2002 boxster s
07-27-2018, 10:25 PM
#16
Yes I have all the receipts for all the oil changes. The IMS bearing to my knowledge has not been done. The gentleman that owned this car is very wealthy he had it in his garage Hasn't been driven more than 2000 miles a year for the past 4 or 5 years or. They gave me a green folder full of all the receipts from all the work that he had done on the car so he is definitely kept up with the maintenance. The only thing is the key 5 doesn't work correctly so it doesn't unlock the door or the bonnet or the trunk but it works if I put it in the door so I have to take it to Porsche and see what's wrong with it
07-29-2018, 10:13 PM
#20
At 139K miles my 2002 (base) Boxster wasn't even broken in. Even at 317K miles the car and engine were in good shape. Clutch was worn out but not slipping.
These cars can obtain high miles. But they need good servicing to be in good shape at in this case 139K miles in order to have a good chance to make it to 239K miles and beyond.
The servicing must continue.
By good servicing regular oil/filter services with a good (and approved) oil. Brake/clutch fluid flush/bleed every 2 years. A coolant drain and refill with fresh every 4 years or so can prolong the water pump (and other cooling system component) life. Engine air filter (and cabin air filter) replaced on time/miles. Spark plugs replaced on time or miles. Transmission/diff fluid replaced on miles.
Body water drains must be kept free of (plant) trash. Door bottoms must be checked after a rain or car wash for signs of dampness. If dampness found door membranes need to be replaced.
Radiator ducts must be cleaned of (mostly) plant litter every so often. When I had my cars in for 5K mile oil/filter servicing the tech would blow out the trash. But if this is not done often enough the stuff can resist air and the bumper cover has to be removed and the stuff more easily accessed to remove it.
Not matter how well you service the vehicle problems will arise. You must recognize the problem early and deal with it promptly for while they aren't problems that immediately kill a car they can if left unaddressed.
I dealt with air/oil separator (AOS) 3 times. A leaking oil tube filler cap, 2 times. (Believe it or not these appear to wear out (and leak) at around 150K miles.) Water pump at 172K miles. Fuel pump at around 200K miles. A coolant tank 200K+ miles. The biggie was the passenger side VarioCam solenoid/actuator at around 250/260K miles. CV boots at around 275K miles.
While a high miles car can be a reasonable purchase because of the miles and age "weird" things can start to show up.
Thus I have to suggest you might want to resume looking for a lower miles car though of course one with good documented servicing history.
If you want to proceed I must stress it is very important that you give the car a thorough road test.
Briefly, visit the car cold. Turn off the A/C. You check this later. Start the engine and let it idle as you then walk around the car looking at body panel surfaces, gaps, etc. Check the brakes. A 1mm lip around the outside of the rotor is a sign the brakes are worn. Check the tires have plenty of tread and are N rated tires. (N rated are tires approved by Porsche for use on these cars.) The tires must all match in terms of brand and model and N number. (Non N rated tires suggest the owner may have skimped on other things.)
Check the radiator ducts. I you see trash in them you know you will have to budget to have these cleaned. (At my local dealer service department an hour's labor covered this.)
But as you look the car over keep an ear tuned to the engine. You don't want to hear obvious/distinct ticking, knocking, or any other untoward noises. The idle speed will start out high but drops as the engine runs. The engine should idle smooth, too. I've had my Boxster's engine described as sewing machine smooth.
After some idle time then have the seller take you on a 15 minute test drive. Yes, you ride as a passenger. This gives you the freedom to really focus on how the car rides, handles, sounds, runs, etc. The route should be selected to give the driver a chance to drive the car as you intend to drive it. A mix of city (stop/idle/go), boulevard (moderate speed steady state cruising), and highway/freeway driving. In this latter instance this should present an opportunity for the driver to hard accelerate the car from some low speed -- no need to drag race launch the car -- to some high (but legal) speed as quick as is safe to do so. The engine must pull good from low RPMS to near red line and shifts must be quick with no drama. Afterwards the engine should idle as if nothing happened.
After the 15 minute test ride back at the starting point you get behind the wheel and drive the car over the same route and drive it the same way although being unfamiliar with the car maybe you want to dial the hard acceleration down a bit (or a lot).
You must experience the car in its natural state: engine running and being driven as you intend to drive it.
Back at the starting point then you check out every system from headlights to wipers, from the horn to the heater/AC.
