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986 IMS project

Old 12-31-2018, 12:21 AM
  #16  
Ken P
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Rob, how is the project going?
I've got my car back together and it seems to be running fine. My camshaft deviations have improved significantly, though my bank one deviations are still in the -4 to -5 range.
My only potential issue right now is the coolant, the car is running about 180 deg and I have only put in about 2 gallons of antifreeze, I thought it would take some more. Maybe I had more than I thought left in the front radiators.

Last edited by Ken P; 12-31-2018 at 12:36 AM. Reason: correction
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Old 12-31-2018, 01:50 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Ken P View Post
Rob, how is the project going?
I've got my car back together and it seems to be running fine. My camshaft deviations have improved significantly, though my bank one deviations are still in the -4 to -5 range.
My only potential issue right now is the coolant, the car is running about 180 deg and I have only put in about 2 gallons of antifreeze, I thought it would take some more. Maybe I had more than I thought left in the front radiators.
I just had my coolant flushed with my expansion tank replacement. It took a total of 6 gallons for me on my 996. The hardest part is flushing out the coolant in the heater core and front radiators. We used an airlift system and all is fine. Your cam deviations are getting to the Porsche threshold of 6 degrees. Glad to hear the IMS bearing when in okay.
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Old 12-31-2018, 11:33 AM
  #18  
Charles Navarro
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Did you drain all the coolant first and use an air-lift?

Cam timing deviation is an issue. Typically we fail a pre-qual at 4 degrees for what it is worth.
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Old 12-31-2018, 11:45 AM
  #19  
elgy
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Originally Posted by Ken P View Post
... My only potential issue right now is the coolant, the car is running about 180 deg and I have only put in about 2 gallons of antifreeze, I thought it would take some more. Maybe I had more than I thought left in the front radiators.
Many say that the airlift system is the way to go. My Blue Boxster supposedly had an overheating problem when I bought it. I filled the coolant tank and opened the bleed valve (which is on the top of the coolant tank under the plastic cover), drove home, refilled the tank then drove a couple of days with the bleeder open, as I saw mentioned somewhere. The engine never went past the mid-point on the gauge either with the bleeder open or after I closed it. This was in quite mild fall weather. Only my experience...
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Old 12-31-2018, 01:26 PM
  #20  
Ken P
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Did you drain all the coolant first and use an air-lift?
I probably did not get all of the coolant out. I did not use an air-lift to fill, I am assuming that is the vacuum fill adapter?

Cam timing deviation is an issue
It is better than it was. I bought this car to play with and learn about. The cam deviation had been -10.83 and after new vario-cam wear pads and chains it came down to -5 on bank one. I am not sure what else could be causing the cam deviation, the cam tabs looked fine. Measured with a Durametric.

The hardest part is flushing out the coolant in the heater core and front radiators.
The car was sitting a little nose low, so the front radiators were probably not fully drained.

I filled the coolant tank and opened the bleed valve
I did this also. I went through the high idle and revving the engine procedure. I may leave the bleed valve open and drive a day or two. I still have the old coolant sitting in a large bucket. I will probably go measure how much came out to see if I did not drain it all. I thought the capacity for a Boxster was 5.5 gallons.

The car is not overheating, the temp gauge gets just above the 180 mark. The air is warm at the front corners and at the heater.
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Old 12-31-2018, 01:36 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Ken P View Post
I probably did not get all of the coolant out. I did not use an air-lift to fill, I am assuming that is the vacuum fill adapter?


It is better than it was. I bought this car to play with and learn about. The cam deviation had been -10.83 and after new vario-cam wear pads and chains it came down to -5 on bank one. I am not sure what else could be causing the cam deviation, the cam tabs looked fine. Measured with a Durametric.


The car was sitting a little nose low, so the front radiators were probably not fully drained.


I did this also. I went through the high idle and revving the engine procedure. I may leave the bleed valve open and drive a day or two. I still have the old coolant sitting in a large bucket. I will probably go measure how much came out to see if I did not drain it all. I thought the capacity for a Boxster was 5.5 gallons.

