Seized 2001 boxster project - looking for new engine
 

Hi All,

I just picked up a project car - a 2001 Boxster with about 140K miles. Manual transmission. It was sold with a "seized" engine, so i priced a replacement into my budget, but before completely yanking it i wanted to do a little diagnostic work.

1. I replaced the battery - the one in the car was a re-manufactured battery that was 2.5 years old with absolutely no info. Once i replaced the battery, i was able to see a tiny bit of movement in the crank (few degrees) but no starting.

2. Pulled coils & plugs. With engine IN gear, i threw a wheel on and it still spun freely and the crank does not move. I do not have a socket large enough for the crank, but a pair of channel grips from the side and it isn't budging. Could this be a differential issue causing it to spin freely? Think this is maybe a rookie move. Maybe i need a low profile wrench to get to the crank socket. Think i need 24mm, is that right?


With those symptoms I'm thinking the crankshaft failed. Alternatively, it would be a simultaneous tranny failure (that allows both wheels to spin together, yet somehow not connect to the crank) coupled with a starter failure.

Anything else i should do to diagnose before pulling the engine? I'm not sure i want to get into a full-blown rebuild and teardown. I'd rather purchase a complete engine and perhaps teardown the old (or part it out to recoup some costs).

I do have a borescope (but had used up my wrench time for the evening so haven't pulled photos/video of each cylinder yet).

Thanks!

remove the transmission from the equation. Nothing to do with the engine or the issue at hand. Plus even if there is a transmission issue the 5 speed 2.7 transmissions are cheap.

Did you check the oil yet? Drain it? You dont say if the starter clicked or not.

I would drain the oil & check it before tearing anything apart. It's easy and quick. Pull the filter, any metal? If so the just assume it's time to pull the engine

Doubt very much a crank issue and more likely an ims issue or chains...either of those mean new engine.

Hope you got it for the price of new tires

Thanks for the response. It was fairly cheap, but i do know just buying a running, better condition car would have probably been cheaper in the end - I like fixing things and aem looking forward to a few other aspects of the car once i get it running well (never done reupholstering, nor extensive body work - i may take a crack at the paint).

I also didn't mean to suggest it was a tranny issue, just that the engine itself seemed like the more likely culprit.

Starter barely budged before i pulled plugs - would rotate a degree or two clockwise then back (with brand new, fully charged battery). Currently, it's not clicking - seems to be locked further. Giving a bit of a squeal.

Also, interestingly when I pulled the engine cover serpentine belt was off about half of the accessories (obviously loosely).

Will bore scope the heads tomorrow, throw the 24mm socket on the crank (thanks amazon prime), and drain the oil.

Remeber to turn the engine ONLY to the clockwise direction from the crank. Always turn it to same direction as the engine would run, never to the opposite direction.

Thanks, that is what I had read. My favorite post when searching direction was someone saying that if you can't remember, just start the engine and look. Super helpful haha

Going to lean toward a chain issue that cause it to go out of time & valves hit the head. Could be lucky that it's just 1 bank not both. Oil should give you an easy indication.

Sounds like someone thought they could try to fix it with the belt being off.

Could be a fun project, would start to look for a replacement engine now and then take what you can from the old, keep it for parts or try to sell parts.

Thanks - i found a replacement but has 30 day return period. I'm so busy with work that I'm nervous I could not be finished installing. I've looked at the procedures and think that could be a couple weekends, but wouldn't leave a lot of time for troubleshooting if anything else has issues.Would you mind if i PM you the engine i was eyeing?

On a related note, got the 24mm socket on the crank. That damn handbrake exit bracket is such a pain, but after loosening it i was able to get the socket on with a 15" breaker bar. zero movement (neutral, plugs pulled).

Haven't had time to pull plate and drain oil (12 hour work days + family time), but that's next on the agenda.

Also, i used my super cheap camera scope to hit each head. here are the videos. I just got this scope, it was cheap. I don't know why it's stretching the video (actual resolution is closer to 4:3).
Passenger:

Driver


I'm noticing the video is underexposed (built in display felt about right). The passenger head looks like it has some obstruction in the rearmost cylinder, and overall seems like it is in worse shape. Welcome any input from the experts!

shoot me a pm any time.

Hard to tell, but yea, that pass one looks bad.

Look through these videos. at least gives you some ideas on tearing it down.

