Steering Feels " Light " under hard acceleration
#1
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Steering Feels " Light " under hard acceleration
i've done a tune , exhaust and i'm currently running on race gas , not sure what power it's making but it's MUCH stronger than the 91 octane tune. anyway, i am now starting to feel the front end release a bit under hard low speed acceleration. what do people usually do for this issue? i assume some suspension mods are in order.
#3
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#4
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Proper alignment coupled with something like the dsc box makes the car much more stable at high speeds on the track. Out of the box alignment, while within factory spec can yield that light out of control feeling in the front. As an example, my car was like +.4/.6 camber stock, all over the place on the track, aligned to -1.0 up front suddenly super stable. Remember what the weight transfer is doing under hard acceleration as you load and unload the chassis.
It's the easiest, although least sexy, first step. Before you start throwing money at suspension mods be sure your baseline is solid. Suspension mods more than anything else can transform a nice street car into a rattling unbearable rough riding sob that's no longer fun to drive. Been there done that got the t shirt.....
C
It's the easiest, although least sexy, first step. Before you start throwing money at suspension mods be sure your baseline is solid. Suspension mods more than anything else can transform a nice street car into a rattling unbearable rough riding sob that's no longer fun to drive. Been there done that got the t shirt.....
C
#5
This is basically what my mechanic told me in an hour long conversation about my mod-itches for the turbo. His workshop looking like porsche heaven yesterday (gt3's, gt4, cup cars) helped in my decision to just listen to him.
A good alignment, eibach springs, the dsc box and call it a day for street driving. Add semi-slicks if you like.
#7
It's all weight transfer and balance. My 930 use to lift the front end under acceleration. Some addition coil over springs over the rear shocks helped a bit. Under full power you cant expect the front to take a solid set.
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#8
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I've experienced such front-end float under heavy accleration in every rear-engined P-car I've driven and just attributed it to weight transfer off the front end. It would make sense that heavier sprngs in the rear of the car would counter this to some degree, and necessary now that the OP has tuned the car and increased the HP.
#9
Steering Feels " Light " under hard acceleration
My front wheels aren't coming off the ground but they're getting closer as I add power. Lol. Seriously, when I switched to the E85 tune there was a noticeable difference of weight transfer coming off the front wheels for the first few seconds of launch.
https://youtu.be/RrOveiaa5kA
^^^ not my car btw.
https://youtu.be/RrOveiaa5kA
^^^ not my car btw.
#10
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My front wheels aren't coming off the ground but they're getting closer as I add power. Lol. Seriously, when I switched to the E85 tune there was a noticeable difference of weight transfer coming off the front wheels for the first few seconds of launch.
https://youtu.be/RrOveiaa5kA
^^^ not my car btw.
https://youtu.be/RrOveiaa5kA
^^^ not my car btw.
#11
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I'd expect that adding the DSC and tying increased stiffness in shock to acceleration would help put the power down and reduce front end lift.
#12
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My current car just has dsc, gt2 rear bar and Porsche motors ports rear toe links, stock springs......works well.
#13
My guy told me he can get a good alignment with stock hardware. I also have the problem that all the tarret etc stuff is considered illegal parts in my country, although I might get away with porsche motorsport parts.
#14
Starting with DSC box will help in 2 ways. It will firm the shocks under acceleration which will reduce the rear squat and also the front lift.
Alignment is a must, as mentioned by TT Surgeon, dialing in some static negative camber will keep the front geometry closer to neutral while accelerating. If your alignment shop can, have them jack up the nose up 1-2" to simulate acceleration and see what happens to the alignment. You don't want the front wheels to get toed in or positive cambered if possible.
Suspension changes will be your final piece of the puzzle, but then you need to nail down your goals - low speed launches (drag) or roll on, or track. For low speed you want the soft squat and lift to maximize traction out of the box, for roll ons and 100+ work, you want the stiff, short travel suspension.
Alignment is a must, as mentioned by TT Surgeon, dialing in some static negative camber will keep the front geometry closer to neutral while accelerating. If your alignment shop can, have them jack up the nose up 1-2" to simulate acceleration and see what happens to the alignment. You don't want the front wheels to get toed in or positive cambered if possible.
Suspension changes will be your final piece of the puzzle, but then you need to nail down your goals - low speed launches (drag) or roll on, or track. For low speed you want the soft squat and lift to maximize traction out of the box, for roll ons and 100+ work, you want the stiff, short travel suspension.