Would a Boxster be a good first car?
01-29-2019, 06:21 AM
#1
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Would a Boxster be a good first car?
So my son is now 15 and I have been car shopping for him for his 16th birthday which is coming up in December. I have kind of narrowed down my search to getting him a 2005-2010 Boxster or Boxster S. It has to me a manual transmission because I want him to be able to drive my other cars as well and they are all manual. I have seen mileage and prices all over the board from $6k to $25k and 10k to 150k miles. What should I look for and what should I stay away from? Any specific years that are better than others? Any specific packages that are better or more reliable? Do these suffer from the 911 IMS failure?
Thanks,
Thanks,
01-29-2019, 08:46 AM
#4
Top up visibility is not the greatest - a new driver, IMHO, needs to be able to see as much as possible.
01-29-2019, 09:30 AM
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I understand the comments have focused on whether the car is acceptable for my 16 year okd son and I was more focused on issues to look for in a specific year or engine or model to avoid...etc
01-29-2019, 10:57 AM
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;tldr - if you are not concerned with cost of incidental damage, maintenance, potential risky behavior, little practicality, and are convinced your son is mature enough - go for it. The 987 Boxsters are very likely a much better choice than the 986 Boxsters from a safety, reliability and daily driver perspective. I can't comment on specifics about year/trim etc. though.
I think this ends up being a "Well that all depends..." kind of question/answer.
This reminds me of people thinking about buying their first motorcycle and asking the question "Is a (insert fast 600cc+ sport bike here) a good first bike?".
Well that all depends.
From a safety standpoint - the more powerful and sporty a vehicle you have, the more potential there is for risky behavior and dangerous conditions. There is no reason anyone could not safely drive a very fast car or very fast motorcycle safely, just follow the rules of the road, and you'll be fine. But I know, the younger I was, and most importantly, the less experienced I was, the more likely I was to want to 'experiment' with what my car, or motorcycle, was capable of. Fortunately I never had any accidents or tickets, but, with a fast vehicle it's much easier to get in over your head with too much speed, in a situation where you are too inexperienced to understand what might happen next, and how to deal with it, and end up stuffing your nice car and body, into a ditch, at best.
I'm guessing you feel confident with your son's level of maturity, and you think he will be responsible with a sports car, and that very well may be true, but I'd certainly make sure you consider that, several times :P
But about ownership - I'm a Porsche newbie (so don't listen to me), but it seems like the 987 Boxster is likely a 'better' car than the 986 Boxster, from a safety perspective - with more driver aids, like stability control/traction control and whatnot. It's likely more than reliable enough for someone who doesn't need Toyota Camry level of reliability, and can rely on his friends to give him a ride if something goes wrong :P but good luck finding a qualified mechanic in a desperate situation to fix some esoteric Porsche problem.
When things break, or minor fender benders, dents, careless/inexperience related damage occur, as I'm sure you know, it's certainly going to cost a lot more to address than a (insert other cheap, reliable, popular, Japanese economy car here), and you're likely going to be more upset about door dings and whatnot.
If I was in the market for a sporty car for a kid, I'd probably go for a Civic Si Sedan (2006-2011). Cheap, peppy and fun with that sports car appeal (high revving engine), only made with 6 speed manual transmissions, enough room to seat 4 - and spare parts are plentiful and dirt cheap compared to Porsche.
Would a Boxster be a good first car?
This reminds me of people thinking about buying their first motorcycle and asking the question "Is a (insert fast 600cc+ sport bike here) a good first bike?".
Well that all depends.
From a safety standpoint - the more powerful and sporty a vehicle you have, the more potential there is for risky behavior and dangerous conditions. There is no reason anyone could not safely drive a very fast car or very fast motorcycle safely, just follow the rules of the road, and you'll be fine. But I know, the younger I was, and most importantly, the less experienced I was, the more likely I was to want to 'experiment' with what my car, or motorcycle, was capable of. Fortunately I never had any accidents or tickets, but, with a fast vehicle it's much easier to get in over your head with too much speed, in a situation where you are too inexperienced to understand what might happen next, and how to deal with it, and end up stuffing your nice car and body, into a ditch, at best.
I'm guessing you feel confident with your son's level of maturity, and you think he will be responsible with a sports car, and that very well may be true, but I'd certainly make sure you consider that, several times :P
But about ownership - I'm a Porsche newbie (so don't listen to me), but it seems like the 987 Boxster is likely a 'better' car than the 986 Boxster, from a safety perspective - with more driver aids, like stability control/traction control and whatnot. It's likely more than reliable enough for someone who doesn't need Toyota Camry level of reliability, and can rely on his friends to give him a ride if something goes wrong :P but good luck finding a qualified mechanic in a desperate situation to fix some esoteric Porsche problem.