I wouldnt rush buying the motor. You would be surprised how cheap you can get one shipped from somewhere. If it were me I wouldn't buy a replacement until I was absolutely sure. I would do the oil/filter check, oil pan, remove the starter (seen a seized starter not let an engine turn over) Doubtful the starter is the issue, but ya never know. Once those are all done I would drop the engine, seperate the transmission and then see if it can be turned over by hand. It doesn't take too long to tear the engine apart when you doint really care about putting it back together or timing. I would still tear the cam covers off, then heads and after that if things were bad get a replacement. At least then you will know what the issue is/was and the most likely cause. Best case you could tear it apart and then find something that makes the engine salvagable.

Of course, if not let me know might be interested in buying it. lol

Thanks - will shoot you a message. part of me is thinking I'd rather swap something in running to get this project on the way, but long-term (once interior, exterior restored) I may want to rebuild engine entirely.

Pickings do seem slim for low mileage engines. I did see a 2004 Boxster S engine, but i think with my 2001 system it seems i'd need to redo some of the wiring, upgrade the computer, and replace the brake system also? Think i'm looking for something a little turnkey, but the low mileage and price (as well as bit of a power bump) were very attractive.

Oops - looks like my last response didn't post. I don't hate the idea of rebuilding, but also like the idea of being able to at least get this running so i can troubleshoot support systems, start doing cosmetic repairs, etc.

Saturday I can pull oil, drop the pan (and likely pull exhaust, possibly some of the transmission and rear axle bits).

The engine i was looking at is higher mileage - seems low mile are hard to find. I'm also trying to keep this somewhat under control. The chassis is 144K miles - if i get a 100K mile engine that will last me 2 decades at 3K miles/year, that's a-okay with me.

I also saw a 2004 Boxster S Engine with super low miles, but from what i was reading I'd need to upgrade the computer, redo wiring, and additionally change out the ABS system? If it were more plug and play that would be the no brainer.

You will have wiring issues to deal with on an 04. If you go with an 03-04 you will want the dme & wiring harness. You need to stick to a 00-02 engine to keep it with a 7.2 DME and be plug & play so to speak.

Keep in mind....any yard/company is going to give you some kind of warranty but that warranty will require new gaskets/seals/etc and be installed by a "qualified person" some are more strict, some are less so. Just make sure to read the fine print.

Thanks - I was thinking about the warranty issues and was thinking maybe a local shop I know well might serve that role if i have issues and pay them to "troubleshoot."

I guess depending on effort to use an 04, it could be worth it given price & mileage.

Small bump - still looking for a motor. The low mileage on the 3.2 is tempting - would welcome any input people have on a 2004 3.2 swap into a 2001. Harness would be included with donor - could probably get computer too (although suspect reflashing may be easier). Would i need to change the anti-lock brake system for cruise to function?

You can't do a reflash. DME pinouts are different. You have to have the dme, wire harness, key head & immobilizer, plus the engine.

I just sold my 2001 Boxster 'S' engine that I rebuilt in 2003 with all LN engineering parts for $14,000

Okay - update time:

First, I did drain oil, coolant.

Coolant: Looked good. I did not fully level car (but used jack stands at lowest setting). I did have a little spillage but think I ended a bit under 5 gallons, so likely a bit up front still. When engine is out fully I'll tip up the front end (or try to).

Oil: Oil looked newer, but also had bits of metal in the oil & filter. With engine not turning over, i'm on the replace train at full speed.


With that said, I had a few hours today to spend prepping for the drop.

My equipment:

- 3 Ton harbor freight low profile jack (max lift 20") - using a 1" rubber puck on top
- Low profile Dolly
- 2 ton engine hoist


My thought is that at the current height I can use the hoist/jack to slowly lower down onto the dolly. From there, I will connect the engine hoist to the chassis (motor mount or elsewhere). Is the 24" of clearance at the rear? or is that assuming the car is level, 2' off the ground? I've got the front tires still on, and jacked up from the rear under one of the control arms (where plate/crossmember meet - the aluminum bar plate). That's at 20", rear is certainly a bit higher, but i think i'm not far off.

I got everything disconnected based on the pelican article - connections up top, took AC compressor off, Fuel, power steering, coolant from below, and engine harness connections in trunk.

