GT3 front sway bar adjustment question (997)
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
GT3 front sway bar adjustment question (997)
I'm about to put on a GT3 front sway bar on a 997.1S. There are 5 adjustment on it. Which one should I try first? I'll readjust if I need to later.
The car is stock with -1.1 front and -1.5 rear camber running RE-71Rs, slightly up sized to 245 mm in the front, stock 305 mm on the rear. I'm usually running 30/35 psi cold. I have spacers on both front and rear.
The car is stock with -1.1 front and -1.5 rear camber running RE-71Rs, slightly up sized to 245 mm in the front, stock 305 mm on the rear. I'm usually running 30/35 psi cold. I have spacers on both front and rear.
#2
How does the car handle now?
Logical start would be right in the middle. Autocross is kinda weird in that often it goes against the common wisdom that more front bar equals more understeer.
Especially on strut cars, the increased transient response and the reduction in camber loss from roll from more front bar often ends up being the better choice.
Best case scenario you have a single event where you can try soft->middle->stiff->then back to soft so you can see how the adjustment affects how the car drives.
Good luck, figuring it all out is part of the fun.
Logical start would be right in the middle. Autocross is kinda weird in that often it goes against the common wisdom that more front bar equals more understeer.
Especially on strut cars, the increased transient response and the reduction in camber loss from roll from more front bar often ends up being the better choice.
Best case scenario you have a single event where you can try soft->middle->stiff->then back to soft so you can see how the adjustment affects how the car drives.
Good luck, figuring it all out is part of the fun.
#3
I'm about to put on a GT3 front sway bar on a 997.1S. There are 5 adjustment on it. Which one should I try first? I'll readjust if I need to later.
The car is stock with -1.1 front and -1.5 rear camber running RE-71Rs, slightly up sized to 245 mm in the front, stock 305 mm on the rear. I'm usually running 30/35 psi cold. I have spacers on both front and rear.
The car is stock with -1.1 front and -1.5 rear camber running RE-71Rs, slightly up sized to 245 mm in the front, stock 305 mm on the rear. I'm usually running 30/35 psi cold. I have spacers on both front and rear.
Run -1.5 square 0 toe F and 1/16 rear toe each side. Run 2nd or 3rd hole. Tire's should be 29 cold 32 hot both F & R. Kill the spacers and next time you buy tires run a 255 up front.
#4
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Car is fairly neutral, especially on exit but I wouldn't mind a bit better turn in. Those RE-71Rs make a world of difference.
That's what I thought, start with the middle setting and adjust. I'll try do it in between runs.
-1.1 is all 997 C2S will allow on the front short of going to GT3 LCAs. I know, I should have ordered 255s for the front. Next time.
I'm not sure I would want that little pressure on the rear. I want it to rotate.
Thanks.
That's what I thought, start with the middle setting and adjust. I'll try do it in between runs.
-1.1 is all 997 C2S will allow on the front short of going to GT3 LCAs. I know, I should have ordered 255s for the front. Next time.
I'm not sure I would want that little pressure on the rear. I want it to rotate.
Thanks.
#5
Drifting
As I recall, the GT3 bar is stiffer on the softest setting than the stock 997 bar, so you may want to start on the softest setting and go from there. I ended up in hole # 2 when I put a GT3 front bar on my 987.2S. As you're camber-limited, the impact will be gains in rear grip coming from increasing the effective spring-rate of the front relative to the rear (less wheelspin on corner exit!), and gains in front grip from reducing dynamic camber loss. A little stiffer front swaybar counter-intuitively can help decrease understeer, but going too stiff will only increase understeer. Like Burglar says, you'll need to trial & error it until you find what you like: you might want to start on full soft, go stiffer until you start getting more understeer, then back off. Also bear in mind your driving techniques may be inducing understeer and working on that could be more important than any mods to the car.
Larger front tires will help a lot, too. It's amazing the difference in handling at the limit that just a few % difference in contact patch shape can make.
Larger front tires will help a lot, too. It's amazing the difference in handling at the limit that just a few % difference in contact patch shape can make.
#6
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Makes sense. I definitely have to have some tools to play with it on the next autocross. I can't wait to try it. The car is fun already and sounds like the bar will make it more so.
Thanks.
Thanks.
#7
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I run my GT3 front bar on the middle hole. But I'm running a base car and not a S. I could only get 1.1 neg. camber in the front and run 0 toe. The rear 1.8 neg. camber and a 1/16 toe in. This is with a set of RE71r 255 35 18 front 285 30 18 back.
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#8
Rennlist Member
Car is fairly neutral, especially on exit but I wouldn't mind a bit better turn in. Those RE-71Rs make a world of difference.
That's what I thought, start with the middle setting and adjust. I'll try do it in between runs.
-1.1 is all 997 C2S will allow on the front short of going to GT3 LCAs. I know, I should have ordered 255s for the front. Next time.
I'm not sure I would want that little pressure on the rear. I want it to rotate.
Thanks.
That's what I thought, start with the middle setting and adjust. I'll try do it in between runs.
-1.1 is all 997 C2S will allow on the front short of going to GT3 LCAs. I know, I should have ordered 255s for the front. Next time.
I'm not sure I would want that little pressure on the rear. I want it to rotate.
Thanks.