When things break, or minor fender benders, dents, careless/inexperience related damage occur, as I'm sure you know, it's certainly going to cost a lot more to address than a (insert other cheap, reliable, popular, Japanese economy car here), and you're likely going to be more upset about door dings and whatnot.
If I was in the market for a sporty car for a kid, I'd probably go for a Civic Si Sedan (2006-2011). Cheap, peppy and fun with that sports car appeal (high revving engine), only made with 6 speed manual transmissions, enough room to seat 4 - and spare parts are plentiful and dirt cheap compared to Porsche.
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01-29-2019, 11:55 AM
#9
Race Director
Generally speaking newer is better so look for the best example of the latest model lowest miles Boxster you can find and afford. To avoid the risk of an IMSB failure get a 2009 or 2010 example. The engines are of a different design that did away with the IMS and its bearing.
Stay away from any cars with stories. Stay away from mod'd cars. Tracked cars. Ideally the car should come with a good service history.
The Boxster is just a used car and what follows is something I put together on how to check out a used Boxster...
Used Boxster Checkout:
The Boxster is just a used car so you should inspect/check everything.
My general advice is to visit the car cold. If you can check the engine oil level with the engine cold then do so. (With my Boxster I could. With my Turbo the engine had to be running and up to temperature.) In the car start the engine. Be sure all warning lights come on and then go off once the engine has started. Pay particular attention to the CEL. Be sure the A/C is off. You test the A/C later.
Let the engine idle from cold. You want to listen for any signs of ticking/noises or any other signs the engine may not be healthy. A rough idle, backfires, spitting back, anything out of the ordinary.
Get out of the car and walk around the car checking body panel finish, alignment, and gaps. Note the condition of the wheels, looking for any curb rash. Check the tires.
Check the hood and trunk hinges for any signs the fasteners have had wrenches on them. Check the bolts that hold the front fenders to the car for any signs they have had a wrench on them.
Headlights and condensers — visible by getting down and peering inside the radiator ducts using a bright flash light — should have the same patina. A new headlight or new condenser could be a sign of accident damage repair.
If you spot trash in the radiator ducts budget to have the bumper cover removed and the trash cleaned out. It won’t affect cooling but can retain moisture which can lead to A/C condenser or radiator leaks due to corrosion.
Check the brake rotors for any signs of overheating, heavy scoring, cracking. If the lip around the outer edge of the rotor is about 1mm tall that’s a sign the rotor is about worn out and budget for at least an axle’s worth of brake job. Pads. Rotors. Other hardware, A brake (and if manual clutch) fluid flush and bleed.
Tires should be in reasonable condition, factory sanctioned — N numbered — and all the same brand, model of tire with the same N number.
After some few minutes of the engine idling -- the longer the better -- and with the engine still running ok and sounding ok have the seller take you on a test ride. The route should be around 15 miles long and chosen to give the driver a chance to demo the car as you intend to use it. What is wanted is a mix of city driving with stop and go, steady moderate speed cruising on like a boulevard, and some highway/freeway driving. Ideally there should be some opportunities -- once the engine is up to temperature -- for some rather hard acceleration with the driver starting out from a standstill or a slow roll and accelerating hard up through at least a couple of gears. No need to smoke the tires or try to duplicate the factory's 0 to 60mph time but you want to experience the engine under hard acceleration to verify it pulls good, runs right, and afterwards shows no ill effects from the hard acceleration.
As passenger of course pay attention to how the transmission shifts, how the car rides, feels. The car should not want to pull to one side or the other and the hard acceleration should give the driver a chance to perform a hard braking. No tire lock up but you want to verify the brakes have plenty of bite and the car tracks straight under hard braking.
After the 15 mile test ride then back at the starting point -- leaving the engine running -- get behind the wheel and drive the car over the same 15 mile test route and drive it pretty much the same way although since the car is unknown to you you can dial back on the hard acceleration test. You don't want to let the car get away from you and wrap it around a telephone pole.
Before you shut off the engine after the 15 mile test ride and 15 mile test drive it is not a bad idea to check if the readiness monitors are all set to complete. I have an OBD2 code reader/data viewer/logger than I can use to connect to the car and confirm all readiness monitor are set to complete. These being set to complete is a good sign the engine and its sensors are healthy.
After your 15 mile test drive then at the starting point if you still like the car confirm all systems work. From the head lights to the tail lights. From the horn to the back up camera (if fitted). The A/C. Check all the controls. The wipers. Everything.
At this point if you still like the car and believe you can buy it for a good price -- based on your market research -- it is good idea to arrange to have the car given a pre-purchase inspection (PPI) by a tech who is qualified to evaluate the car. A Porsche dealer tech can be used. These guys evaluate trade ins all the time.
