Would a Boxster be a good first car?
01-29-2019, 04:12 PM
#16
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This may be helpful:
Here’s some info from the forum PistonHeads about the IMS,
987.1 Boxster:
MY2005 2.7 IMS risk (low)
MY2005 3.2 IMS risk (low)
MY2006- 2.7 No major risks
MY2006 3.2 Possible low IMS risk, IMS specification unconfirmed
MY2007- 3.4 Bore score risk (moderate or high – apparent lower incidence versus Cayman probably reflects production numbers rather than lower failure rate)
Here’s some info from the forum PistonHeads about the IMS,
987.1 Boxster:
MY2005 2.7 IMS risk (low)
MY2005 3.2 IMS risk (low)
MY2006- 2.7 No major risks
MY2006 3.2 Possible low IMS risk, IMS specification unconfirmed
MY2007- 3.4 Bore score risk (moderate or high – apparent lower incidence versus Cayman probably reflects production numbers rather than lower failure rate)
01-29-2019, 04:54 PM
#17
A Porsche for a 16 year old? (((WOW))) When I turned 16 I drove whatever didn't have grass growing up through the rusted floor board. Ol' Ford truck with three on the tree! Oh yea, great times!
01-29-2019, 09:24 PM
#18
I won't comment on whether or not you should since I don't know you or your son. But I definitely will say make sure it's fitted with PSM (I think it became standard starting with the 987s but it was definitely optional on the 986s). I'd never driven a car without traction/stability control before my Boxster and I can attest that driving in the wet has the potential to end very badly if he's not careful.
Funnily enough my Boxster was actually cheaper to insure than my last car (a crappy 06 Chrysler Sebring)
Funnily enough my Boxster was actually cheaper to insure than my last car (a crappy 06 Chrysler Sebring)
01-30-2019, 08:34 AM
#19
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my first car was a 73 VW bug without a/c in Texas, that I paid for myself. 
as to the original question...yea, it's just a used car. approach with caution as with any other. it will be likely more maintenance intensive than any honda or toyota and more expensive too; if your son is a "car guy" and likes to get his hands dirty turning wrenches, then maybe it's a good choice
as to the original question...yea, it's just a used car. approach with caution as with any other. it will be likely more maintenance intensive than any honda or toyota and more expensive too; if your son is a "car guy" and likes to get his hands dirty turning wrenches, then maybe it's a good choice
01-30-2019, 05:14 PM
#20
Yeah, I'm one of those guys that doesn't approve of a Boxster for a first car. Newbie drivers have enough to tax their concentration without having a sporty, powerful little car.
I gave a niece an OLD Prius last spring for her graduation present. An 03 is a surprising little car, safe (side air bags,) comfortable, fast enough for hills and freeways. And it doesn't look like a modern Prius and gets an easy 40 mpg. She loves it! I have one just like it, and have had it on long trips. Not being tied to going from gas station to gas station is a luxury!
A Porsche would be a nice college graduation gift.
I gave a niece an OLD Prius last spring for her graduation present. An 03 is a surprising little car, safe (side air bags,) comfortable, fast enough for hills and freeways. And it doesn't look like a modern Prius and gets an easy 40 mpg. She loves it! I have one just like it, and have had it on long trips. Not being tied to going from gas station to gas station is a luxury!
A Porsche would be a nice college graduation gift.
01-31-2019, 06:34 AM
#22
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Generally speaking newer is better so look for the best example of the latest model lowest miles Boxster you can find and afford. To avoid the risk of an IMSB failure get a 2009 or 2010 example. The engines are of a different design that did away with the IMS and its bearing.
Stay away from any cars with stories. Stay away from mod'd cars. Tracked cars. Ideally the car should come with a good service history.
The Boxster is just a used car and what follows is something I put together on how to check out a used Boxster...
Used Boxster Checkout:
The Boxster is just a used car so you should inspect/check everything.
My general advice is to visit the car cold. If you can check the engine oil level with the engine cold then do so. (With my Boxster I could. With my Turbo the engine had to be running and up to temperature.) In the car start the engine. Be sure all warning lights come on and then go off once the engine has started. Pay particular attention to the CEL. Be sure the A/C is off. You test the A/C later.
Let the engine idle from cold. You want to listen for any signs of ticking/noises or any other signs the engine may not be healthy. A rough idle, backfires, spitting back, anything out of the ordinary.
Get out of the car and walk around the car checking body panel finish, alignment, and gaps. Note the condition of the wheels, looking for any curb rash. Check the tires.
