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Needs to be down!!!! This sits atop of the bumper stop. If you install concave up, it grabs the whole assembly and prevents it from turning. As it turns it will "pop". You keep doing this and eventually the strut snaps. It happened to me and I thought "oh it's just settling in". Yep it settled into separate pieces.
Is there a trick/tool to hold the shaft? I had to "customize" a wrench just to get in there, but now the shaft is turning with the nut. I hit it with some PB Blaster before hand as well. I have PASM, so no internal hex on the shaft. Is that large washer keyed to the shaft? I really don't want to pull struts and springs if I don't have to.
If this does fix it, it would explain a lot. I have read several threads regarding this issue and people have had the issue with stock and aftermarke springs. I talked with someone at a meet a couple weeks ago who had the same issue on his bone stock 911 GTS.
Thanks
I made my own tool and it's awesome. Wish I had a way to patent it and sell it to you guys. Very simple and it even places the top washer to the specified angle. Yes the angle is important the work shop manual warns about it.
Can you share the page regarding the top washer angle placement? I'm not understanding why the angle is important. You are talking about the washer right under the nut with the two notches in it?
The top washer is keyed to the shock shaft so if you hold the washer with a spanner wrench (I used the end of Allen wrench jammed in the notch) and a open box wrench that has a goose neck(?) you should be able to tighten and loosen the nut. It will be more challenging to see if I can loosen the nut with the coilover in the car, as I too don't really want to remove the coilovers.
That washer that installs concave down, it didn't come off the rubber top mount when I took mine apart so I didn't even have a chance to mess the orientation. It was luckily stuck to the rubber top mount.
I took care not to spin the Pasm wire, especially if you try the modified impact socket. I can only imagine if you spin the shock shaft the Pasm wire could be damaged assuming the other end of the wires are fixed and by spinning the shaft you could eventually put tension on the wire to cause it to snap or break from their connections internally.
The angle is necessary because the tool needed to hold the strut needs to fill the full depth to hold assembly as you tighten the nut. The angle Porsche provides allows the tool to grip the washer that has the cutouts at 3 and 9 o'clock position. If it is not placed correctly, the tools extensions are blocked by the mount.
So I wanted to provide an update, I was able to loosen the nut with the coilover in the car, using the same method of using an Allen wrench jammed in the notch to hold the shock shaft from spinning. Backed off 1 turn the top washer was loose no longer compressed to the rubber core of the camber plate. First drive, it was clanking on every bump, which was sort of expected given the shock shaft now has play in it and rattling around.
I'm not sure how you can back it off to be flush with the shock shaft, that would be likely anothe 5-6 full turns and even more play.
I tightened to just the point the large washer is no longer moving freely. Immediately I noticed the suspension didn't make the loud pop when pulling off the driveway. At full chock, it still seems to make a more subtle noise but not nearly as loud, and not the characteristic of loud pop after returning the steering wheel to center after making a sharp turn. Now it seems a bit binding when going full turn in either direction. Hope this helps anyone who is hyper sensitive to noises with their car who want to make it right.
If you take a look at the top of the coilover from inside the frunk, where the Pasm wire comes out, there's a nut and immedialy below is a large diameter washer. Said washer need to be held tight, otherwise turning the shock shaft just spins the shaft. Again this only applies to cars with Pasm, which I believe are most turbos. The washer has two notches 180 from one another for a porsche tool, but again I improvised as the nut is not extremely tight. Hope this helps.
If you take a look at the top of the coilover from inside the frunk, where the Pasm wire comes out, there's a nut and immedialy below is a large diameter washer. Said washer need to be held tight, otherwise turning the shock shaft just spins the shaft. Again this only applies to cars with Pasm, which I believe are most turbos. The washer has two notches 180 from one another for a porsche tool, but again I improvised as the nut is not extremely tight. Hope this helps.
06-14-2016, 07:04 PM
