When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Funny, today one after the other two boxsters came into our shop, both both clunking in the rear! Typical control arm bushing problem. The noise is annoying as can be and makes the car seem like it is falling apart. Have to replace the complete arm, but what a difference it makes.
Last edited by dr914; 01-05-2019 at 01:28 PM.
Reason: misspelling
Bought a Boxster S from our local indie. The car has a bad rattle from both sides in the rear, right one louder. He swore he couldn't find the source. I said it had to be the trailing arms, he was adamant it couldn't be them. I got a pair of used ones and replaced them. Rattle gone!
I bought a pair of these for my 02 986s I am going to put on in the next few days. I like the idea of having the replaceable Heim joint on it and the adjust-ability. And they are less expensive than the OEM Porsche part and since I have a pair of 996s also that make a slight amount of noise, these could save a ton of $.
keep in mind they are also heavy as hell. I considered these but decided it wasn't worth it. Also, can you buy just the replacement parts? In my example, a set of megan racing arms had some kind of odd 11/16s thread in it that didn't match the usual rod ends.
PorscheTech: Where did you find those arms? Thanks!
They are in Addison Texas, here is their facebook page. Their products seem to be indicative of Asian manufacture, but of decent quality.The suspension control arm page seems to be down at this time, I have messaged them to see whats up with it. I am not affiliated with them in any way. You can inquire about the arms on Monday to see if they are still available.https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...HJLdxDM3VDZBQs
keep in mind they are also heavy as hell. I considered these but decided it wasn't worth it. Also, can you buy just the replacement parts? In my example, a set of megan racing arms had some kind of odd 11/16s thread in it that didn't match the usual rod ends.
I agree they are heavier, but I don't intend to use any of my cars for competition so a little extra weight doesn't mean much to me. Back when I first learned of the ovaling cylinders and cracking heads nearly two decades ago, my first thought was if they had used about 10 more pounds of aluminum on the cylinders and head casting , they would have been bulletproof !!.But I do appreciate all the weight savings they have done in all the many other places.
I have messaged them about the replacement heim joints, and will let you know. I have not measured these yet to see if they are odd, or metric, but even if they are and not available , I don't think it will be much trouble to rethread it to a common 3/4 heim joint thread. I have built a few complete tube chasiss race cars and hand built complete suspensions for them, so this is not much of a step.
I have a2001 986 S. It sounds as if I have the same problem. Under acceleration, if I hit any bump in the road, it sounds as if the rear end of the car just got hit. A very loud clunk. Is this symptomatic of training arms? And is this a solo repair or are there other things I should consider replacing at the same time. Street use only.
The test whether its the trailing arms is as follows. Drive over the bump while under acceleration and braking. If the clunking goes away or is significantly reduced its the trailing arms. If its the same you have another problem.
The trailing arms are easy to replace with the right tools. Check the socket sizes you will need and get a high quality torque wrench, the right size box/open wrench to hold the other end of the nut/bolt and a good breaker bar. The bolt at the suspension end is under very high torque. You will need to put the rear of car on jack stands and remove the fender liners on both sides. There are DIY guides that you should read before doing it. I am very slow and it takes me about an hour per side to replace the trailing arms.
It will be a totally difference car after you have done the job.
The test whether its the trailing arms is as follows. Drive over the bump while under acceleration and braking. If the clunking goes away or is significantly reduced its the trailing arms. If its the same you have another problem.
The clunk is significantly harder under acceleration. I have not tried “braking” over the cracks in the road. I happen to have 2 virtually identical 2001 Boxster S’s. The other car is smooth and quiet.
This is a typical problem with these cars when they clunk rattle in the rear when hitting bumps. Almost sounds like the top frame is rattling because sounds like it is coming from that area, which is right above the area where the arm rattles
Does the shifter move when you change throttle settings? Having it clunk louder when accelerating sounds like it could be the motor mount that's shot or possibly a transmission mount.
12-12-2017, 11:48 AM
two clunking boxsters
