1998 Boxster alarm replace
#1
1998 Boxster alarm replace
has anyone had any luck in replacing the stock alarm and door opener system with an after market system? don't know if my problem is key guts or alarm system but it would cost over $200 to get and program new fob and a complete aftermarket is about $300. Your help would be appreciated.
#2
Can’t be done. The immobilizer and ECU talk to each other, both must work and be installed along with the chip in the key fob to make everything do their thing. Pull your front seat, you immobilizer is under it. You may have water damage, which causes weird systems issues at best, kills the car at worst (until fixed or replaced)
#3
Can’t be done. The immobilizer and ECU talk to each other, both must work and be installed along with the chip in the key fob to make everything do their thing. Pull your front seat, you immobilizer is under it. You may have water damage, which causes weird systems issues at best, kills the car at worst (until fixed or replaced)
#4
Race Director
Absent any signs of water intrusion -- keep those body water drains free of trash! -- the key/s can be at fault.
The circuit board in the key can go bad. The battery that powers the circuitry of the key can die. Or the circuitry of the key can act up. If one of these is going on a clue is when the door lock/unlock button is pressed the LED in the key fob does *not* flash/blink.
In this case what can resurrect a key is to gently pry apart the key fob case halves and remove the coin battery and flip it around and install it momentarily. This reversing of the polarity of the battery resets the circuitry and in my experience a couple of times over the years has revived a key that previously was unable to unlock/lock the doors.
There is even a less severe case of the key circuitry getting in a goofy state that can be "fixed" by inserting the key in door lock and turning the key to the left (or right I forget which direction now) two times in rapid succession. This resync's the key and its electronics with the car's security system. When I do this is when the key fails to unlock the doors but the LED of the key fob flashes which indicates the key circuitry is at some level working.
#5
Also see if your door locks are working properly, you can insert the key, turn and hold, (don’t remember which direction) and it should open/close the windows. Does your alarm system chirp at all when trying to activate? It shouldn’t and can clue you in to some issues. Might be worthwhile to pull the immobilizer, remove the cover, and look at the board. It’s not too difficult a process overall. Or, you could take it to a dealer and have the entire thing diagnosed but that =$. I’m not sure if the standard Durametric cable lets you see problems with the security system, but the pro does. It is worthwhile IMO to get the box out and check to be sure. If it has had water damage it is a potential time bomb to leave you stranded somewhere. Usually though if the board is a problem you would have other odd issues with the electronics.
Macster, cool tip on the key reset!
Macster, cool tip on the key reset!
#6
Just because the key fob button no longer unlocks/locks the doors is no reason to replace the car's security system.
Absent any signs of water intrusion -- keep those body water drains free of trash! -- the key/s can be at fault.
The circuit board in the key can go bad. The battery that powers the circuitry of the key can die. Or the circuitry of the key can act up. If one of these is going on a clue is when the door lock/unlock button is pressed the LED in the key fob does *not* flash/blink.
In this case what can resurrect a key is to gently pry apart the key fob case halves and remove the coin battery and flip it around and install it momentarily. This reversing of the polarity of the battery resets the circuitry and in my experience a couple of times over the years has revived a key that previously was unable to unlock/lock the doors.
There is even a less severe case of the key circuitry getting in a goofy state that can be "fixed" by inserting the key in door lock and turning the key to the left (or right I forget which direction now) two times in rapid succession. This resync's the key and its electronics with the car's security system. When I do this is when the key fails to unlock the doors but the LED of the key fob flashes which indicates the key circuitry is at some level working.
Absent any signs of water intrusion -- keep those body water drains free of trash! -- the key/s can be at fault.
The circuit board in the key can go bad. The battery that powers the circuitry of the key can die. Or the circuitry of the key can act up. If one of these is going on a clue is when the door lock/unlock button is pressed the LED in the key fob does *not* flash/blink.
In this case what can resurrect a key is to gently pry apart the key fob case halves and remove the coin battery and flip it around and install it momentarily. This reversing of the polarity of the battery resets the circuitry and in my experience a couple of times over the years has revived a key that previously was unable to unlock/lock the doors.
There is even a less severe case of the key circuitry getting in a goofy state that can be "fixed" by inserting the key in door lock and turning the key to the left (or right I forget which direction now) two times in rapid succession. This resync's the key and its electronics with the car's security system. When I do this is when the key fails to unlock the doors but the LED of the key fob flashes which indicates the key circuitry is at some level working.
#7
Also see if your door locks are working properly, you can insert the key, turn and hold, (don’t remember which direction) and it should open/close the windows. Does your alarm system chirp at all when trying to activate? It shouldn’t and can clue you in to some issues. Might be worthwhile to pull the immobilizer, remove the cover, and look at the board. It’s not too difficult a process overall. Or, you could take it to a dealer and have the entire thing diagnosed but that =$. I’m not sure if the standard Durametric cable lets you see problems with the security system, but the pro does. It is worthwhile IMO to get the box out and check to be sure. If it has had water damage it is a potential time bomb to leave you stranded somewhere. Usually though if the board is a problem you would have other odd issues with the electronics.
