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I just purchased an 07 Turbo and during my search I wouldnt have accepted over 100 in range 4. Do you have total operating hours on the engine? If it happened over 200 hours ago thats a good sign everything is good. But at that high a number in 4 I would want a trusted tech to give an ok on the engine. The 2 and 1 in ranges 5 and 6 can pretty much be ignored.
I just purchased an 07 Turbo and during my search I wouldnt have accepted over 100 in range 4. Do you have total operating hours on the engine? If it happened over 200 hours ago thats a good sign everything is good. But at that high a number in 4 I would want a trusted tech to give an ok on the engine. The 2 and 1 in ranges 5 and 6 can pretty much be ignored.
Car has 46K miles. Indie shop gave the PPI a thumbs up. Thanks for the insight.
The car has been flashed, I'd use it as a bargaining chip. Who did the ppi?
Type 1/2s are meaningless, the 5/6s are artifact, minimal 3/4s.
I wonder if this was a test drive from someone who drives an automatic? You know, some dude is on the limiter in 3rd and tries for 4th. But instead of pulling the stick straight back, he pulls toward him and grabs 2nd. I wonder if he heard the rear wheels chirp
Find out the total engine hours; my bet is that these are very recent which would be of some concern. The car appears to be flashed and driven hard. Anything in the 4s will make resale more difficult, for the same reasons we are discussing, so take that into account.
Like TT Surgeon said, If you really want to proceed I would use it as a bargaining tool.
how do you read that thing? What if you're in 1st and you bounce off the rev limiter... is that an over rev or is it if you downshift and miss a gear and go into the red?
how do you read that thing? What if you're in 1st and you bounce off the rev limiter... is that an over rev or is it if you downshift and miss a gear and go into the red?
The overrevvs happen when you downshift at a speed that forces the engine over redline. The ranges represent how far over redline the RPMs went and for how many ignitions. 1 being less than 200 RPMs over and 6 being over (I think) 1300 RPMs over.
Just bouncing it off the RL will trip type 1/2s, raising the RL in a flash will trip anything over 6750, no matter the raised ceiling, it's still read as an error by the ecu whether the ignition cuts out or not.
If my math is right, that car spent about 7min around the redline of 6750 in its life. That's basically a track day or two. Remember, the internals of these engines, unlike the 997.2, were designed for 24hr endurance racing at WOT, they can generally take it quite well.
The overrevvs happen when you downshift at a speed that forces the engine over redline. The ranges represent how far over redline the RPMs went and for how many ignitions. 1 being less than 200 RPMs over and 6 being over (I think) 1300 RPMs over.
That's just plain ol' wrong. Correct shifting at redline will give you over-revs, because the engine's inertia will take it past the limiter. To Chris' point, that's how most 1-3 over-revs happen. The 4's, 5's, and especially 6's are indications of driver error and especially bad on the engine... However they don't mean the engine is not gonna make it down the block.
If you want the car still, do a leak down test and see what's up. That's still a better test than an ECU counter.
Time since the revs is a significant factor. Also, I'm aware of a tuned 997 turbo that pulled range 4s from a good bounce off the rev-limiter. Recent 5s and 6s are worrisome though...
I'd pass. Those high range over revs just happened at 1602 (28 hours ago) then again at 1611 (19 hours ago). I bet someone test driving it screwed up bad. Had they occurred over 100 hours ago or more, then maybe. But high over revs that recent is a huge red flag to me.
07-23-2015, 02:00 PM
Please advise on this DME Report
