RussianTeddyBear

Hello.
Need help in understanding what to look at and what problems can be with it? At the moment i have 1 option-2009, 40.7K miles,2 owners,2.9L 255HP PDK.
I read on Russian Porsche Club that boxter/cayman had problems with Grooves in the cylinder. From what year and engine Porsche fixed this problem? Or its only for 986? Also, how much strong PDK?
Will use like a daily car (0.8 miles to work) and Maybe go to the track or for some trips around Houston (Dallas, Austin, Corpus Cristy).
Please, don't hit me hard, but I compare boxter VS miata-club 2014. Because want a car for fun.
Thank you!

Macster

The car in question is just a used car so a thorough used car check out goes a long way to providing you with the info you need to make an informed decision regarding whether to buy the car or give it a miss.

My usual response is to visit the car cold and with the A/C off -- you test this later -- turn the key on and verify all the warning lights come on then go off when the engine starts and runs. The CEL in particular.

Let the engine idle and get out and walk around the car looking it over. But keep an ear tuned to the engine. The engine should idle fast -- it is cold -- but should idle smoothly. You should not hear any distinct/regular ticking, knocking, squeaks, chirps, groaning, rumbly noises.

Check panel finishes, panel gaps (they should be even and consistent). Check the tires are N rated and in good condition. Look at the brake rotors for any signs of heat discoloration, excessive grooving, cracks, etc. If the lip around the outer edge of the rotor is approx. 1mm that's a sign the rotor is worn out and new brakes will be needed shortly.

Look into the radiator ducts. A build up of trash means you will need to budget for a bumper cover removal and radiator duct cleaning. A build up of trash also means likely the body water drains are full of trash.

These are located on either side of the battery under the front trunk lid.

To check these you'll need a Torx tool kit with the security bits so you can remove the Torx screws that hold the plastic panels over the body water drains.

Be sure you check along the door bottoms for any signs of water/dampness and under the seats for any dampness. If the body water drains are blocked water -- from rain or washing -- can collect and overflow and this puts water into the cabin. It just so happens the security module is located under one of the seats and this puts it right where any water in the cabin is sure to collect.

After the engine has idled a while have the seller take you on a test ride. The route should be around 15 miles long and selected so the driver can demo the car as you intend to use it. You want to experience the car in city stop/go driving, boulevard cruising, and on the highway at high way speeds.

Early on with the PDK cold have the driver do a k-turn. You want to verify the PDK can handle changes in direction without any issues.

After the 15 mile test ride back at the starting place switch seats and you drive the car over the same route and drive the car the same way.

Due the k-turn again this time with the PDK fully up to temperature.

After your test drive if you still like the car then give it a used car check out. Search for the check list techs use when CPO'ing a car. While you can do all the checks/tests you can do a number of them.

If after all of the above if you still like the car and believe you can buy it for an agreeable sum of money then arrange for a PPI.

Among other things this gets the car in the air so a thorough check can be made for any issues from underneath the car. Primarly the issues are leaks. Every gasket, seal, o-ring, hose, hose fitting, hydraulic line, line fitting, dust boot gets checked for any leak sign.

Regarding "grooves" I believe you are referring to bore scoring? I have seen some reports of this occuring. I have no real sense of the risk this presents. I know some sources have indicated the problem is wide spread but I note some of these sources offer insurance or service plans which are supposed to "protect" one against this happening.

Also, I'm not necessarily in agreement with its root cause being due to an inherent problem with the engine. The appearance of bore scoring can be explained by casting/manufacturing defects. 'course, if one has a car/engine that experiences this problem regardless of the reason it is no fun.

About all you can do is ensure the car is not currently manifesting any signs of any engine issues, which means the engine should be "scary noise free" at cold start, during idle, on the road, idling after being on the road for nearly an hour.

The engine should not smoke at any time other than possibly at cold start. This is "normal" but the smoking should be brief and the engine should not manifest any untoward behavior concurrent with the smoking (or at any other time).

If the fear of bore scoring making an appearance will distract from your enjoyment of the car arrange to find/buy a car with a warranty or a car you can purchase an aftermarket warranty and from a company that has a rep for honoring legitmate claims for things such as bore scoring.

Short trips are not the ideal usage for these vehicles. You can't help your short work commute but you should strive to use the car for longer periods of time say at least once a week and for 30 minutes or longer. You want to get the engine fully up to temperature and keep it there long enough the water in the oil -- a normal byproduct of combustion -- is boiled out.

The short trips may not be enough to keep the battery charged up so you might have to use a battery maintainer.

Even if you do the above longer drive once a week you will still need to change the oil more often -- at least once a year -- and if you track the car at all be sure you show up at the track with *fresh* oil in the engine.