.



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