If after all of the above if you still like the car and believe you can buy it for a reasonable sum arrange for a PPI. Among other things this gets the car in the air for a check for any leak sign. Part of the reason for the initial idle time and then the 15 mile test ride then test drive is to have the engine run for nearly an hour. This gets the engine and the rest of the car up to operating temperature which is when if there is a leak it will most likely make itself known. It also gives the engine controller a chance to run through all the readiness monitor tests and if the CEL remains dark is a good sign the engine and its sensor subsystems/emissions systems are healthy.
These cars can obtain high miles. But they need good servicing to be in good shape at in this case 139K miles in order to have a good chance to make it to 239K miles and beyond.
The servicing must continue.
By good servicing regular oil/filter services with a good (and approved) oil. Brake/clutch fluid flush/bleed every 2 years. A coolant drain and refill with fresh every 4 years or so can prolong the water pump (and other cooling system component) life. Engine air filter (and cabin air filter) replaced on time/miles. Spark plugs replaced on time or miles. Transmission/diff fluid replaced on miles.
Body water drains must be kept free of (plant) trash. Door bottoms must be checked after a rain or car wash for signs of dampness. If dampness found door membranes need to be replaced.
Radiator ducts must be cleaned of (mostly) plant litter every so often. When I had my cars in for 5K mile oil/filter servicing the tech would blow out the trash. But if this is not done often enough the stuff can resist air and the bumper cover has to be removed and the stuff more easily accessed to remove it.
Not matter how well you service the vehicle problems will arise. You must recognize the problem early and deal with it promptly for while they aren't problems that immediately kill a car they can if left unaddressed.
I dealt with air/oil separator (AOS) 3 times. A leaking oil tube filler cap, 2 times. (Believe it or not these appear to wear out (and leak) at around 150K miles.) Water pump at 172K miles. Fuel pump at around 200K miles. A coolant tank 200K+ miles. The biggie was the passenger side VarioCam solenoid/actuator at around 250/260K miles. CV boots at around 275K miles.
While a high miles car can be a reasonable purchase because of the miles and age "weird" things can start to show up.
Thus I have to suggest you might want to resume looking for a lower miles car though of course one with good documented servicing history.
If you want to proceed I must stress it is very important that you give the car a thorough road test.
Briefly, visit the car cold. Turn off the A/C. You check this later. Start the engine and let it idle as you then walk around the car looking at body panel surfaces, gaps, etc. Check the brakes. A 1mm lip around the outside of the rotor is a sign the brakes are worn. Check the tires have plenty of tread and are N rated tires. (N rated are tires approved by Porsche for use on these cars.) The tires must all match in terms of brand and model and N number. (Non N rated tires suggest the owner may have skimped on other things.)
Check the radiator ducts. I you see trash in them you know you will have to budget to have these cleaned. (At my local dealer service department an hour's labor covered this.)
But as you look the car over keep an ear tuned to the engine. You don't want to hear obvious/distinct ticking, knocking, or any other untoward noises. The idle speed will start out high but drops as the engine runs. The engine should idle smooth, too. I've had my Boxster's engine described as sewing machine smooth.
After some idle time then have the seller take you on a 15 minute test drive. Yes, you ride as a passenger. This gives you the freedom to really focus on how the car rides, handles, sounds, runs, etc. The route should be selected to give the driver a chance to drive the car as you intend to drive it. A mix of city (stop/idle/go), boulevard (moderate speed steady state cruising), and highway/freeway driving. In this latter instance this should present an opportunity for the driver to hard accelerate the car from some low speed -- no need to drag race launch the car -- to some high (but legal) speed as quick as is safe to do so. The engine must pull good from low RPMS to near red line and shifts must be quick with no drama. Afterwards the engine should idle as if nothing happened.
After the 15 minute test ride back at the starting point you get behind the wheel and drive the car over the same route and drive it the same way although being unfamiliar with the car maybe you want to dial the hard acceleration down a bit (or a lot).
You must experience the car in its natural state: engine running and being driven as you intend to drive it.
Back at the starting point then you check out every system from headlights to wipers, from the horn to the heater/AC.
If after all of the above if you still like the car and believe you can buy it for a reasonable sum arrange for a PPI. Among other things this gets the car in the air for a check for any leak sign. Part of the reason for the initial idle time and then the 15 mile test ride then test drive is to have the engine run for nearly an hour. This gets the engine and the rest of the car up to operating temperature which is when if there is a leak it will most likely make itself known. It also gives the engine controller a chance to run through all the readiness monitor tests and if the CEL remains dark is a good sign the engine and its sensor subsystems/emissions systems are healthy.
