roybotnik

I purchased a used exhaust and I'm wondering what kind of spare gaskets, nuts, special tools, etc I should have on hand if I decide to install it myself. I had a lot of maintenance and repairs done recently so I kind of want to install this exhaust myself to see how the shop did with a few other things.

TT Surgeon

13mm short hand wrenches, spare turbo studs and nuts, plenty of wd40 to soak everything for two days. Plan on 4 -5 hrs first time.

roybotnik

Is there a gasket between the turbo and cat?

Where can I pick up the studs and nuts? Having hard time searching pelican parts..

I believe the exhaust was off the car to replace the crank pulley so hopefully it won't be really seized on there.

phillipj

You can get everything you need from Suncoast or Sunset. Call the guys at either place and they will take care of you. Or you can just order from the dealer..

Might want to get some spare fasteners for the wheel liners if you are going to remove them just in case.

Make sure you torque the turbo studs to spec. If you over tighten them they can break. It's a pretty easy job. Just takes a little time. If your system is of good quality the fitment should not be an issue. My Techart fit perfectly and I know the EP's do as well.

speed21

Yes there is a gasket either side. Best to replace those. Also have a die nut and thread tap (male and female) on hand along with a stud remover. These are a must from my own experience. The exhaust may not necessarily have come off as the engine is usually dropped with the system attached. Also when you order a new set of studs and nuts i believe stef said they were for a 996tt which apparently does not use the same one way lock nuts as the 997tt. Best to use nuts that dont have the crimp lock on the thread as the threads get damaged when they come off at any time, that is if they dont lock entirely and pull the studs out of the housings. GL.

roybotnik

Thanks for the info guys!

It's actually Leo's old TechArt so the fitment should be good unless someone bent it up. Looking at my shop receipt it looks like they actually replaced header gaskets... they must have removed the exhaust+turbos as one piece when installing the new crank pulley. Weird. I will call them tomorrow.

I'll also call suncoast and ask them about these parts. I wanted to order some brake pads from them anyways. Is the die nut and thread tap something I would get from suncoast too?

jcnesq

I didn't install mine, but I do remember there are gaskets (2) that should NOT be reused. Also there was a stripped thread in one of the attachment points for the sensors (bought a slightly used Milltek exhaust from a RL'r).

speed21

No. I'd get those from a tool supplies shop. Ask for a T piece (for the thread tap) and a die nut for a metric 13mm nut/stud. If you manage to get the studs out of the turbo housings you are really better to run the tap through each thread to clean everything up before you wind in a new stud. If you don't there is always the risk of the new stud locking up in the thread on the way in. If the studs manage to stay in the housings then the threads on the nut end will all need a freshen up on the threads with a die nut.Prevention is better than cure GL.

TT Surgeon

I believe it's a 8mm 1.50 pitch thread, 13mm is the bolt size, I wouldn't drill it out to 13mm The studs are readily avail at any p dealer.
I wouldn't sweat it, I've never had to replace one.
GL

TT-911

Same here, they came of out (and in) like brand new ones. No prob at all.

roybotnik

I experimented a little today just to see what I was up against. On the passenger side turbo, the nuts are too small for a 13mm socket. One is much smaller, one is slightly smaller. Someone rounded them out at some point . I might take it in afterall...

Any reason I shouldn't just use ordinary M8 nuts on these studs? Are the Porsche ones made out of unobtanium?

Igooz

^Roy, I changed the exhaust system on my 7TT a few years ago by myself and installed the wonderful, low priced, non-resonating, one-can Tubi!! I have a lift and it made it an easier job and it was a fairly straightforward job. You just have to be patient with it a little bit.

Unfortunately sometimes the techs in exuberance do some damage and then it takes additional work to reverse their work...

all the nuts/bolts on pcars are metric so a good metric tool set should work well on your car. In fact, Porsche actually use high/higher quality fasteners, so if you have a good tool set (Snap-on, Hazet, etc.) you will get a very nice socket-to-bolt connection whereas when you have Chinese-junk-fasteners-to-Chinese-junk-socket sets it is a different story...

Good luck...

speed21

I'd say the car has had the system on and off before then which is not uncommon. The 13mm I mentioned is the actual socket size that fits the nuts, not ever suggesting that a 13mm drill be used or anything of that nature. For a person to suggest they have never experienced having to replace a stud or nut during their "claimed multiple" exhaust change outs is not even remotely believable. It may be possible to get away without having stud replacement issues and thread recovery but these cases would be the rare exception and not the general rule. The fact remains the factory nuts are a permalock design which when removed from the stud thread will cause damage to a certain degree, some more so than others. If there has been no thread damage at all then that can only mean the nuts on the threads were not factory genuine. My contacts within Porsche confirm today stud/nut issues are common on these cars during an exhaust removal, but as a Porsche workshop that's no big deal as is the case for anyone experienced in this type of work.

For anyone here to advise that you don't need to make any preparations and to just head off into the job armed with a socket and wrench and a can of wd40 is total nonsense and i would never advise this to a novice seeking to take the job on. That is very bad advice.

My best advice to you here is that if you are unfamiliar and/or feel uncomfortable dealing with removing rounded nuts or dealing with studs, removals or thread recovery and the likes then i would definitely use a reputable workshop familiar with the car (and the job) rather than getting stuck on anything that you are are very likely going to be faced with during the course of this job. I would also advise it is always best to have your preparations in order for this job in the likely event you need to cater for the types of problems often found during a change-out on this 997tt.1 car.

TT Surgeon

Paul, I've never broken a stud, EVER. You just have to be careful, that's all.
Now, that's not the same as having one back out, sure that happens, just double nut and reinstall. Again, no big deal. Probably is a good idea to run a tap down and chase the threads. Just double check the 1.50 pitch, some are 1.25 on older turbos.
C

speed21

Chris i've never broken a stud either but i've sure encountered some issues where the odd stud comes half way out and then gets stuck solid. So in favor of risking going further trying to wind the stud out only to have it break/snap i've ended up deciding its best to wind it back in (after getting the nut off) and which has also had its issues to just getting the stud back in because the thread is semi spoiled on the housing end, and, once the stud is back in far enough, have then run a die nut over the damaged thread on the nut end so the new nut can run on cleanly without risk of freezing half way on which can happen on a spoiled thread. Bottom line is this job can either go smoothly or be very problematic and you need to be prepared for it.