Check the hood and trunk hinges for any signs the fasteners have had wrenches on them. Check the bolts that hold the front fenders to the car for any signs they have had a wrench on them.
Headlights and condensers — visible by getting down and peering inside the radiator ducts using a bright flash light — should have the same patina. A new headlight or new condenser could be a sign of accident damage repair.
If you spot trash in the radiator ducts budget to have the bumper cover removed and the trash cleaned out. It won’t affect cooling but can retain moisture which can lead to A/C condenser or radiator leaks due to corrosion.
Check the brake rotors for any signs of overheating, heavy scoring, cracking. If the lip around the outer edge of the rotor is about 1mm tall that’s a sign the rotor is about worn out and budget for at least an axle’s worth of brake job. Pads. Rotors. Other hardware, A brake (and if manual clutch) fluid flush and bleed.
Tires should be in reasonable condition, factory sanctioned — N numbered — and all the same brand, model of tire with the same N number.
After some few minutes of the engine idling -- the longer the better -- and with the engine still running ok and sounding ok have the seller take you on a test ride. The route should be around 15 miles long and chosen to give the driver a chance to demo the car as you intend to use it. What is wanted is a mix of city driving with stop and go, steady moderate speed cruising on like a boulevard, and some highway/freeway driving. Ideally there should be some opportunities -- once the engine is up to temperature -- for some rather hard acceleration with the driver starting out from a standstill or a slow roll and accelerating hard up through at least a couple of gears. No need to smoke the tires or try to duplicate the factory's 0 to 60mph time but you want to experience the engine under hard acceleration to verify it pulls good, runs right, and afterwards shows no ill effects from the hard acceleration.
As passenger of course pay attention to how the transmission shifts, how the car rides, feels. The car should not want to pull to one side or the other and the hard acceleration should give the driver a chance to perform a hard braking. No tire lock up but you want to verify the brakes have plenty of bite and the car tracks straight under hard braking.
After the 15 mile test ride then back at the starting point -- leaving the engine running -- get behind the wheel and drive the car over the same 15 mile test route and drive it pretty much the same way although since the car is unknown to you you can dial back on the hard acceleration test. You don't want to let the car get away from you and wrap it around a telephone pole.
Before you shut off the engine after the 15 mile test ride and 15 mile test drive it is not a bad idea to check if the readiness monitors are all set to complete. I have an OBD2 code reader/data viewer/logger than I can use to connect to the car and confirm all readiness monitor are set to complete. These being set to complete is a good sign the engine and its sensors are healthy.
After your 15 mile test drive then at the starting point if you still like the car confirm all systems work. From the head lights to the tail lights. From the horn to the back up camera (if fitted). The A/C. Check all the controls. The wipers. Everything.
At this point if you still like the car and believe you can buy it for a good price -- based on your market research -- it is good idea to arrange to have the car given a pre-purchase inspection (PPI) by a tech who is qualified to evaluate the car. A Porsche dealer tech can be used. These guys evaluate trade ins all the time.
This gets the car in the air so a check can be made for any leak sign. At the same time a check can be made for any signs of damage or damage repair.
You want to really experience the car in its natural state: engine running and on the road. All cars look good on the dealer’s lot. But it is how they look and run and feel and sound and smell on the road, or after being on the road, that really matters.
Be aware and adjust your price accordingly that the car probably needs some attention: Brake fluid flush/bleed is due every 2 years. engine oil/filter might be due. Tires at least rear ones with 15K miles could be close to needing replacement. I could get 20K miles out of a set of rear tires on both my Boxster and Turbo.
Remember these things: Price is not fact only an opinion. And there is always another car. If you find something negative about this car don't feel you have to buy it. There is another car out there you'll like just as much if not more than this one and it won't have any negatives.
Stay away from any cars with stories. Stay away from mod'd cars. Tracked cars. Ideally the car should come with a good service history.
The Boxster is just a used car and what follows is something I put together on how to check out a used Boxster...
Used Boxster Checkout:
The Boxster is just a used car so you should inspect/check everything.
My general advice is to visit the car cold. If you can check the engine oil level with the engine cold then do so. (With my Boxster I could. With my Turbo the engine had to be running and up to temperature.) In the car start the engine. Be sure all warning lights come on and then go off once the engine has started. Pay particular attention to the CEL. Be sure the A/C is off. You test the A/C later.