The car is not overheating, the temp gauge gets just above the 180 mark. The air is warm at the front corners and at the heater.
I wouldn't run the engine until you drain the coolant and re-fill using the proper tools and procedures. An air pocket in the system can cause localized overheating and cause engine damage.
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Old 01-07-2019, 01:55 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Ken P View Post
Rob, how is the project going?
I've got my car back together and it seems to be running fine. My camshaft deviations have improved significantly, though my bank one deviations are still in the -4 to -5 range.
My only potential issue right now is the coolant, the car is running about 180 deg and I have only put in about 2 gallons of antifreeze, I thought it would take some more. Maybe I had more than I thought left in the front radiators.
Hello Ken: My next step is to lock the cams and pull the IMS bearing. Ordered a tool kit this morning. I found the clutch and flywheel to be dust free, everything was paste from oil mix. Pressure plate and flywheel had been very hot at some point. I have a new RMS in hand as well, just need to make an installation tool. You mentioned replacing the front trans. seal. Had it been leaking or is this a preventative measure? And I'm curious what lube you'll be putting in. I've always leaned to Synthetic like RedLine but one of the Boxster Gurus suggested a high end petroleum product. Anyone else have experience to share?
Rob
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Old 01-07-2019, 02:28 PM
  #23  
Ken P
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Rob,
I was hoping to be able to reuse part of my clutch, but the clutch disk rivets had ground into both the pressure plate and flywheel, so I replace all 3 of those parts.

You mentioned replacing the front trans seal.
When I checked my trans fluid level, it was low. The guide tube at the front of the trans was a little caked with grime and the bell housing was full of gunk. It could have been coming from the trans, it was not obviously wet with gear oil though. So while I was there and the seal was not expensive, I replaced it.
For the gear oil, I was going to go with the Porsche stuff. I called my local dealer and they said that they just use Mobil One synthetic. That is what they order for the service department in bulk. They did have one liter of the Porsche stuff on the shelf that they said they have had for 57 months. I did not change the gear oil at this time (though I did cut an access hole in the plate below the trans in case I want to do it later, without having to remove the plate), I just added enough to bring the level up to the proper level with Mobil One synthetic.

I wouldn't run the engine until you drain the coolant and re-fill using the proper tools and procedures. An air pocket in the system can cause localized overheating and cause engine damage
I am still messing with the cooling system, I did get an airlift system and drained and refilled it. Everything seemed good and I was flushing the Power Steering fluid. I had the engine running and noticed a coolant leak from the right rear of the engine, crap! So I shut the engine off and started looking for the leak. What I found was that when I replaced the little cover for the bleed valve and screwed the oil and coolant caps back on, I did not have the coolant cap on straight. That is were the leak was coming from. My son, with a chuckle, pointed at the warning sticker to make sure the cap did not go on crooked.

Ken
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Old 01-07-2019, 02:40 PM
  #24  
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Thanks Ken: Once I get past the clutch and IMS stuff I am planning to replace the water pump as it's most likely original as well. Am I facing the same difficulties you're having with the cooling system?
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Old 01-07-2019, 02:47 PM
  #25  
Ken P
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I don't know that I am really having problems with the cooling system. I don't think I really got more coolant in the system with the airlift tool when I refilled it.
And I am not having any overheating issues. And I get great heat out of the heater.
So I don't really think I am having any real problem with the cooling system.
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Old 01-13-2019, 04:42 PM
  #26  
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An update: Puller the lower case and there was no evidence of any filings nor any sludge at all. My feeling that this car was well maintained seems to be correct. The Bearing is out and looked and felt just fine. Under the seals it was flooded with oil though. Good to have it out. Bought the tool kit from FVD Brombacher. Very nicely built and only $199. They have a replacement bearing set that I will most likely purchase as well. The local Porsche dealer recommended them and is their source for IMS bearings should any customers want one replaced. I have all the parts are on order except the IMS and I'll be ordering that tomorrow. If I can figure out how to attach photos I'll send some as it goes back together.
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