nzskater

Do they have a defined life expectancy, or is failure relatively binary? Curious as to whether or not you'd include these in a preventative maintenance schedule.

turbofever

Mine with 40k miles looked slightly oxidized. My tuner recommended I change them so I did

saabin

Not a "binary" failure typically.. They just get lazy and don't respond as quickly. They did make a difference in my data logs (lambda deltas) and I would recommend those with tuned engines do them as part of a preventative maintenance schedule..

nzskater

Thanks for that. Is there any way to log (with a Durametric) and pickup on them fading?

My car isn't tuned, but I drive it like I stole it and it's done 129k km.

saabin

You could log rpm, throttle position, and lambda for banks 1 and 2 with your durametric. Do a couple of 3rd and 4th gear pulls..
I have a plotting tool that I use to show the lambda delta at WOT throughout the rpm range to see how different they are..

Turboslut

Do you guys go to dealer to scoop these up or is Autozone/PepBoys carry as good as any?

Ibanezgod

Got mine from FCP $111 each, not bad pricing

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/por...nsor-911-17307

you can go on amazon and find them for $58, but they should be Bosch. I couldn't tell what they were on Amazon so I didn't get them there.

saabin

Jared, were those you got from FCP the correct length?

I originally got some of the Bosch 17307s but they were about 6 inches too short.. I could have made it work, but wanted to keep the cable/wire routing the same as stock.. also, the 17307s I got didn't have the extra long grey silicone boot on it. Just decided to return them and get the ones from Porsche.

Ibanezgod

Correct, I received the same ones, but I made them work. They were shorter than the OEM, but, however they fit. I was a little worried about the silicone grey boot missing, but not sure if it's necessary. I was going to put them on and secure them with zipties, but was a PITA trying to reach in there. Would be easier to wrap them with some type of heat resistant tape. porsche wants $240 PER O2 sensor... that was nuts. If anyone here recommends added protection that these may be lacking without the silicone grey boot, let me know.

But so far so good with about 80 miles on the new O2 sensor.

saabin

Ok, cool. Nice job on making it work..

Just FYI, Sonnen sells the Porsche ones for $155 each.. Not as cheap as yours, but not $240..

turbofever

on the pre cat sensors the (blue cables) the grey section just after the sensor is to prevent heat off the cat burning through the sensor cables.

I would just keep an eye on the cables and make sure they haven't melted after a few week of running.

my tuner told me not to buy aftermarket for this reason buy PORSCHE version!
pelican parts have an image that looks identical to the Porsche specific verison although I just listened to my tuner to save the run around in case the version pelican sold was like your set that was not insulated and shorter.

as for post cat 02 sensors these are the ones with the grey connector and black cables I ordered them from pelican parts for $100 each side.

these were identical to my oem ones and were also bosch.

lesson of the day, buy oem Porsche brand pre 02 sensors and you can buy the regular bosch 02 sensors from pelican parts and save $100 per side!

here is a link to the post cat sensors I got. they even have the oem plastic mounting tab.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Inf...14&SVSVSI=4819

the last thing I should likely do is spark plugs, I installed the rs coolers and will data log soon. if I have any issues with timing ill do plugs again as mine currently have less than 7k miles on them. I do not know if they were gapped correctly though as they were dealer installed before I owned the car.

Ibanezgod

Was thinking of wrapping it with some of this tape

ctony66

I used the bosch ones (shorter) and they have been on for a few months and are fine. Only the ones from porsche are the correct length unfortunately.

Ibanezgod

So it seems my otherside came loose during the track today. Not sure what the heck is up. But I tracked today and then spent 3 hours pulling apart the rear and adjusting the rubber O ring and pushing the Y pipe and intercooler together. I drive home and hear the whoosh again. No cel though.... Yet. How can I make the intercooler pipes and Y pipe more firm so they don't separate?

You can see the photo here where it separated. My nephew tried his best....

ctony66

That is strange. They usually clip in pretty solid. You can try removing the clip and squeezing it so it's a tighter fit. have you replaced the seals? I see you have black ones and mine are green. Also they need to be completely dry when installed. I put heavy silicone grease on mine at one point (thin coating) and they leaked real bad. When you clipped them in did you tug and twist them real hard to be sure they were clipped on both sides?