boxster "check engine light"
#1
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Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Houston,Texas
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boxster "check engine light"
I keep getting a code of 0410 and 1411. These are some sorta secondary air flow codes. Smog pump comes on when powered up manually and no apparent vacuum leaks. Any help out there ?
#2
CHECK THE VACUUM OPERATED AIR INJECTION VALVE,THEY CAN BECOME FAULTY DUE TO A FAULTY ONE WAY VALVE ALLOWING EXHAUST GASSES TO COME BACK UP INTO THE SYSTEM.IT DESTROYS THE DIAPHRAGM IN THE VALVE,THEN IT WON'T OPEN.
#3
I read this post after doing a search. I'm getting the same codes on my '98 Boxster and was wondering what the fix is for this (and how expensive it is). If it is the vacuum operated air injection valve, where is it and how do you check it? Unlike my 993, I don't have a shop manual for the Boxster so I don't have the first idea where to look for it. How much is a replacement valve? Thanks!
#4
It is under the passenger side intake manifold. There's 3 pieces that can be bad, an electric vacuum switch that's controlled by the ecu, the control valve which is activated by vacuum from the first part and a one-way valve. Also, a vacuum leak in the circuit can cause the same fault code. The one-way valve can be checked simply by blowing into it, it should allow flow in the direction of the arrow but not the other. The vacum control valve can be tested off the car by applying a vaccum to it, it will make a clear thunking noise when it activates. I used my vacuum brake bleeder to generate enough vacuum to test it. I'm not sure how to test the electric solenoid, since it is activated by the ECU it would work off of 5 volts. It seems like all 3 pieces would run about $100 so it would not be out of the question to replce all 3 while you're in there. I fixed mine with the vacuum valve. There's a pretty good picture of the pieces in the DCAutomotive catalog.
The only sketchy thing about doing it yourself is that you do have to remove the plastic intake manifold on that side, on my 3.4 one bolt was a real PITA to get to. Evidently it is fine to re-use the o-ring gasket that seals it to the aluminum stacks. It seems like theres a more detailed writeup on wikipedia or maybe even in the archives here.
Cheers
Randy
The only sketchy thing about doing it yourself is that you do have to remove the plastic intake manifold on that side, on my 3.4 one bolt was a real PITA to get to. Evidently it is fine to re-use the o-ring gasket that seals it to the aluminum stacks. It seems like theres a more detailed writeup on wikipedia or maybe even in the archives here.
Cheers
Randy
#6
I've got the same codes now, and would like to know where the best place to get these parts would be, and what EXACTLY to ask for, or search for. I've got over 100k on the car now, so I'd rather just replace all 3. With my luck, more than one is bad anyway. So I might as well, while I'm in there.
Also, is there any way to get to these without removing the intake manifold??? How hard of a job is this, really?
How damaging is this if it doesn't get fixed right away. I put a lot of miles on it, and have to travel over the next couple of weeks. Also not sure how long it will take to get the parts. So it would help to know if there are any other possible consequences.
Thanks in advance!
Also, is there any way to get to these without removing the intake manifold??? How hard of a job is this, really?
How damaging is this if it doesn't get fixed right away. I put a lot of miles on it, and have to travel over the next couple of weeks. Also not sure how long it will take to get the parts. So it would help to know if there are any other possible consequences.
Thanks in advance!
#7
I've got the same codes now, and would like to know where the best place to get these parts would be, and what EXACTLY to ask for, or search for. I've got over 100k on the car now, so I'd rather just replace all 3. With my luck, more than one is bad anyway. So I might as well, while I'm in there.
Also, is there any way to get to these without removing the intake manifold??? How hard of a job is this, really?
How damaging is this if it doesn't get fixed right away. I put a lot of miles on it, and have to travel over the next couple of weeks. Also not sure how long it will take to get the parts. So it would help to know if there are any other possible consequences.
Thanks in advance!
Also, is there any way to get to these without removing the intake manifold??? How hard of a job is this, really?
How damaging is this if it doesn't get fixed right away. I put a lot of miles on it, and have to travel over the next couple of weeks. Also not sure how long it will take to get the parts. So it would help to know if there are any other possible consequences.
Thanks in advance!
the job is a pain in the a$$. no way around it...
you should get the parts from www.SunsetImports.com or www.SuncoastPorsche.com or www.AutohausAZ.com.
you can always look up parts to see what they look like and their approximate cost at the Pelican Parts lookup catalog. BOOKMARK THIS SITE!
http://www.pelicanparts.com/PartsLoo...SA_KATALOG.htm
here is a picture of the entire assembly. click the link below to see the prices. hopefully you don't need the air pump itself. but i have found that Pelican is usually much more expensive than the 3 vendors i listed above.
link to prices http://www.pelicanparts.com/PartsLoo...-06-Frame3.htm
to the original poster, it really helps if we know what model year your car is, how many miles, etc.