This gets the car in the air so a check can be made for any leak sign. At the same time a check can be made for any signs of damage or damage repair.
You want to really experience the car in its natural state: engine running and on the road. All cars look good on the dealer’s lot. But it is how they look and run and feel and sound and smell on the road, or after being on the road, that really matters.
Be aware and adjust your price accordingly that the car probably needs some attention: Brake fluid flush/bleed is due every 2 years. engine oil/filter might be due. Tires at least rear ones with 15K miles could be close to needing replacement. I could get 20K miles out of a set of rear tires on both my Boxster and Turbo.
Remember these things: Price is not fact only an opinion. And there is always another car. If you find something negative about this car don't feel you have to buy it. There is another car out there you'll like just as much if not more than this one and it won't have any negatives.
Stay away from any cars with stories. Stay away from mod'd cars. Tracked cars. Ideally the car should come with a good service history.
The Boxster is just a used car and what follows is something I put together on how to check out a used Boxster...
Used Boxster Checkout:
The Boxster is just a used car so you should inspect/check everything.
My general advice is to visit the car cold. If you can check the engine oil level with the engine cold then do so. (With my Boxster I could. With my Turbo the engine had to be running and up to temperature.) In the car start the engine. Be sure all warning lights come on and then go off once the engine has started. Pay particular attention to the CEL. Be sure the A/C is off. You test the A/C later.
Let the engine idle from cold. You want to listen for any signs of ticking/noises or any other signs the engine may not be healthy. A rough idle, backfires, spitting back, anything out of the ordinary.
Get out of the car and walk around the car checking body panel finish, alignment, and gaps. Note the condition of the wheels, looking for any curb rash. Check the tires.
Check the hood and trunk hinges for any signs the fasteners have had wrenches on them. Check the bolts that hold the front fenders to the car for any signs they have had a wrench on them.
Headlights and condensers — visible by getting down and peering inside the radiator ducts using a bright flash light — should have the same patina. A new headlight or new condenser could be a sign of accident damage repair.
If you spot trash in the radiator ducts budget to have the bumper cover removed and the trash cleaned out. It won’t affect cooling but can retain moisture which can lead to A/C condenser or radiator leaks due to corrosion.
Check the brake rotors for any signs of overheating, heavy scoring, cracking. If the lip around the outer edge of the rotor is about 1mm tall that’s a sign the rotor is about worn out and budget for at least an axle’s worth of brake job. Pads. Rotors. Other hardware, A brake (and if manual clutch) fluid flush and bleed.
Tires should be in reasonable condition, factory sanctioned — N numbered — and all the same brand, model of tire with the same N number.
After some few minutes of the engine idling -- the longer the better -- and with the engine still running ok and sounding ok have the seller take you on a test ride. The route should be around 15 miles long and chosen to give the driver a chance to demo the car as you intend to use it. What is wanted is a mix of city driving with stop and go, steady moderate speed cruising on like a boulevard, and some highway/freeway driving. Ideally there should be some opportunities -- once the engine is up to temperature -- for some rather hard acceleration with the driver starting out from a standstill or a slow roll and accelerating hard up through at least a couple of gears. No need to smoke the tires or try to duplicate the factory's 0 to 60mph time but you want to experience the engine under hard acceleration to verify it pulls good, runs right, and afterwards shows no ill effects from the hard acceleration.
As passenger of course pay attention to how the transmission shifts, how the car rides, feels. The car should not want to pull to one side or the other and the hard acceleration should give the driver a chance to perform a hard braking. No tire lock up but you want to verify the brakes have plenty of bite and the car tracks straight under hard braking.
After the 15 mile test ride then back at the starting point -- leaving the engine running -- get behind the wheel and drive the car over the same 15 mile test route and drive it pretty much the same way although since the car is unknown to you you can dial back on the hard acceleration test. You don't want to let the car get away from you and wrap it around a telephone pole.
Before you shut off the engine after the 15 mile test ride and 15 mile test drive it is not a bad idea to check if the readiness monitors are all set to complete. I have an OBD2 code reader/data viewer/logger than I can use to connect to the car and confirm all readiness monitor are set to complete. These being set to complete is a good sign the engine and its sensors are healthy.
After your 15 mile test drive then at the starting point if you still like the car confirm all systems work. From the head lights to the tail lights. From the horn to the back up camera (if fitted). The A/C. Check all the controls. The wipers. Everything.
At this point if you still like the car and believe you can buy it for a good price -- based on your market research -- it is good idea to arrange to have the car given a pre-purchase inspection (PPI) by a tech who is qualified to evaluate the car. A Porsche dealer tech can be used. These guys evaluate trade ins all the time.
This gets the car in the air so a check can be made for any leak sign. At the same time a check can be made for any signs of damage or damage repair.
