My Cargraphic powerkit conversion
#47
Sry just saw this.
For 997.2/gt2 rs intercoolers - if you order both from porsche/porsche motorsport you would need someone to do the install. There are some DIYs on this forum and 6speed. My tuner had to modify the plastic housing to fit them - coolers a slightly larger so there was some cutting done on black plastic housing (no bodywork - just the liner). So in short its a simple swap minus new clamps/o-rings not to re-use old ones. Think your tuner/shop would know if you needs anything else.
Given to do that, one would have to take off the back bumper off as well as airbox, there could be some time $$$ saved if you do other mods at the same time.
You could buy and install a set of silicon intercooler pipes (turbo cold side outlets to intercooler intake and intercooler outtake to Y pipe). Main benefit here is that stock rubber hoses flex and you could experience some inconsistancies in boost. Also you could insist of using upgraded clamps/O-rings to hold them as preventive measure against pipes popping off.
Regarding Y-pipe. This is basically work on intake of the engine. There are some kits that provide larger diameter Y-pipe, plenum and throttle body. I consider this one upgrade. I am not familiar with GT2 products here given intake manifold design here is different. I would suggest you seek out Toby's comments on what to do here (tb and some numbers nickname). For my 997.1 turbo I basically just ordered CF airbox (just the copy of plastic mold) to save weight, didnt touch Y-pipe but went with plenum and throttle body kit (racing plenum cargraphic kit). I dont expect much from this upgrade in terms of performance, main element being larger diameter throttle body that should go well with current my current ECU tine and modded turbos. Plenum chamber mods are debatable on turbos. I will post my feedback here. In short - if you looking to do more than intercooler piping pls research intake manifold setup. If you go with upgraded turbos it would make sense - particularly if you race.
Other intake piping you could do is to the inlet of turbos. Here I have cargraphic carbon fiber larger diameter pipes that came together with upgraded turbos. To my knowledge rs-tuning/cargraphic were the first to do that mode which is now widely available elsewhere. It has to do with machined housing on the intake side.It doesnt make any sense to touch that if you dont modd turbos - its pain to replace and involves lowered engine/engine out work (similar to plugs change).
So intercoolers, cooler hoses, y-pipe and airbox mods - can all be done separatly and are basically independent apart that installing them results in same kinda labor costs.
In terms of wheels I will go for 18" - downsizing from stock turbo 19" oems. I am looking at wheel/tire combos - very vast subject. Will run wider front than stock and need to be carefull with choises both for track and street. Currently have pilot cups. BTW BBS filed again and currently i am looking at 18" cagraphic product.
Thank you for the lead - I will investigate Rays E rims !!!!!
I am still studying dampers/springs, wheels and tires setup. I decided to get involved in custom setup on track etc and need some further work before getting there.
As an intermediate stage I have currently ordered parts for the airbox/plenum as well as sways front/rear + adjustable links, and gt3 cup lower control arms + adj. caster bushing to replace the oem stock on the front (to finally get to adjust the camber). Once parts arrive the car will be in workshop (think within a week) and I will post updates.
For 997.2/gt2 rs intercoolers - if you order both from porsche/porsche motorsport you would need someone to do the install. There are some DIYs on this forum and 6speed. My tuner had to modify the plastic housing to fit them - coolers a slightly larger so there was some cutting done on black plastic housing (no bodywork - just the liner). So in short its a simple swap minus new clamps/o-rings not to re-use old ones. Think your tuner/shop would know if you needs anything else.
Given to do that, one would have to take off the back bumper off as well as airbox, there could be some time $$$ saved if you do other mods at the same time.
You could buy and install a set of silicon intercooler pipes (turbo cold side outlets to intercooler intake and intercooler outtake to Y pipe). Main benefit here is that stock rubber hoses flex and you could experience some inconsistancies in boost. Also you could insist of using upgraded clamps/O-rings to hold them as preventive measure against pipes popping off.
Regarding Y-pipe. This is basically work on intake of the engine. There are some kits that provide larger diameter Y-pipe, plenum and throttle body. I consider this one upgrade. I am not familiar with GT2 products here given intake manifold design here is different. I would suggest you seek out Toby's comments on what to do here (tb and some numbers nickname). For my 997.1 turbo I basically just ordered CF airbox (just the copy of plastic mold) to save weight, didnt touch Y-pipe but went with plenum and throttle body kit (racing plenum cargraphic kit). I dont expect much from this upgrade in terms of performance, main element being larger diameter throttle body that should go well with current my current ECU tine and modded turbos. Plenum chamber mods are debatable on turbos. I will post my feedback here. In short - if you looking to do more than intercooler piping pls research intake manifold setup. If you go with upgraded turbos it would make sense - particularly if you race.
Other intake piping you could do is to the inlet of turbos. Here I have cargraphic carbon fiber larger diameter pipes that came together with upgraded turbos. To my knowledge rs-tuning/cargraphic were the first to do that mode which is now widely available elsewhere. It has to do with machined housing on the intake side.It doesnt make any sense to touch that if you dont modd turbos - its pain to replace and involves lowered engine/engine out work (similar to plugs change).
So intercoolers, cooler hoses, y-pipe and airbox mods - can all be done separatly and are basically independent apart that installing them results in same kinda labor costs.