Macster, cool tip on the key reset!
Macster, cool tip on the key reset!
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#8
Given all of that, it is probably the key circuit board as Macster mentioned. You would have other funkiness if it were the immobilizer. Does your key open the frunk or trunk? I'm not sure if the early keys had that feature. Take the cover off and manually press the little button, the rubber can get funky in the fob itself. You can get replacement fobs on Pelican if you get lucky and that is the problem, I had to replace mine and my fob worked perfectly after that. Could also just be a bad connection in the little board, check the solder joints...
#9
Given all of that, it is probably the key circuit board as Macster mentioned. You would have other funkiness if it were the immobilizer. Does your key open the frunk or trunk? I'm not sure if the early keys had that feature. Take the cover off and manually press the little button, the rubber can get funky in the fob itself. You can get replacement fobs on Pelican if you get lucky and that is the problem, I had to replace mine and my fob worked perfectly after that. Could also just be a bad connection in the little board, check the solder joints...
#10
#11
Here is the link, but yours may be different:
https://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin...iption=986+key
My issue was only the outer plastic portion, the rubber buttons were shot, my internals were fine. That’s why it would be good to open up the fob, try the buttons with your fingers and see if it works. If so, all you need is the plastic cover. You have tried a new battery haven’t you? If you have, try another one, I’ve had more than one be dead out of the package.
You can find replacement outer’s on eBay as well, just swap your internals. Regarding the new board reset, the transponder chip is what your car needs to start, it is a little green pill in the fob. It is glass, if you break that, it is tow the car to the dealer time and have a completely new key made $$$$. The car will not start without that little green pill. I’m not sure how to program the board to the car, check your owners manual, there may be a procedure in there, or perhaps someone else may have done it.
https://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin...iption=986+key
My issue was only the outer plastic portion, the rubber buttons were shot, my internals were fine. That’s why it would be good to open up the fob, try the buttons with your fingers and see if it works. If so, all you need is the plastic cover. You have tried a new battery haven’t you? If you have, try another one, I’ve had more than one be dead out of the package.
You can find replacement outer’s on eBay as well, just swap your internals. Regarding the new board reset, the transponder chip is what your car needs to start, it is a little green pill in the fob. It is glass, if you break that, it is tow the car to the dealer time and have a completely new key made $$$$. The car will not start without that little green pill. I’m not sure how to program the board to the car, check your owners manual, there may be a procedure in there, or perhaps someone else may have done it.
#12
Here is the link, but yours may be different:
https://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin...iption=986+key
My issue was only the outer plastic portion, the rubber buttons were shot, my internals were fine. That’s why it would be good to open up the fob, try the buttons with your fingers and see if it works. If so, all you need is the plastic cover. You have tried a new battery haven’t you? If you have, try another one, I’ve had more than one be dead out of the package.
You can find replacement outer’s on eBay as well, just swap your internals. Regarding the new board reset, the transponder chip is what your car needs to start, it is a little green pill in the fob. It is glass, if you break that, it is tow the car to the dealer time and have a completely new key made $$$$. The car will not start without that little green pill. I’m not sure how to program the board to the car, check your owners manual, there may be a procedure in there, or perhaps someone else may have done it.
https://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin...iption=986+key
My issue was only the outer plastic portion, the rubber buttons were shot, my internals were fine. That’s why it would be good to open up the fob, try the buttons with your fingers and see if it works. If so, all you need is the plastic cover. You have tried a new battery haven’t you? If you have, try another one, I’ve had more than one be dead out of the package.
You can find replacement outer’s on eBay as well, just swap your internals. Regarding the new board reset, the transponder chip is what your car needs to start, it is a little green pill in the fob. It is glass, if you break that, it is tow the car to the dealer time and have a completely new key made $$$$. The car will not start without that little green pill. I’m not sure how to program the board to the car, check your owners manual, there may be a procedure in there, or perhaps someone else may have done it.
#13
Hello ,I can help with your key fob ,If you have problem I can learn again your key fob which doesn't work with another PAS unit,I need only PAS unit and key . You haven't buy new remote control ,I do this gratis (no pay ,because many people have the same problem but nobody here on this forum believe me ,I want only presenet my know-how)
Best regards
Best regards
#14
After several months of looking, I am still lost. My key operates the door manually fine. If I lock the doors manually the led on the dash indicates alarm on and if if open the hood or doors while it is locked the alarm will sound. Battery in remote was replaced and the little light on the fob will still not light or work no matter what I do. looked carefully at circuitry and cannot see cracks or anything wrong.. It appears that the electronics in the fob are dead. Where can I get new electronics for my 2 button? I realize that I will probably have to go the Porsche to reprogram but would like to fix.
#15
If the light doesn't come on when you press the buttons your switches under the buttons may be toast. If you are handy with a soldering iron you can fix that yourself. The switches are available on eBay (to buy them elsewhere you have to buy them in lots of a 1000). If you take the circuit board out with the battery in it and press the buttons with a nail or a pen you may get them to light up. Another way to test the switches is to take a piece of single strand wire and short the two sides of the switches. If you see the light blinking you have confirmation that the switches are bad.