You want to really experience the car in its natural state: engine running and on the road. All cars look good on the dealer’s lot. But it is how they look and run and feel and sound and smell on the road, or after being on the road, that really matters.
Be aware and adjust your price accordingly that the car probably needs some attention: Brake fluid flush/bleed is due every 2 years. engine oil/filter might be due. Tires at least rear ones with 15K miles could be close to needing replacement. I could get 20K miles out of a set of rear tires on both my Boxster and Turbo.
Remember these things: Price is not fact only an opinion. And there is always another car. If you find something negative about this car don't feel you have to buy it. There is another car out there you'll like just as much if not more than this one and it won't have any negatives.
01-29-2019, 02:26 PM
#10
The year range quoted includes 987.1 and 987.2. As Macster says 09 and later have the improved 9A1 engine. Early 987.1 Boxsters have the M96 engine. I believe these with the single row ims bearing have the highest failure rate. I can't recall the cut over timing for the M97.
Regardless of the car, I'd suggest training for the new driver. BMWCCA has a good program for teens. Some PCA regions also do car control courses. It's easy to think of a Porsche as too much car for a teenager but my nephew was ticketed for 100+mph in a Camry.
Regardless of the car, I'd suggest training for the new driver. BMWCCA has a good program for teens. Some PCA regions also do car control courses. It's easy to think of a Porsche as too much car for a teenager but my nephew was ticketed for 100+mph in a Camry.
01-29-2019, 02:42 PM
#11
Rennlist Member
A Porsche is not an appropriate for a first car for anyone, let alone a 15/16-yr-old for lots of reasons. There are learning curves for any car that can result in mistakes causing economical harm. Porsche mistakes cost a whole lot more.
Then there’s the safety issue of a high performance (fast) car. Mistakes here can result in physical harm due to speed. Then there’s the safety issue of a small convertible. If this is a new 2018/2019 model, it’s better. But if an old car, then much worse.
Then there’s the safety issue of a high performance (fast) car. Mistakes here can result in physical harm due to speed. Then there’s the safety issue of a small convertible. If this is a new 2018/2019 model, it’s better. But if an old car, then much worse.
01-29-2019, 02:58 PM
#12
Race Director
yeah, not a good idea. potential expensive engine issues, potential for showing off, etc.
My advice is find the cleanest E46 330i with a 6 speed you can find. Good looking, cheap to repair, very reliable, and super enjoyable to drive.
My advice is find the cleanest E46 330i with a 6 speed you can find. Good looking, cheap to repair, very reliable, and super enjoyable to drive.
01-29-2019, 03:10 PM
#14
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My first car was a 68 Mustang GT 289 V8. Not the safest car in the world in the hands of a 16 year old. I was careful, conscientious and relatively law abiding. My father knew this and supported my purchase of this car. I assume that the OP knows this about his son as well. He is asking about specifics regarding the safety, reliability and pricing of a Boxster.
I think the 2005 S would be a great first car. Great values can be had at this vintage. Many of these are 3rd cars that are not driven regularly and some have deferred maintenance. Very low mileage cars with higher prices should be scrutinized extra carefully as these cars really need to be driven to keep the mechanicals fresh. Personally, I think mid-level mileage cars would be best, those with complete service records. Make sure to find a reliable independent mechanic in your area for a pre-purchase inspection and for future maintenance needs. If you and/or your son has interest in maintaining his own vehicle the Boxster is a great choice. Forums like this one, 986forum, PelicanParts and Youtube have hundreds of easy to follow articles and videos.
It might help to let us know what other cars you and your son are considering. This is a very knowledgeable group and as you can see are happy to help!
I think the 2005 S would be a great first car. Great values can be had at this vintage. Many of these are 3rd cars that are not driven regularly and some have deferred maintenance. Very low mileage cars with higher prices should be scrutinized extra carefully as these cars really need to be driven to keep the mechanicals fresh. Personally, I think mid-level mileage cars would be best, those with complete service records. Make sure to find a reliable independent mechanic in your area for a pre-purchase inspection and for future maintenance needs. If you and/or your son has interest in maintaining his own vehicle the Boxster is a great choice. Forums like this one, 986forum, PelicanParts and Youtube have hundreds of easy to follow articles and videos.
It might help to let us know what other cars you and your son are considering. This is a very knowledgeable group and as you can see are happy to help!
01-29-2019, 03:49 PM
#15
Rennlist Member
I bought my daughter a well-used '01 Boxster as her first car. It's just a car. It's not particularly powerful, but it handles well and it's fun. I feel like this encourages attentive driving, as opposed to something numbing like a minivan or SUV. Maintenance isn't hard (kind of fun, actually), parts aren't cheap, but they're not insane.
Go for it.
Go for it.