07-30-2018, 03:10 PM
#21
At 139K miles my 2002 (base) Boxster wasn't even broken in. Even at 317K miles the car and engine were in good shape. Clutch was worn out but not slipping.
These cars can obtain high miles. But they need good servicing to be in good shape at in this case 139K miles in order to have a good chance to make it to 239K miles and beyond.
The servicing must continue.
By good servicing regular oil/filter services with a good (and approved) oil. Brake/clutch fluid flush/bleed every 2 years. A coolant drain and refill with fresh every 4 years or so can prolong the water pump (and other cooling system component) life. Engine air filter (and cabin air filter) replaced on time/miles. Spark plugs replaced on time or miles. Transmission/diff fluid replaced on miles.
Body water drains must be kept free of (plant) trash. Door bottoms must be checked after a rain or car wash for signs of dampness. If dampness found door membranes need to be replaced.
Radiator ducts must be cleaned of (mostly) plant litter every so often. When I had my cars in for 5K mile oil/filter servicing the tech would blow out the trash. But if this is not done often enough the stuff can resist air and the bumper cover has to be removed and the stuff more easily accessed to remove it.
Not matter how well you service the vehicle problems will arise. You must recognize the problem early and deal with it promptly for while they aren't problems that immediately kill a car they can if left unaddressed.
I dealt with air/oil separator (AOS) 3 times. A leaking oil tube filler cap, 2 times. (Believe it or not these appear to wear out (and leak) at around 150K miles.) Water pump at 172K miles. Fuel pump at around 200K miles. A coolant tank 200K+ miles. The biggie was the passenger side VarioCam solenoid/actuator at around 250/260K miles. CV boots at around 275K miles.
While a high miles car can be a reasonable purchase because of the miles and age "weird" things can start to show up.
Thus I have to suggest you might want to resume looking for a lower miles car though of course one with good documented servicing history.
If you want to proceed I must stress it is very important that you give the car a thorough road test.
Briefly, visit the car cold. Turn off the A/C. You check this later. Start the engine and let it idle as you then walk around the car looking at body panel surfaces, gaps, etc. Check the brakes. A 1mm lip around the outside of the rotor is a sign the brakes are worn. Check the tires have plenty of tread and are N rated tires. (N rated are tires approved by Porsche for use on these cars.) The tires must all match in terms of brand and model and N number. (Non N rated tires suggest the owner may have skimped on other things.)
Check the radiator ducts. I you see trash in them you know you will have to budget to have these cleaned. (At my local dealer service department an hour's labor covered this.)
But as you look the car over keep an ear tuned to the engine. You don't want to hear obvious/distinct ticking, knocking, or any other untoward noises. The idle speed will start out high but drops as the engine runs. The engine should idle smooth, too. I've had my Boxster's engine described as sewing machine smooth.
After some idle time then have the seller take you on a 15 minute test drive. Yes, you ride as a passenger. This gives you the freedom to really focus on how the car rides, handles, sounds, runs, etc. The route should be selected to give the driver a chance to drive the car as you intend to drive it. A mix of city (stop/idle/go), boulevard (moderate speed steady state cruising), and highway/freeway driving. In this latter instance this should present an opportunity for the driver to hard accelerate the car from some low speed -- no need to drag race launch the car -- to some high (but legal) speed as quick as is safe to do so. The engine must pull good from low RPMS to near red line and shifts must be quick with no drama. Afterwards the engine should idle as if nothing happened.
After the 15 minute test ride back at the starting point you get behind the wheel and drive the car over the same route and drive it the same way although being unfamiliar with the car maybe you want to dial the hard acceleration down a bit (or a lot).
You must experience the car in its natural state: engine running and being driven as you intend to drive it.
Back at the starting point then you check out every system from headlights to wipers, from the horn to the heater/AC.
If after all of the above if you still like the car and believe you can buy it for a reasonable sum arrange for a PPI. Among other things this gets the car in the air for a check for any leak sign. Part of the reason for the initial idle time and then the 15 mile test ride then test drive is to have the engine run for nearly an hour. This gets the engine and the rest of the car up to operating temperature which is when if there is a leak it will most likely make itself known. It also gives the engine controller a chance to run through all the readiness monitor tests and if the CEL remains dark is a good sign the engine and its sensor subsystems/emissions systems are healthy.
