Help clutch pedal on the floor ??
#1
Help clutch pedal on the floor ??
Hey I just bought this 01 986 with the clutch pedal on the floor. The shop diagnosed it as a bad clutch master cylinder. So for 430.00 , they were to replace both. ( Not a bad price I thought)??
Of course here is where the drama starts.... After install both parts, the shop called me to inform that now I need a clutch ?? HuH , How did I need a 1600.00 clutch for a 430.00 diagnosis ?? I drove this car with the pedal on the floor and the clutch did not slip after picking up the clutch pedal by hand. Yes I started in gear !! I wanted to make sure that all of the gears were there and syncros were not bad...
Here is the question , the shop bleed the system with pressure bleeder backwards and forwards 4 times, there was a small improvement, but not enough for the clutch pedal to release and not enough to fix the problem.
That is where the diagnosis for the clutch came to be......
Has anyone seen where the clutch on these cars can fail but still grab tight??
There is dual mass flywheel , could that have gave in and not give me the travel engagement for the clutch fork to actuate the pressure plate completely.
I was told when the flywheel fails that there is vibration and noise when revving the motor.
We think the slave cylinder is bleed with no air and it is extending normal travel ?? Just not sure what has failed . Thanks for your time..
Next is pulling th trans....... And 1600 clutch and flywheel.....
Of course here is where the drama starts.... After install both parts, the shop called me to inform that now I need a clutch ?? HuH , How did I need a 1600.00 clutch for a 430.00 diagnosis ?? I drove this car with the pedal on the floor and the clutch did not slip after picking up the clutch pedal by hand. Yes I started in gear !! I wanted to make sure that all of the gears were there and syncros were not bad...
Here is the question , the shop bleed the system with pressure bleeder backwards and forwards 4 times, there was a small improvement, but not enough for the clutch pedal to release and not enough to fix the problem.
That is where the diagnosis for the clutch came to be......
Has anyone seen where the clutch on these cars can fail but still grab tight??
There is dual mass flywheel , could that have gave in and not give me the travel engagement for the clutch fork to actuate the pressure plate completely.
I was told when the flywheel fails that there is vibration and noise when revving the motor.
We think the slave cylinder is bleed with no air and it is extending normal travel ?? Just not sure what has failed . Thanks for your time..
Next is pulling th trans....... And 1600 clutch and flywheel.....
#2
Does the shop have experience in Boxsters or is it a normal repair shop?
Is it an "S" model? There is an updated clutch release lever and related parts for the 6-speed.
If the Porsche has significant, like over 45k miles, it will probably need a flywheel as well.
Will definitely need the updated rear main seal, intermediate shaft seal housing and case bolts unless it was done recently.
Is it an "S" model? There is an updated clutch release lever and related parts for the 6-speed.
If the Porsche has significant, like over 45k miles, it will probably need a flywheel as well.
Will definitely need the updated rear main seal, intermediate shaft seal housing and case bolts unless it was done recently.
#4
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I may have missed it, but does the clutch pedal operate normally now, or is it still at the floor, hanging up, etc. Just try to rule out the hydraulics
#5
Still on the floor ? have to pull it back by hand..... I can pump it fast with a little pedal pressure , start the car in gear, but the clutch is dragging a little , seems like the slave cylinder is not actuating all the way out. But I made the tech get in the car a pump the pedal by hand with the slave cylinder out and I held the rod with my hand against the bottom frame shield and the slave cylinder extended the rod out about all the way and I could not hold by hand in , as expected......
I actually stuck my finger on where the fork pivoted against the slave cylinder rod and could feel about 1/2 of play back in forth on clutch fork , seemed normal to me.. Let me say we do see fiber hairs from the clutch disc on the bottom of the bellhousing , where you usually see dust, But I tell you the clutch does not slip when you start the car in gear and pull back on the clutch pedal, when the clutch pedal is on the floor driving in gear , it will slip and shudder until you pull back on the pedal.
I actually stuck my finger on where the fork pivoted against the slave cylinder rod and could feel about 1/2 of play back in forth on clutch fork , seemed normal to me.. Let me say we do see fiber hairs from the clutch disc on the bottom of the bellhousing , where you usually see dust, But I tell you the clutch does not slip when you start the car in gear and pull back on the clutch pedal, when the clutch pedal is on the floor driving in gear , it will slip and shudder until you pull back on the pedal.
#6
I asked the tech if he bench bleed the clutch master cylinder and he said he did not. He also used a pressure bleeder with 30lbs of air pumped on the master cylinder to bleed the air out . He did from front to back and back to front. We also tried it the old fashion way by pumping by the pedal bleeding, at the 3rd release of the bleeder screw it got better, but after the 4th and 5th release of the screw it seemed we lost what we gained.
I am kind of lost , besides the Dual Mass Flywheel setup, but everyone is telling me when it fails that you feel a major vibration or noise, not clutch pedal loss. I wonder if they ran this car through some water and did something to the disc, but you would think that it would slip and I tell you I tried every gear on this car before I bought it, to make sure the trans was not screwed and it did not slip in all the gears after you pulled up on the pedal...........
I am kind of lost , besides the Dual Mass Flywheel setup, but everyone is telling me when it fails that you feel a major vibration or noise, not clutch pedal loss. I wonder if they ran this car through some water and did something to the disc, but you would think that it would slip and I tell you I tried every gear on this car before I bought it, to make sure the trans was not screwed and it did not slip in all the gears after you pulled up on the pedal...........
#7
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I dont think there is any way the dual mass is bad. It sounds like there is either an issue with the release bearing arm/fork, or there is still an issue with air in the hydraulic system. Even with a severely bent fork/arm, the pedal should still return to the top without having to be pulled back.
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#8
Burning Brakes
It sounds like there is still air in the system somewhere....sometimes you have to bleed and bleed some more to get all the air out. If you can start the car in gear and it drives fine without slipping then the clutch is not your problem.
#10
No we bleed with a pressure bleeder from front to back and rear to front no go ..... ALSO like I said the slave cylinder outside the trans , worked as it should.... it pushed the rod almost all the way out..... under extreme pressure, I guess there is no way to inspect the throwout bearing and fork without yanking the trans ???? Also there was no indication of brake fluid leaking from the slave cylinder or the clutch master cylinder when the car came in...... Usually on failed hydraulics you will see some kind of brake fluid leaking from a failing seal.... I am leaning for a failure in either the fork , throwout bearing or pressure plate ?? Has anyone ever seen failing clutch master cylinder or slave cylinder without fluid leaking ???
#11
Ok the clutch disc on the inside came totally apart, either a bad driver or common problem ?? So now the 2nd gear syncro is bad ...............Jeeze it will not stop........ Anyone can give me the procedure in replacing 2nd gear syncro after the trans is on the floor. I have been in front wheel drive standard trans before, mostly import... so my guess should not much different. Will need to use a torch to heat gears to press off, to get to syncro ?? Where should I get the syncro ?? Is it a kit ? Special sealer for the case ? What else while I am in there should I replace ? All seals etc....... FLUID type for the trans, would GM Syncro Mesh HELP, (special trans fluid GM puts out) Looking for someone that does this for profession for advice... Thanks Dave AFTER I AM FINISHED this car will have new clutch , slave cylinder, master cylinder, and 2nd gear syncro.................................................................. ...........................