Matt Marks

Got under my new to me '99 for the first time today and looked at what 15+ years of the previous owner's Pittsburg winters has wrought. The drivers side hard lines were crusty to the the point of collapse, and the hardline that goes up around near the trunk area and over to the driver's rear is essentially mush. I cut and flared the driver's front hard and used a union to run new line back to the "distribution block" under the driver's seat area that splits the single line into two for the rears. 1 hour, 12 bucks, job done. The distribution block to Driver's rear shock/hub area is pretty straightforward as it's in all in sight.

However - the rear line makes some zigs and zags, and then turns diagonally up and into some compartment that I suspect is behind trunk before comes back around and down to the passenger strut.

Anyone manage to get the existing line out and thread a new one? My expaction is that I am going to have to piece together 2 or 3 pieces of line to accomodate this, but can't find anything on the net about people who've tried either putting a stock line back in or piecing one together.

Thoughts or experience with this?

Matt Marks

Bumping this - the internet is failing me for information on this topic.

brianmch

Never heard of such a thing here or on the other boards (Pedro's, Pelican, etc). Good luck tho, sounds like a PITA.

jimk04

I've done it...royal pita but do able.
put the roof in service position and take the engine cover off. It runs along the back edge of the aperture so you can do a bit from up top but you'll need a helper.!

JPSummers

Facing the same problem here. Ohio winters & road salt trashed mine.
I have new lines waiting to install from the metering block to the splitter block, then to each rear wheel. Does anyone have and tutorials or videos covering the job?
I'm positive it's a PITA. This is hte 4th or 5th car I've replaced hard lines on. Just never on a 986.

tcora

It is a pain. Take your time and you will get it done.

MarkoP

Hello,

I did a full hardline replacement all the way to the front left brake hydraulic line distribution block. Hard lines cut , bent and flared from CuNiFe tubing. (If your MOT allows). They are more easy to bend into correct shape and adjust while installing on the body.

The most difficult line is the rear right rigid line connecting the rear right flexible brake line and the square aluminium coupler connecting the both rear rigid brake lines into a single disconnect point. Just that you are aware, rear left and rear right rigid lines do not have the came size wrench or thread on the aluminum disconnect block (Left side of the vehicle closer to te rear wheel) . One is a 10x1mm other is M12x1mm (Poka-yoke so that the technicians do not mix up left and right hydraulic connection).

This line goes up over the transmission and then takes a sharp turn 90deg behind the front section of the rear left wheel arch liner, it is held in place by 99959193040 clips that considering the age any 986 today can turn brittle and break or can hold the line with such force that you need a flat screwdriver or a small pry bar to pop them out. It would be logical to replace those clips or have some spares on hand if any break. It is attached to the 98650267500 crossmember in a up side down U shape on the driving direction side of that crossmember.

Then depending on your possibility to have the car stationary/disabled/ stored for some time. (jack stands, quickjack, etc... 2 post lift for a prolonged time would be perfect) rising the car as high as possible while lowering the transmission via unbolting the mounts and lowering on the mechanical jack helps with the access and snaking in this line without bending it out of shape.
Underbody panels need to be removed, wheels, rear wheel arch liners.

I did this job while having the car on quickjacks with transmission removed (IMS+RMS+DMF+Clutch kit) and even then it takes patience and care not to scrape the new line against various sharp edges of the bodywork and to get proper clearances. With transmission in place you need a large ground clearance and possibly (not recommended) bending the lines to get them in correct space then bending them back to have correct attachment and connections.

Give me some time I can get few pictures of the lines extracted from the car in correct position and orientation for you to get a feel for the job.
Considering that this is a once in a lifetime of the car job it does not hurt to be a bit pedantic on it.

JPSummers

Yep, those parts are all done. Maneuvering the right rear line was the most difficult. Inserting from the top of the engine bay, right side first, sliding the line beyond it's normal position to make room on the left, then maneuvering the left one down worked for me. Patience and close observation were key to getting it in and not bending it too far out of shape. As we all know, one kink and it's over. I didn't have much trouble with the clips but added zip ties to each as a preventative measure if any pop loose. Using the Quick Jack made life a LOT easier.
Unfortunately when I placed the system under pressure to check for leaks and begin bleeding, the connection block was leaking. Damn thing cracked where the front supply line goes into it. It seems this is a relatively common issue. Porsche has superseded the design three times now. Why they don't machine it out of brass, rather than aluminum, is beyond me. Waiting on another to arrive, sending the old one out to an aftermarket & performance supplier to use as a guide on making better ones for future use.
When I have time, I'll post photos and the methods I used to, hopefully, make it easier for others in the future. These cars are getting a bit long in the tooth and Midwest road salt has a tendency to destroy brake & fuel lines long before they damage the cars.
Photo shows where the block cracked. I added the Part Number for my reference.