These cars can obtain high miles. But they need good servicing to be in good shape at in this case 139K miles in order to have a good chance to make it to 239K miles and beyond.
The servicing must continue.
By good servicing regular oil/filter services with a good (and approved) oil. Brake/clutch fluid flush/bleed every 2 years. A coolant drain and refill with fresh every 4 years or so can prolong the water pump (and other cooling system component) life. Engine air filter (and cabin air filter) replaced on time/miles. Spark plugs replaced on time or miles. Transmission/diff fluid replaced on miles.
Body water drains must be kept free of (plant) trash. Door bottoms must be checked after a rain or car wash for signs of dampness. If dampness found door membranes need to be replaced.
Radiator ducts must be cleaned of (mostly) plant litter every so often. When I had my cars in for 5K mile oil/filter servicing the tech would blow out the trash. But if this is not done often enough the stuff can resist air and the bumper cover has to be removed and the stuff more easily accessed to remove it.
Not matter how well you service the vehicle problems will arise. You must recognize the problem early and deal with it promptly for while they aren't problems that immediately kill a car they can if left unaddressed.
I dealt with air/oil separator (AOS) 3 times. A leaking oil tube filler cap, 2 times. (Believe it or not these appear to wear out (and leak) at around 150K miles.) Water pump at 172K miles. Fuel pump at around 200K miles. A coolant tank 200K+ miles. The biggie was the passenger side VarioCam solenoid/actuator at around 250/260K miles. CV boots at around 275K miles.
While a high miles car can be a reasonable purchase because of the miles and age "weird" things can start to show up.
Thus I have to suggest you might want to resume looking for a lower miles car though of course one with good documented servicing history.
If you want to proceed I must stress it is very important that you give the car a thorough road test.
Briefly, visit the car cold. Turn off the A/C. You check this later. Start the engine and let it idle as you then walk around the car looking at body panel surfaces, gaps, etc. Check the brakes. A 1mm lip around the outside of the rotor is a sign the brakes are worn. Check the tires have plenty of tread and are N rated tires. (N rated are tires approved by Porsche for use on these cars.) The tires must all match in terms of brand and model and N number. (Non N rated tires suggest the owner may have skimped on other things.)
Check the radiator ducts. I you see trash in them you know you will have to budget to have these cleaned. (At my local dealer service department an hour's labor covered this.)
But as you look the car over keep an ear tuned to the engine. You don't want to hear obvious/distinct ticking, knocking, or any other untoward noises. The idle speed will start out high but drops as the engine runs. The engine should idle smooth, too. I've had my Boxster's engine described as sewing machine smooth.
After some idle time then have the seller take you on a 15 minute test drive. Yes, you ride as a passenger. This gives you the freedom to really focus on how the car rides, handles, sounds, runs, etc. The route should be selected to give the driver a chance to drive the car as you intend to drive it. A mix of city (stop/idle/go), boulevard (moderate speed steady state cruising), and highway/freeway driving. In this latter instance this should present an opportunity for the driver to hard accelerate the car from some low speed -- no need to drag race launch the car -- to some high (but legal) speed as quick as is safe to do so. The engine must pull good from low RPMS to near red line and shifts must be quick with no drama. Afterwards the engine should idle as if nothing happened.
After the 15 minute test ride back at the starting point you get behind the wheel and drive the car over the same route and drive it the same way although being unfamiliar with the car maybe you want to dial the hard acceleration down a bit (or a lot).
You must experience the car in its natural state: engine running and being driven as you intend to drive it.
Back at the starting point then you check out every system from headlights to wipers, from the horn to the heater/AC.
If after all of the above if you still like the car and believe you can buy it for a reasonable sum arrange for a PPI. Among other things this gets the car in the air for a check for any leak sign. Part of the reason for the initial idle time and then the 15 mile test ride then test drive is to have the engine run for nearly an hour. This gets the engine and the rest of the car up to operating temperature which is when if there is a leak it will most likely make itself known. It also gives the engine controller a chance to run through all the readiness monitor tests and if the CEL remains dark is a good sign the engine and its sensor subsystems/emissions systems are healthy.
Well, this text should be quoted as "five stars gold TOP REFERENCE".
Super well written, thanks a LOT Macster, as usual, your contributions are at a very high level.