IMS procedure, Set screws or locking plates?or Both?
12-14-2017, 09:15 PM
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IMS procedure, Set screws or locking plates?or Both?
Hello, After 2 911s, and lastly a 986 tiptronic, 2.7, 2002. I am delving into the IMS zone..... One, have a Pelican P ims kit, LN bearing tool, locking plates, TDC pin....set screws for the intermediate shaft sprocket locking, do you use set screws and locking plates? What if intermediate shaft sprocket flats don't line up? Remove the locking plates and TDC pin and rotate? And when the heck do you loosen, remove the chain tensioners??? Oh ya, it's an automatic, torque converter.....not alot of info regarding this removal, but I will stick to the IMS issue
Any help would be appreciated,
Thanks
New member
Any help would be appreciated,
Thanks
New member
12-15-2017, 01:05 PM
#2
8th Gear
IMS Replacement on Tiptronic
MajorMajor17 My car is a 2004 Boxster S Tiptronic which had 65,000 kms and the original IMS bearing. Initially I wasn't worried about the IMS but once I started enjoying the car I could not help but worry, and so I decide to replace the IMS Bearing. After considerable research I decided on the LN Engineering IMS Solution kit. In the end I decided that doing the upgrade myself was the way to go even though I do not have a lift, although I do have a well-equipped workshop.
In addition to buying the IMS Solution kit I also bought the LN Engineering specialist tool kits. The bearing and tools were all quality components, and the instructions which came with the new bearing detailed and complete. All in all very professional and a real confidence booster.
Having no lift I worked with the car as high as possible on axle stands. I then set about removing the tiptronic transaxle. The torque converter is locked to the bell housing with the tool supplied and comes out with it, after removing the 6 bolts that lock the torque converter to the flex plate. These are removed by working through the starter aperture after removing the starter motor. Be warned, the transmission is heavy, hire a good transmission jack.
To answer your question, in the LN Engineering tool kits there are two cam locking tools. I used both to be on the safe side but the instructions suggest only one is needed. The sprocket locking screws are generally not used anymore as they can displace the sprocket if screwed in too far. The three chain tensioners are removed completely but ONLY after the cams are locked at TDC. Do not mix up the chain tensioners, they are different. However note that the 4 – 6 chain tensioner is located on top of the engine on the left side of the car below the A/C, the mounting for which is below the power steering reservoir and pipe, which is below the left bank inlet manifold. Tedious.
It is now 7,000 kms ago that the bearing was replaced and so far all good. The original bearing had the seals intact but there was a lot of thick, smelly oil in the intermediate shaft and in the bearing. Seemed to spin smoothly though. However when the seals were removed and the bearing washed it was very loose, and rattled when spun. Examining the race surfaces after cutting the outer race showed patches of roughness with noticeable “lateral stutter” marks across the bearing track. Who knows how long it would have lasted but something I shouldn't have to worry about for a very long time.
I hope this helps. Good luck.
In addition to buying the IMS Solution kit I also bought the LN Engineering specialist tool kits. The bearing and tools were all quality components, and the instructions which came with the new bearing detailed and complete. All in all very professional and a real confidence booster.
Having no lift I worked with the car as high as possible on axle stands. I then set about removing the tiptronic transaxle. The torque converter is locked to the bell housing with the tool supplied and comes out with it, after removing the 6 bolts that lock the torque converter to the flex plate. These are removed by working through the starter aperture after removing the starter motor. Be warned, the transmission is heavy, hire a good transmission jack.
To answer your question, in the LN Engineering tool kits there are two cam locking tools. I used both to be on the safe side but the instructions suggest only one is needed. The sprocket locking screws are generally not used anymore as they can displace the sprocket if screwed in too far. The three chain tensioners are removed completely but ONLY after the cams are locked at TDC. Do not mix up the chain tensioners, they are different. However note that the 4 – 6 chain tensioner is located on top of the engine on the left side of the car below the A/C, the mounting for which is below the power steering reservoir and pipe, which is below the left bank inlet manifold. Tedious.
It is now 7,000 kms ago that the bearing was replaced and so far all good. The original bearing had the seals intact but there was a lot of thick, smelly oil in the intermediate shaft and in the bearing. Seemed to spin smoothly though. However when the seals were removed and the bearing washed it was very loose, and rattled when spun. Examining the race surfaces after cutting the outer race showed patches of roughness with noticeable “lateral stutter” marks across the bearing track. Who knows how long it would have lasted but something I shouldn't have to worry about for a very long time.
I hope this helps. Good luck.
12-15-2017, 03:05 PM
#3
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Hi There
I did the IMS bearing on my 2001 3.2 s boxster.
Automatic will be no different apart from removal of box.
I made up my own locking kit.
Once the gearbox & flywhell removed.
insert locking pin into front crank pulley.
remove small green covers from camshaft casings. fit camshaft locking tools.
Once you have them all in place the engine will be locked also the camshafts to,so no movement.
Then you can slacken and remove chain tensioners. then you can carry out removal of ims bearing.
i also had a cheap bearing removal tool from the internet. that fits inside the bearing with a small lip to pull out the ims bearing which worked fine.
so good luck. its not a
I did the IMS bearing on my 2001 3.2 s boxster.
Automatic will be no different apart from removal of box.
I made up my own locking kit.
Once the gearbox & flywhell removed.
insert locking pin into front crank pulley.
remove small green covers from camshaft casings. fit camshaft locking tools.
Once you have them all in place the engine will be locked also the camshafts to,so no movement.
Then you can slacken and remove chain tensioners. then you can carry out removal of ims bearing.
i also had a cheap bearing removal tool from the internet. that fits inside the bearing with a small lip to pull out the ims bearing which worked fine.
so good luck. its not a
12-16-2017, 12:07 AM
#4
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Hi There
I did the IMS bearing on my 2001 3.2 s boxster.
Automatic will be no different apart from removal of box.
I made up my own locking kit.
Once the gearbox & flywhell removed.
insert locking pin into front crank pulley.
remove small green covers from camshaft casings. fit camshaft locking tools.
Once you have them all in place the engine will be locked also the camshafts to,so no movement.
Then you can slacken and remove chain tensioners. then you can carry out removal of ims bearing.
i also had a cheap bearing removal tool from the internet. that fits inside the bearing with a small lip to pull out the ims bearing which worked fine.
so good luck. its not a
I did the IMS bearing on my 2001 3.2 s boxster.
Automatic will be no different apart from removal of box.
I made up my own locking kit.
Once the gearbox & flywhell removed.
insert locking pin into front crank pulley.
remove small green covers from camshaft casings. fit camshaft locking tools.
Once you have them all in place the engine will be locked also the camshafts to,so no movement.
Then you can slacken and remove chain tensioners. then you can carry out removal of ims bearing.
i also had a cheap bearing removal tool from the internet. that fits inside the bearing with a small lip to pull out the ims bearing which worked fine.
so good luck. its not a
01-08-2018, 05:01 PM
#6
Instructor
I rotated to TDC, locked the front crank pulley and then the cams. All stuff in the LN install kit.
Make sure to get an easy out like in the LN kit, esp if you have a dual row bearing.
Make sure to get an easy out like in the LN kit, esp if you have a dual row bearing.