DIY oil change on 997 TT.
#1
DIY oil change on 997 TT.
Looking at some of the tutorials on doing an oil change on the Turbo and am particularly interested in Kevin's filter prelube theory. I agree with the prelube concept in principle but wondered about where the litre of oil he recommend's poured in the middle of the filter goes.
The plastic centre on the filter housing has an O ring on it and it to obviously stop oil pushing through it? so why oil down the same hole it fills. Where does it actually go and why does the filter need to be in place to do this?
The other question I have is in relation to the C4 fuse. I was looking for the index card to show this fuse as injectors from the reading the original post but see it is designated to the fuel pump. Is this the correct fuse?
Thanks in anticipation.
R.
The plastic centre on the filter housing has an O ring on it and it to obviously stop oil pushing through it? so why oil down the same hole it fills. Where does it actually go and why does the filter need to be in place to do this?
The other question I have is in relation to the C4 fuse. I was looking for the index card to show this fuse as injectors from the reading the original post but see it is designated to the fuel pump. Is this the correct fuse?
Thanks in anticipation.
R.
#2
Race Director
i agree w/ the theory that it helps in and 1-2 seconds start up, however I think its less of an issue w/ synthetic oils. I do this on all my cars.
Last edited by kosmo; 10-23-2012 at 09:21 AM.
#3
Rennlist Member
Looking at some of the tutorials on doing an oil change on the Turbo and am particularly interested in Kevin's filter prelube theory. I agree with the prelube concept in principle but wondered about where the litre of oil he recommend's poured in the middle of the filter goes.
The plastic centre on the filter housing has an O ring on it and it to obviously stop oil pushing through it? so why oil down the same hole it fills. Where does it actually go and why does the filter need to be in place to do this?
The other question I have is in relation to the C4 fuse. I was looking for the index card to show this fuse as injectors from the reading the original post but see it is designated to the fuel pump. Is this the correct fuse?
Thanks in anticipation.
R.
The plastic centre on the filter housing has an O ring on it and it to obviously stop oil pushing through it? so why oil down the same hole it fills. Where does it actually go and why does the filter need to be in place to do this?
The other question I have is in relation to the C4 fuse. I was looking for the index card to show this fuse as injectors from the reading the original post but see it is designated to the fuel pump. Is this the correct fuse?
Thanks in anticipation.
R.
#4
Rennlist Member
There's a whole DIY section right here in Rennlist - probably can find it there or also here among other places:
http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/t...sche-911s.html
http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/t...sche-911s.html
#6
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So or later I'll read the post...
The split case engine has the main oil galley plumbed directly to the cam housings. The oil filter assy has a stand pipe mounted directly to the Bank 1 case oil galley. When you pour the fresh oil into the center of the oil filter, the oil goes directly into the critical oil components.
A few quarts will do the job. You can do this without the NEW oil filter, however, it's tough to get the oil right where you need it. When you install the oil filter, it seals against the interior of the fiter housing.
Removing the fuse for the fuel pump will allow you to crank the starter over to build oil pressure. The oil pump does NOT have enough oil in the engine case because you have just drained it. The oil in the main oil tank has a check valve that does not allow oil to move to the oil pump. With the starter turning the engine over, oil is moving thru the engine galley (like the one you just filled up with 2 quarts). The cycle is completed when oil is available for the oil pump.
One thing that one quickly notices is, the amount of time it takes the engine to build prime. It's at least 25 to 35 seconds.
The split case engine has the main oil galley plumbed directly to the cam housings. The oil filter assy has a stand pipe mounted directly to the Bank 1 case oil galley. When you pour the fresh oil into the center of the oil filter, the oil goes directly into the critical oil components.
A few quarts will do the job. You can do this without the NEW oil filter, however, it's tough to get the oil right where you need it. When you install the oil filter, it seals against the interior of the fiter housing.
Removing the fuse for the fuel pump will allow you to crank the starter over to build oil pressure. The oil pump does NOT have enough oil in the engine case because you have just drained it. The oil in the main oil tank has a check valve that does not allow oil to move to the oil pump. With the starter turning the engine over, oil is moving thru the engine galley (like the one you just filled up with 2 quarts). The cycle is completed when oil is available for the oil pump.
One thing that one quickly notices is, the amount of time it takes the engine to build prime. It's at least 25 to 35 seconds.
#7
Thanks for taking the time to reply Kevin and for the valuable info in the first place. If filled with the filter in place the oil goes down the hole in the centre into the gallery you speak about. In UK terms is two quarts two litres?
Also can I take it when you say fuse C4 that is the fourth fuse in row C when working from left to right looking at box?
R.
Also can I take it when you say fuse C4 that is the fourth fuse in row C when working from left to right looking at box?
R.
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#8
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1 quart is .946 ml
Since you have a ROW, Right hand-drive turbo scan your fuse pamphlet. I'll help you decide which fuse to pull.
Since you have a ROW, Right hand-drive turbo scan your fuse pamphlet. I'll help you decide which fuse to pull.