2000 Boxster - ignition switch VERY hard to turn
#1
2000 Boxster - ignition switch VERY hard to turn
Hello fellow Boxster owners
I need some help. I've had my 2000 Boxster for 16 yrs now. Over the past few years I had noticed the ignition switch get harder to turn (clockwise - i.e. starting).
Couple key points
- usually when I'd notice this, it would be on the first startup of the day (car isn't driven that much - maybe once/wk). Subsequent turns of the switch in the same day generally it's feeling about normal.
- I don't lock the steering wheel when it's parked ever (wheels are always parked straight ahead when I park the car)
- there have never been any weird electrical gremlins observed (dash lights flickering, inability to get key out, etc)
It got to the point where I was afraid I might break the key trying to turn it.... so about 1 month ago I went ahead and decided to replace the electrical ignition switch - Part #: 4B0-905-849-OEM - hoping this would resolve things as had seen the instructions for this fix in my 101 Projects book and brought up in many forums/etc. (side note - that was a contortionist nightmare!).
Unfortunately I'm not noticing any difference after doing that (and the old switch really didn't look noticeably bad at least on the outside). I still am observing about the same behavior now.
From what I can surmise the difficulty to turn the key is probably 1 of 2 general things:
1) any mechanical stuff between the key receptacle itself (and including it) all the way down to the electrical piece I replaced (i.e. there is some stuff directly in between)
2) there is some steering wheel lock mechanism that ties into this whole thing - so something in that
Trying to avoid any more service cost pains - to see if I can repair this myself. Sure this HAS to be a common problem and hoping somewhere here can help, particularly on the above 2 areas if you think that's causing it.
Thanks
I need some help. I've had my 2000 Boxster for 16 yrs now. Over the past few years I had noticed the ignition switch get harder to turn (clockwise - i.e. starting).
Couple key points
- usually when I'd notice this, it would be on the first startup of the day (car isn't driven that much - maybe once/wk). Subsequent turns of the switch in the same day generally it's feeling about normal.
- I don't lock the steering wheel when it's parked ever (wheels are always parked straight ahead when I park the car)
- there have never been any weird electrical gremlins observed (dash lights flickering, inability to get key out, etc)
It got to the point where I was afraid I might break the key trying to turn it.... so about 1 month ago I went ahead and decided to replace the electrical ignition switch - Part #: 4B0-905-849-OEM - hoping this would resolve things as had seen the instructions for this fix in my 101 Projects book and brought up in many forums/etc. (side note - that was a contortionist nightmare!).
Unfortunately I'm not noticing any difference after doing that (and the old switch really didn't look noticeably bad at least on the outside). I still am observing about the same behavior now.
From what I can surmise the difficulty to turn the key is probably 1 of 2 general things:
1) any mechanical stuff between the key receptacle itself (and including it) all the way down to the electrical piece I replaced (i.e. there is some stuff directly in between)
2) there is some steering wheel lock mechanism that ties into this whole thing - so something in that
Trying to avoid any more service cost pains - to see if I can repair this myself. Sure this HAS to be a common problem and hoping somewhere here can help, particularly on the above 2 areas if you think that's causing it.
Thanks
#2
Just for clarity - the ignition has 3 settings per the manual (0 - where you pull the key in/out ; 1 - ignition on where all the lamps light up; 2 - start the engine)
When this issue happens it's happening only when turning clockwise from 0 to 1 position. And generally, after some effort to turn it to 1.........you can go back and forth between 0 and 1 positions and things feel about normal.
When this issue happens it's happening only when turning clockwise from 0 to 1 position. And generally, after some effort to turn it to 1.........you can go back and forth between 0 and 1 positions and things feel about normal.
#5
Thanks dr914 - Is there anything in that pistol that actually moves/turns and could wear out? It looks like just a metal housing....and I assume the tumblers in the ignition lock cylinder roll around/into its grooves or something like that. So 1 or the other could have worn down or something.
Is it safe to douse the inside of the key receptable w/ WD40? Or is that likely to cost me more $$....?
Is it safe to douse the inside of the key receptable w/ WD40? Or is that likely to cost me more $$....?
#6
They make lock deicer/lubricant, which should be available at your local car parts establishment.
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#8
Hey dr914 - you mention you sell these, just curious are you working at some auto shop? Which one?
Also - I have found 1 OEM for about $250 and 1 non-OEM for about $160. Is it prudent to only go w/ OEM here for this part?
Thanks
Also - I have found 1 OEM for about $250 and 1 non-OEM for about $160. Is it prudent to only go w/ OEM here for this part?
Thanks
#10
The ign. switch in my 01 wouldn't make the "click" that turns off the electrics when I pulled the key out. I sprayed brake cleaner (from autozone) in where the key inserts and worked it. then sprayed again to rinse it out.
Finally I sprayed in gun lube and over a few weeks it got better and better. I suspect the OP may have a dirty lock mechanism. Lots of gummy crap and dust in there from 18 years of use.
Finally I sprayed in gun lube and over a few weeks it got better and better. I suspect the OP may have a dirty lock mechanism. Lots of gummy crap and dust in there from 18 years of use.
#11
just reviving this old thread. wonder if OP fix his issues... and i have the same. cannot turn the key at all even with steering wheel turned right then left and vice versa... i did hear a pop the last time i tried and the key was able to turn.. pop sound came from the steering wheel when i put some force on it.... no won't budge. any advice here? i'll check pedrosboard also
#12
Rennlist Member
Check out these links for my experience...
https://rennlist.com/forums/boxster-...fo-needed.html
http://986forum.com/forums/performan...-resolved.html
The above repair was made on the blue 2000 Boxster that I had for about 8 months (bought it, fixed it, sold to a friend), now my car which is also a 2000, but green, is having this problem. I notice that the temperature has something to do with it. When I bought the car last fall the ignition was stiff, especially on the first start. During the summer it was OK and this fall it has started getting stiff again. I tried removing the ignition lock barrel and spraying Jigaloo in hoping that it would flow down and lubricate the bolt. Note, no lubrication in the lock barrel itself since it turns just fine once removed. I am guessing that I didn't put enough in to properly lubricate the bolt so I will try again.
https://rennlist.com/forums/boxster-...fo-needed.html
http://986forum.com/forums/performan...-resolved.html
The above repair was made on the blue 2000 Boxster that I had for about 8 months (bought it, fixed it, sold to a friend), now my car which is also a 2000, but green, is having this problem. I notice that the temperature has something to do with it. When I bought the car last fall the ignition was stiff, especially on the first start. During the summer it was OK and this fall it has started getting stiff again. I tried removing the ignition lock barrel and spraying Jigaloo in hoping that it would flow down and lubricate the bolt. Note, no lubrication in the lock barrel itself since it turns just fine once removed. I am guessing that I didn't put enough in to properly lubricate the bolt so I will try again.