Given the grime on the tranny, it's coming down also. Whether I do that separately or with the engine is still up for debate so I'd welcome input of others. It almost looks like maybe the RMS was dumping oil (or no one ever bothered to clean the underside of the car).


One casualty: I couldn't get to the dipstick connector, and while trying to twist slightly so i could hit release button it snapped. Guess I'll be either rubber banding with a bit of hose and clamps, or replacing is TBD, but at least it'll be fairly easy to "correct" later. Pulled it out from the trunk while i was at it.

I also noticed the underside of the drivers seat seems a bit "broken" - think i'll need to epoxy the plate that connectors snap into as it was loose, but the foam itself seemed to be split. Once i pull leather off I'll maybe have to take it to an upholstery shop to have the cushion rebuilt.

Still trying to find an engine. Think i found one but it is higher mileage (130K). I'm seeing 100K mileage for double the price at 3K, which seems like quite a steep increase. with my intended few K/yr usage, even 130K should last a while. I'm thinking I can either rebuild or sell the stock motor and plan on a larger/rebuilt engine eventually. If anyone has any leads on an engine please feel free to PM me. Sticking to 2000-2002 for now to make this as plug and play as possible.

I welcome any advice, kind words, or mocking of my terrible decision making.

A few photos:
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...274ff9e118.jpg
Messy garage with some stereo equipment and steelies for the truck (still need winter tires). Shop computer. Peripherals below are for greasy/gloved hands, and when clean i am forced to use the touchpad/laptop keyboard.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...0768b743f4.jpg
Helper, carefully overseeing work.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...a8f0a9d6de.jpg
Cleaned out trunk a bit. Thankfully the lost interior fasteners were under the carpet.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...27c7b172d1.jpg
Top all disconnected
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...985d10cb22.jpg
Interior - definitely needs a good cleaning, and seats need to be rebuilt.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...e432a8be28.jpg
Underside near tranny - gross.

Just the engine or the car for that? Unfortunately that's quite a bit more than I have to spend currently on the engine, but isn't out of the realm for something in the future (but would want more power than 3.2 at that point - i have no doubt you can spend it but that can get you a used 3.4 engine and then quite a bit of money to maintain it).

He never said it was stock displacement.

Totally fair. You could easily spend that having the stock 2.7 or 3.2 motor rebuilt it seems, but I'd rather do something more power at that point.

If you have sentimental value for the car or it's in fantastic shape otherwise I get why you might rebuild the low powered stock ones, just not something I'd do in my situation with the roller I got.

How much metal in the oil through is the big question. I would take a magnet on a telescoping rod and just stick it in the oil drain pain, move it around to get as much metal out of it that you can and see how much was in there. I am thinking that entire engine isn't going to rebuildable.

Make sure you have the car up at least 20" Get the rear bumper removed & the exhaust. It will help.

Thanks, I'm assuming it will not be rebuildable too. Will pull it apart a bit more once out.

Either way I think a donor engine will help me keep this moving instead of stalling out hah.

I have 20" at the skid plate so rear will be higher. That paired with a hoist to get the rear up a tiny bit more should hopefully be smooth sailing.

Now I need to find bolts to steal for the hoist leveler.

Small update -


I work dumb hours part of the year, but have returned attention to this (spring steelhead season, getting the sailboat in the water & set up, etc. definitely played a factor).

Progress:

engine out, tranny out, exhaust out, bumper off, interior removed (well carpet, seats). By far the worst part was the exhaust 3 bolt flanges just past the headers. Dear god... hours of me trying to wrench, eventually breaking every nut off, heat, pounding, heat, etc.

I have the replacement engine, and have ordered everything i intend to. RMS, AOS, intake gaskets, cam tensioners, vac lines, clutch, plugs, water pump (went with a poly impeller aftermarket gates).

Replacement engine was stripped so will have to move a bunch over, and also clean. 91K miles, so no spring chicken but hopefully will do the trick. The yard also screwed up one of the corners of the engine where the tranny bellhousing lines up. I have the bit they snapped - they suggested jb weld but think that won't hold up to vibrations so maybe it can be welded.

Spring in June, and steelhead, you must be in BC. Good project. Keep sharing when you have time!

Ha i wish - great lakes. I know some don't consider them steelhead, but i promise a 3 year old 9lb hen is still a hell of a lot of fun to bring in.