Let the engine idle from cold. You want to listen for any signs of ticking/noises or any other signs the engine may not be healthy. A rough idle, backfires, spitting back, anything out of the ordinary.
Get out of the car and walk around the car checking body panel finish, alignment, and gaps. Note the condition of the wheels, looking for any curb rash. Check the tires.
Check the hood and trunk hinges for any signs the fasteners have had wrenches on them. Check the bolts that hold the front fenders to the car for any signs they have had a wrench on them.
Headlights and condensers — visible by getting down and peering inside the radiator ducts using a bright flash light — should have the same patina. A new headlight or new condenser could be a sign of accident damage repair.
If you spot trash in the radiator ducts budget to have the bumper cover removed and the trash cleaned out. It won’t affect cooling but can retain moisture which can lead to A/C condenser or radiator leaks due to corrosion.
Check the brake rotors for any signs of overheating, heavy scoring, cracking. If the lip around the outer edge of the rotor is about 1mm tall that’s a sign the rotor is about worn out and budget for at least an axle’s worth of brake job. Pads. Rotors. Other hardware, A brake (and if manual clutch) fluid flush and bleed.
Tires should be in reasonable condition, factory sanctioned — N numbered — and all the same brand, model of tire with the same N number.
After some few minutes of the engine idling -- the longer the better -- and with the engine still running ok and sounding ok have the seller take you on a test ride. The route should be around 15 miles long and chosen to give the driver a chance to demo the car as you intend to use it. What is wanted is a mix of city driving with stop and go, steady moderate speed cruising on like a boulevard, and some highway/freeway driving. Ideally there should be some opportunities -- once the engine is up to temperature -- for some rather hard acceleration with the driver starting out from a standstill or a slow roll and accelerating hard up through at least a couple of gears. No need to smoke the tires or try to duplicate the factory's 0 to 60mph time but you want to experience the engine under hard acceleration to verify it pulls good, runs right, and afterwards shows no ill effects from the hard acceleration.
As passenger of course pay attention to how the transmission shifts, how the car rides, feels. The car should not want to pull to one side or the other and the hard acceleration should give the driver a chance to perform a hard braking. No tire lock up but you want to verify the brakes have plenty of bite and the car tracks straight under hard braking.
After the 15 mile test ride then back at the starting point -- leaving the engine running -- get behind the wheel and drive the car over the same 15 mile test route and drive it pretty much the same way although since the car is unknown to you you can dial back on the hard acceleration test. You don't want to let the car get away from you and wrap it around a telephone pole.
Before you shut off the engine after the 15 mile test ride and 15 mile test drive it is not a bad idea to check if the readiness monitors are all set to complete. I have an OBD2 code reader/data viewer/logger than I can use to connect to the car and confirm all readiness monitor are set to complete. These being set to complete is a good sign the engine and its sensors are healthy.
After your 15 mile test drive then at the starting point if you still like the car confirm all systems work. From the head lights to the tail lights. From the horn to the back up camera (if fitted). The A/C. Check all the controls. The wipers. Everything.
At this point if you still like the car and believe you can buy it for a good price -- based on your market research -- it is good idea to arrange to have the car given a pre-purchase inspection (PPI) by a tech who is qualified to evaluate the car. A Porsche dealer tech can be used. These guys evaluate trade ins all the time.
This gets the car in the air so a check can be made for any leak sign. At the same time a check can be made for any signs of damage or damage repair.
You want to really experience the car in its natural state: engine running and on the road. All cars look good on the dealer’s lot. But it is how they look and run and feel and sound and smell on the road, or after being on the road, that really matters.
Be aware and adjust your price accordingly that the car probably needs some attention: Brake fluid flush/bleed is due every 2 years. engine oil/filter might be due. Tires at least rear ones with 15K miles could be close to needing replacement. I could get 20K miles out of a set of rear tires on both my Boxster and Turbo.
Remember these things: Price is not fact only an opinion. And there is always another car. If you find something negative about this car don't feel you have to buy it. There is another car out there you'll like just as much if not more than this one and it won't have any negatives.
This is some great feedback, thank you
01-31-2019, 07:00 AM
#23
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If the kid is mature, I’d argue he may be be just fine in a Boxster. I’d put him through the Skip Barber driving school or similar program regardless of the car chosen. My 986 Boxster has been bullet proof, including thousands of miles on track at Sebring Raceway, a track known to tear apart cars. It has 90k miles, and the engine runs as good as the day I bought the car. I did have the IMS addressed a few thousand miles ago. One single anecdote doesn’t prove anything, so if budget permits get a newer one with the 9A1 engine.
