986 Erratic Rpm
#1
1st Gear
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Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Denton, Tx
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986 Erratic Rpm
In November of last year I bought a 1999 boxster which had a few issues. Initially it had a failed AOS and a starter with a failing bendix. This lead to a squealing noise on startup and a high idle (around 1000 rpm). After replacing the starter and AOS my idle is still around 900 rpm while the engine is cold and gradually it drops to around 760 rpm at operating temperature. While driving at temp, the rpms when I put it in neutral drop to about 1000 and then increase briefly before dropping to normal idle. In addition I am getting a short rattle on cold starts and the rpms on each start up jump to around 2000 then fall to roughly 400 and settle at a normal level after a few seconds. Any thoughts on potential causes would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Griffin Welsh
Thanks,
Griffin Welsh
#3
Rennlist Member
I had pretty much the same symptoms and problems on my 97 but it was also throwing codes. Cleaned MAF sensor and it made it worse. Replaced it and all the idle issues / hard starting are gone. Not sure about the rattling though - my car with 45K miles does the same thing (as does my 2003 996TT) i have assumed that is just the timing chains making noise on start up but that is an uneducated guess. Only other thing to consider is taking apart the throttle body and giving that a through cleaning. My AOS had failed and there was a lot of oil in there. I think the replacement AOS is also bad as the squealing noise is still there and there is new oil in my upper vent hose that connects the throttle to the AOS after 50 miles of driving (ugh).
#4
Yes, I cleaned my MAF, too. And the code still lites up and the idle is rough. I'm going to try cleaning it one more time to see if MAF voltage comes back, currently it's 0v. If need be, I'll spring for a new one.
I'm also getting a random misfire on bank 2, and a misfire on cylinder 5, so I'm replacing the last set of plugs, which were Autolite Iridium with a set of NGK TT Iridiums. And I think the coils are originals, I have a replacement engine. Hoping a set of NGK coils will do the trick.
All could cause an erratic idle, I believe. When in doubt, massage it with $100 bills.
I'm also getting a random misfire on bank 2, and a misfire on cylinder 5, so I'm replacing the last set of plugs, which were Autolite Iridium with a set of NGK TT Iridiums. And I think the coils are originals, I have a replacement engine. Hoping a set of NGK coils will do the trick.
All could cause an erratic idle, I believe. When in doubt, massage it with $100 bills.
#5
Stick with stock plugs... these motors don’t like much else, same for coils... cleaning a MAF is always a hit and miss. I’ve had more die, than get better after cleaning. Might be worth just replacing. It would also be helpful to see if there are any associated codes stored. You can get codes without a CEL, though usually if there is a fueling issue it will throw a CEL. Any OBD2 reader can pull basic codes.
Also, rattling with a cold start for a second or two, can be normal, the chains make some pretty good racket when kicked in, but it could also be a sign of failing/weak chain tensioners. Hard to tell one from the other. If it doesn’t persist and the “rattle” is very brief, probably not a big deal. Mine does it, particularly after sitting for a few days. Otherwise my engine is very, very quiet.
Also, rattling with a cold start for a second or two, can be normal, the chains make some pretty good racket when kicked in, but it could also be a sign of failing/weak chain tensioners. Hard to tell one from the other. If it doesn’t persist and the “rattle” is very brief, probably not a big deal. Mine does it, particularly after sitting for a few days. Otherwise my engine is very, very quiet.
#7
The rumor is that "these engines don't like other than stock plugs" but I have little in the way of evidence to suggest this. And the coils are made in Germany by, guess what? Beru.
I've been doing the car thing, working on my own stuff for 40 or so years. NGK isn't a low rent outfit and they work in a market/environment where their good name is important as their pricepoint. I know the difference between copper plugs (best performance but lousy lifespan,) Platinum, better lifespan, and Iridium, best lifespan. Geof3 are you saying that Beru is the best plugon the market for my Por sha? Ever hear of sourcing decisions--Beru gives OEM Porsche the best price--but other than being OEM, is it better? Got proof?
I'll try my NGKs, won't kill the engine and probably be just fine.
I've been doing the car thing, working on my own stuff for 40 or so years. NGK isn't a low rent outfit and they work in a market/environment where their good name is important as their pricepoint. I know the difference between copper plugs (best performance but lousy lifespan,) Platinum, better lifespan, and Iridium, best lifespan. Geof3 are you saying that Beru is the best plugon the market for my Por sha? Ever hear of sourcing decisions--Beru gives OEM Porsche the best price--but other than being OEM, is it better? Got proof?
I'll try my NGKs, won't kill the engine and probably be just fine.
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#8
Racer
I cleaned my MAF and changed to NGK Iridiums when I hit around 50K miles a while back. They engine runs smooth and beautifully with these plugs. The Berus they replaced looked relatively fine with only a slight carbon glazing on the electrodes. I guess that is a testament to using good gasoline and fuel stabilizer when in storage. I think as long as you have a quality set of plugs with the right gap and temperature rating plus use a good fuel you will get good performance.
#9
The rumor is that "these engines don't like other than stock plugs" but I have little in the way of evidence to suggest this. And the coils are made in Germany by, guess what? Beru.
I've been doing the car thing, working on my own stuff for 40 or so years. NGK isn't a low rent outfit and they work in a market/environment where their good name is important as their pricepoint. I know the difference between copper plugs (best performance but lousy lifespan,) Platinum, better lifespan, and Iridium, best lifespan. Geof3 are you saying that Beru is the best plugon the market for my Por sha? Ever hear of sourcing decisions--Beru gives OEM Porsche the best price--but other than being OEM, is it better? Got proof?
I'll try my NGKs, won't kill the engine and probably be just fine.
I've been doing the car thing, working on my own stuff for 40 or so years. NGK isn't a low rent outfit and they work in a market/environment where their good name is important as their pricepoint. I know the difference between copper plugs (best performance but lousy lifespan,) Platinum, better lifespan, and Iridium, best lifespan. Geof3 are you saying that Beru is the best plugon the market for my Por sha? Ever hear of sourcing decisions--Beru gives OEM Porsche the best price--but other than being OEM, is it better? Got proof?
I'll try my NGKs, won't kill the engine and probably be just fine.