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#8
it's not damaging if you don't replace it. you just won't pass emission inspection.
the job is a pain in the a$$. no way around it...
you should get the parts from www.SunsetImports.com or www.SuncoastPorsche.com or www.AutohausAZ.com.
you can always look up parts to see what they look like and their approximate cost at the Pelican Parts lookup catalog. BOOKMARK THIS SITE!
http://www.pelicanparts.com/PartsLoo...SA_KATALOG.htm
here is a picture of the entire assembly. click the link below to see the prices. hopefully you don't need the air pump itself. but i have found that Pelican is usually much more expensive than the 3 vendors i listed above.
link to prices http://www.pelicanparts.com/PartsLoo...-06-Frame3.htm
to the original poster, it really helps if we know what model year your car is, how many miles, etc.
the job is a pain in the a$$. no way around it...
you should get the parts from www.SunsetImports.com or www.SuncoastPorsche.com or www.AutohausAZ.com.
you can always look up parts to see what they look like and their approximate cost at the Pelican Parts lookup catalog. BOOKMARK THIS SITE!
http://www.pelicanparts.com/PartsLoo...SA_KATALOG.htm
here is a picture of the entire assembly. click the link below to see the prices. hopefully you don't need the air pump itself. but i have found that Pelican is usually much more expensive than the 3 vendors i listed above.
link to prices http://www.pelicanparts.com/PartsLoo...-06-Frame3.htm
to the original poster, it really helps if we know what model year your car is, how many miles, etc.
#9
I just finished working on mine today. Started about noon and finished about 9pm, with a few breaks in the middle for various reasons. I NEVER REMOVED THE MANIFOLD, either. Got to everything underneath by removing the alternator, which can be a pain the ****, but it wasn't that bad. Just thought I'd share.
#10
Tierce - congrats on tackling the job and giving us an alternative approach. Admittedly I've probably been into mine more than you have, so I'm prob quicker by default, but 9 hours? 3-4 tops removing the intake, just for future explorers of the inner reaches of thier engine compartments.
In any event, glad you got it fixed
Cheers
Randy
In any event, glad you got it fixed
Cheers
Randy
#11
Tierce - congrats on tackling the job and giving us an alternative approach. Admittedly I've probably been into mine more than you have, so I'm prob quicker by default, but 9 hours? 3-4 tops removing the intake, just for future explorers of the inner reaches of thier engine compartments.
In any event, glad you got it fixed
Cheers
Randy
In any event, glad you got it fixed
Cheers
Randy
As for removing the intake, I was a little concerned with the fuel rail. How do you get around taking the fuel rail apart to get the manifold out? There's also a fuel line that connects the two fuel rails, and it's a little stiff. Just wondering how you managed it.
I bought gaskets for the manifold, but I thought it would be less risky removing the alternator.
#14
Maybe the 3.2 is different from my 3.4. I didn't do anything with a fuel rail. I removed both plastic crossover pipes by loosening the big hose clamps at the throttle body and at the plastic intakes. I removed the pipe coming from the vacuum pump and the ground strap over there. Then I was able to get to 5 of the nuts holding the intake on. To get to the 6th I had to go in behind the seats. That was it. I didn't factor the beers into the time either. Nice work!
Cheers
Randy
Cheers
Randy
#15
i guess there IS a difference then. I can't get my intake manifolds off without moving the fuel rails, at least as far as I know. The Bently manual doesn't explain it very well, and breakdown diagrams have been difficult to find.
On a brighter note, I think my entire problem was that the hole for the vacuum control that goes to the rubber boot connecting the pass. side intake manifold to the crossover pipe was jammed under the manifold itself, and had no access to the airstream. It must not have been reinstalled correctly last time it was taken apart. Not sure who's at fault, but it's no big deal now.
And Yeah, I know there's a runon sentence in there. Just trying to get the point made.
On a brighter note, I think my entire problem was that the hole for the vacuum control that goes to the rubber boot connecting the pass. side intake manifold to the crossover pipe was jammed under the manifold itself, and had no access to the airstream. It must not have been reinstalled correctly last time it was taken apart. Not sure who's at fault, but it's no big deal now.
And Yeah, I know there's a runon sentence in there. Just trying to get the point made.