01-31-2019, 09:11 PM
#24
If the kid is mature, I’d argue he may be be just fine in a Boxster. I’d put him through the Skip Barber driving school or similar program regardless of the car chosen. My 986 Boxster has been bullet proof, including thousands of miles on track at Sebring Raceway, a track known to tear apart cars. It has 90k miles, and the engine runs as good as the day I bought the car. I did have the IMS addressed a few thousand miles ago. One single anecdote doesn’t prove anything, so if budget permits get a newer one with the 9A1 engine.
01-31-2019, 09:46 PM
#25
Burning Brakes
I had 2 sons. First son got a grandma's Ford sedan. A tank. No accidents. Second son got a Honda Civic. He once told me I was really good at getting the "dad, I've been in an accident" calls. Both were responsible, both had lots of time driving with me coaching even after formal driver training. Both were beyond excellent students and neither was in any way a fast or dangerous driver.
I crashed a Boxster. I mentally thought $3-4k. The body shop stopped counting at $26k. Totaled.
Get him a solid easily repaired car and in 2 years upgrade him depending on his record.
I crashed a Boxster. I mentally thought $3-4k. The body shop stopped counting at $26k. Totaled.
Get him a solid easily repaired car and in 2 years upgrade him depending on his record.
02-03-2019, 03:44 PM
#26
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Last year I purchased a 986S as a third car that my then 16-year-old and I can work on together and drive in autocross and DE's. Like you I also insisted that the car being had a manual transmission, which in our 986 with the lack of cupholders also means that he cannot text nor eat/drink and drive. However, it is not a DD for him as I remember too well how I was at 16. 
, he can earn that right. For us, it has been a great bonding experience and he has gained great driving experience that has allowed him to responsibly satisfy his "need for speed". An unexpected side benefit has been the way the local PCA & BMW-CCA have taken him under their wing and that has allowed him to interact with the adult members as a peer. If you are both inclined and interested in working on the car together, I would recommend an older (cheaper) 986 with the IMS fixed and then plan on a proactive maintenance plan to begin replacing parts that wear out over time such as the water pump and AOS. We selected the 986 as you can find them for not a lot of money, you can relatively easily work on the car, while sporty, it's not overly powerful and its a joy to drive. I would also recommend a good teen driving course, BMW sponsors one here in Chicago, and time autocrossing so he learns how to properly handle the car. Good luck!
, he can earn that right. For us, it has been a great bonding experience and he has gained great driving experience that has allowed him to responsibly satisfy his "need for speed". An unexpected side benefit has been the way the local PCA & BMW-CCA have taken him under their wing and that has allowed him to interact with the adult members as a peer. If you are both inclined and interested in working on the car together, I would recommend an older (cheaper) 986 with the IMS fixed and then plan on a proactive maintenance plan to begin replacing parts that wear out over time such as the water pump and AOS. We selected the 986 as you can find them for not a lot of money, you can relatively easily work on the car, while sporty, it's not overly powerful and its a joy to drive. I would also recommend a good teen driving course, BMW sponsors one here in Chicago, and time autocrossing so he learns how to properly handle the car. Good luck!
02-15-2019, 12:57 AM
#27
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We bought our boys (twins) a basic Volkswagon Jetta with a 1.4 turbo charged engine with a manual transmission for 15k each, with air bags, apple play, and they are pretty safe cars.
The boxster (2002) is their track car.
Regards Pranqster
The boxster (2002) is their track car.
Regards Pranqster
02-15-2019, 12:41 PM
#28
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02-15-2019, 01:08 PM
#29
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02-16-2019, 11:24 PM
#30
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Absolutely not. If you want him to drive a manual, that's fine. But a Porsche as a first car for a 16 year old? No. Lots of reasons - but his safety is #1 on the list. He would have a ball with a used Mazda Miata if you feel he would not drive it like a hooligan. They are relatively inexpensive, extremely reliable, and many say more fun than a Boxster because you feel like you're going faster than you really are. You know - more fun to drive a "slow" car fast than a fast car slow. And the Miata isn't slow. It's great fun.
Otherwise, get him a used Mazda 3 with a manual transmission. Very reliable, fun to drive, and practical.
Just sayin'
Doug
Otherwise, get him a used Mazda 3 with a manual transmission. Very reliable, fun to drive, and practical.
Just sayin'
Doug