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I haven't been able to find a cheap supply of 2x10mm F Viton o-rings (and I really tried). The best I could come up with was A Viton that is not as resilient.
Just curious -- do you know for sure that Viton F is required?
I ask only because standard Viton (aka FKM/FKP) o-rings appear readily available for cheap (Grainger has them, for example). Internet searches suggest that standard grades of Viton would likely be adequate for fuel/engine oil resistance, although some special Viton grades are clearly more chemical resistant. But I'm not a materials science expert, just some dude that stayed in a Holiday Inn once, so please don't take this as a recommendation -- merely curiosity.
Although Porsche is far from perfect, I have a hard time believing they would specify a F Viton o-ring in an area where a lesser A Viton o-ring would suffice, especially considering the pretty large part price difference.
Viton® F:
Viton® F is a grade of fluoroelastomer terpolymers, that is they are polymerized from three monomers, vinyl fluoride (VF2), hexafluoropropylene (HFP), and tetrafluoroethylene (TFE). Viton® F fluoroelastomers offer the best fluid resistance of all Viton® types. F types are particularly useful in applications requiring resistance to fuel permeation. There is a range of Viton® F grades to accommodate various manufacturing requirements.
I haven't been able to find a cheap supply of 2x10mm F Viton o-rings (and I really tried). The best I could come up with was A Viton that is not as resilient. I did find a Chinese source that claimed to have them, but they were green and although you can make different material o-rings in pretty much any color, it is very unlikely that Viton o-rings would be made in the color green. I think the reason they are not included with the oil filter is because they are much more expensive than a regular o-ring.
Dan
Thanks for the input. I've never found them either. Guess I'll keep paying Porsche the $8, which by my maths and https://o-ring.info/en/tools/o-ring-weight-calculator/ is about 33% more than the price of gold by weight.
I changed my oil maybe 300 miles ago with 5W40 Motul but did NOT change that small O-rin since the Mann filter didn't come with one. Should have known better... now when the car sits for a few days it makes that awful rattling noise and the RPMs dip while it's building oil pressure on cold start. It doesn't make that sound when it's being started regularly.
I am going to change the oil again with 5W50 motul sport ester because it's so dang hot here now, and also replace the small oil filter seal. Hopefully that takes care of it.
Is it safe to go 5-50 weight oil in a daily and in colder climates? Any concerns with bearing and other part wear due to running 50 weight on a street in a daily?
5w50 is Porsche approved and tends to be a higher quality oil (basestocks) to meet that spec. It's still a 5 weight on the low end, so unless you regularly start your car in below freezing conditions, it's fine. On the high end, the difference in thickness of a 50wt vs a 40wt is negligible in terms of efficiency/flow, but could be very meaningful in terms of maintaining oil pressure under hard running, high temperature conditions. If you don't drive in high temps or drive really hard, 0w40 is probably more than adequate. Personally, I prefer a thicker oil in Houston temps, particularly since the car doesn't see very low temperatures.
5w50 is Porsche approved and tends to be a higher quality oil (basestocks) to meet that spec. It's still a 5 weight on the low end, so unless you regularly start your car in below freezing conditions, it's fine. On the high end, the difference in thickness of a 50wt vs a 40wt is negligible in terms of efficiency/flow, but could be very meaningful in terms of maintaining oil pressure under hard running, high temperature conditions. If you don't drive in high temps or drive really hard, 0w40 is probably more than adequate. Personally, I prefer a thicker oil in Houston temps, particularly since the car doesn't see very low temperatures.
Thanks! For me the main goal is to quiet down the normal chatter of these engines.
Bone dry! Replaced O ring started and verified. To hearts content, full of oil! Thanks! Switching back to Mobil 1 from Motul. Ain’t spending the extra cash. Going 50w.
Bone dry! Replaced O ring started and verified. To hearts content, full of oil! Thanks! Switching back to Mobil 1 from Motul. Ain’t spending the extra cash. Going 50w.
Eeeek. You think it was bone dry due to the aged seal? Oh and how’d you check, did it go all over the place as you pulled it off with oil in there?
Nope. Bone dry! Filled with new O ring, started waited 1 hour. Opened oil came out! Will check tomorrow, have had car since 2011 never knew about that. Dealer said “what little O ring, we never change that one”.
Thanks for this thread guys. I had a major panzer racket at startup with my Mezger. Ran multiple oils over multiple changes. I personally prefer Amsoil's European classic, 5w-30. Still had the rattle at start. Changed the small o ring, which upon inspection, was compromised with a chunk gouged out. Problem solved. As usual, the forum provides the answers I seek.
Happy 4th to all of us here in the colonies. God bless America! ?? ?? ??
09-10-2018, 08:57 PM