In terms of wheels I will go for 18" - downsizing from stock turbo 19" oems. I am looking at wheel/tire combos - very vast subject. Will run wider front than stock and need to be carefull with choises both for track and street. Currently have pilot cups. BTW BBS filed again and currently i am looking at 18" cagraphic product.
Thank you for the lead - I will investigate Rays E rims !!!!!
I am still studying dampers/springs, wheels and tires setup. I decided to get involved in custom setup on track etc and need some further work before getting there.
As an intermediate stage I have currently ordered parts for the airbox/plenum as well as sways front/rear + adjustable links, and gt3 cup lower control arms + adj. caster bushing to replace the oem stock on the front (to finally get to adjust the camber). Once parts arrive the car will be in workshop (think within a week) and I will post updates.
#48
THANKS AVADER!
Great thanks indeed! As for BBS it failed again but production is still going on. Be careful about the front ET, because with 9 in. wheel 18 you can only use 46, or it will touch the damper spring. less offset your wheel is out of the car too much. I just received all front end parts of the RS and will fit them soon. (cost 1.200 €) including lower spoiler. But your front valanche is different... you may try Manthey gurneys ... Rays are the best wheels ever! My forged aluminum 19 were almost same weight as the BBS manthey magnesium!
For slick 18 is the only choice, in the Swiss Cup Michelin wiuthdraw the 19 slicks after a while due to tire failures.
With a set of Moton Suspensions you can keep your bars. The new street sport type from Moton are not so expensive and truely good!
For slick 18 is the only choice, in the Swiss Cup Michelin wiuthdraw the 19 slicks after a while due to tire failures.
With a set of Moton Suspensions you can keep your bars. The new street sport type from Moton are not so expensive and truely good!
#49
Thanks dude ! Wheels/tires combo is real tricky for AWD turbo - you have to match the diameter combo front/rear pretty much as in oem - still working out exact details. Actually manthley have some forged magnesium product made by BBS - also looking at those. Wider track + contact patch in front is really a must for turbo - otherwise you end up too stiff overall to cure push.
Not worried about offset - going for cargraphic CF fenders (1" wider on each side + weight reduction). In terms of bodywork - for later this year - will pursue weight reduction. Manthley do doors in 2 configurations - also less expensive than cargraphic. Hood is relatively same px from a number of suppliers - including one with top duct. Everyone seems to have CF roof skin and panel for the sunroof - but ideally having CF skin and CF sunroof panel + manual mechanism to open it - that combo no1 has to my knowledge yet. In terms of decklid+rear spoiler I've settled for CF one from cargraphic + the CF upper engine lid piece from RS. Not going to change bumpers - they are all pu anyways and either oem or cargraphic pu front spoiler lip cures the front axle lift enough for dual use car.
I mean 600hp/800 nm and 100/120kg lighter car with better weight distribution and adj suspension turbo is all one can wish it to be from the factory.
Not worried about offset - going for cargraphic CF fenders (1" wider on each side + weight reduction). In terms of bodywork - for later this year - will pursue weight reduction. Manthley do doors in 2 configurations - also less expensive than cargraphic. Hood is relatively same px from a number of suppliers - including one with top duct. Everyone seems to have CF roof skin and panel for the sunroof - but ideally having CF skin and CF sunroof panel + manual mechanism to open it - that combo no1 has to my knowledge yet. In terms of decklid+rear spoiler I've settled for CF one from cargraphic + the CF upper engine lid piece from RS. Not going to change bumpers - they are all pu anyways and either oem or cargraphic pu front spoiler lip cures the front axle lift enough for dual use car.
I mean 600hp/800 nm and 100/120kg lighter car with better weight distribution and adj suspension turbo is all one can wish it to be from the factory.
#50
Racer
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Join Date: May 2006
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29,000 miles and this kit is still going strong, albeit car has been rather a garage queen over recent years (fatherhood for you).
I think my stock clutch did slip yesterday in 4th between 2-5k rpm. Didn't smell anything burnt though so perhaps it's was wheel spin?! Looking again at clutches I shudder to think now much this would cost to upgrade given 2k for CG parts plus 7-8 hours labor.
Just a note on the exhaust tips slip I noted a few years back. Since then I have had the OEM engine mounts replaced as they were the things that were actually sagging. I now have RSS solid engine mounts which have corrected the engine/exhaust angle and help with throttle response. Engine/exhaust noise in the cabin has gone way up and more vibrations come along with that. Can't decide if this is a good or bad thing yet.
I think my stock clutch did slip yesterday in 4th between 2-5k rpm. Didn't smell anything burnt though so perhaps it's was wheel spin?! Looking again at clutches I shudder to think now much this would cost to upgrade given 2k for CG parts plus 7-8 hours labor.
Just a note on the exhaust tips slip I noted a few years back. Since then I have had the OEM engine mounts replaced as they were the things that were actually sagging. I now have RSS solid engine mounts which have corrected the engine/exhaust angle and help with throttle response. Engine/exhaust noise in the cabin has gone way up and more vibrations come along with that. Can't decide if this is a good or bad thing yet.
#51
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[UPDATE] Eventually needed a new clutch, so I upgraded to the Cargraphic sports clutch which has a higher torque pressure plate and a single mass flywheel.
Kind of wish I didn't go with the single mass flywheel as it doesn't half rattle under 2k revs!! ... but the car certainly is a little faster because of it...
Kind of wish I didn't go with the single mass flywheel as it doesn't half rattle under 2k revs!! ... but the car certainly is a little faster because of it...