JPSummers

Hope this helps someone.

Replacing Rear Hard Brake Lines on a Porsche 986 Boxster (early model, 1997)

Not a job for the faint of heart. There’s reasons dealerships charge $2k-$5k to do this. It’s a slow, tedious job that’s not hard to do but time consuming and extremely frustrating. 
I opted to recondition all my brakes, replace the soft lines, Rotors & pads and replace my tires while i had the car in the air and wheels pulled off.

Ratings are: 
Blood 3 , Sweat 4, Swearing 9, 
Difficulty 7,
 Frustration 10

Parts:
OEM Pre-Bent Lines from Pelican
Part #: 996-355-177-13-OEM
Part #: 986-355-190-12-OEM
Part #: 986-355-189-09-OEM
2 Quarts DOT 4 Brake Fluid

Optional (may as well do it all while the car’s in the air)
4 Soft Brake Lines (One for each wheel)
Rotors & Pads

Tools: 

Full set of Metric Flare Wrenches,
Thread Conditioning, Tool Set, 
Pliers, Screw Drivers, Socket Wrench Set, Combination Wrench Set 
PIWIS or Durametric Computer Software, 
Pressure Bleeder, 
Highly Recommend a QuickJack for raising the car. 


The Beginning

Raise the car, remove the wheels (Front Left, Both Rear). Remove the left front inner fender cover. Remove the Left headlight, Remove the trim surrounding the ABS Module in the left Frunk. Remove the Washer Fluid Bottle. Locate the Distribution Module in the fender on the top front fender well.

Remove bottom plastic protective panels from the belly of the car. Especially on the Left Rocker Panel, under the Driver’s Seat. This is where the Splitter Block, Porsche calls it a Connector Piece (PN-996-355-660-06) for the Rear Brakes is Located. It’s liable to also need replaced since they’re prone to cracking

From this point the Hard Line from the distribution module to the Connection Piece can be removed. This line tracks from the distribution module along the top of the inner fender, down the back of the fender, then under the rocker panel. 

Remove from Dist. Module end first, unclip all the retainers, Then slide line forward. Insert in reverse. Sliding new line under the rocker panel first, then maneuvering into place along the rear & top of fender well. 

Next to Remove the Left Rear Brake Line. Remove the forward fender well plastic piece. Uncouple the line from flexible line & connector piece, unclip from retainers and slide out the rear of the fender well. 
Install in the reverse order.

Ok, two down one to go. The most difficult. To remove the old line I needed to cut it in a couple places. Put the top into the Service Position, remove the engine cover.
First cut I made was where it turns up along the rear firewall. I removed that piece by sliding out from under the left wheel well. 
Second was where it turns forward along the right suspension area. Removing that piece through the right wheel well.
I then removed the piece along the firewall noting which cables, tubes, etc. it ran under.


To install that line I inserted it as an inverted “U” from over the engine, routing the end for the right brake under the lines it needed to go under. Then from under the car gently routing it through the path it needed to follow. I then carefully kept pulling line through for another 2 to 3 feet to make room for the other end. 
I then followed the same procedure on the left side, routing the line behind the air duct, along the firewall, over the wheel arch, down to the rocker panel. Some shifting back & forth to make sure the ends were in proper position was necessary.

Some bending was involved to get the lines routed as necessary. Then bent back to proper shape for fit. 
One kink in the line and it's GAME OVER. Requiring a new line or a splice midline to repair for the kink.
I then connected the lines from the Distribution Block, the Connection Piece and each wheel flexible line. Unfortunately, when I leak tested it with my pressure bleeder there was a leak at the Connection Piece. It had cracked where to supply line fed into it. This appears to be a common problem. Going along the routing of the new lines reconnecting the retainer clips. I also added zip ties in case any didn’t hold.

Then bleed the brakes and check for leaks before putting all the panels back in place.

I really hope this helps someone in the same position.


Connection Piece Part# 996-355-660-06