When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hi all,
Looking for some feedback. My coolant lines have not been pinned and I know it's something that should be done. I have read a thread recently from a few years ago (can't remember when I read it, I don't think it was on rennlist) you can DIY it without dropping the engine, you just need to remove some accessories and then you access to all the hard lines. This seems super appealing as it saves $$, ensures no catastrophic failures and it's something I can do in my own garage. I don't have a lift, so dropping the engine gets more complicated.
Has anybody done it this way? My only concern about attempting to do it this way is not re-glueing all the connection points, but I also read somewhere that pinning the lines also stop leaks from happening in the first place, so re-glueing isn't necessary if there is no initial failure.
Anybody pinned the lines without dropping the engine & did not re-glue everything?
This thread may be the one that you were referencing which has pics and walk through of how to do it with the engine in the car. It is on a 997 GT3, which is different, I think, from the 997 Turbo as I think the 997 Turbo has an extra fitting or two (I cannot remember as I have a 997 GT3). I also thought that there was one fitting on the 997 Turbo that you couldn't access with the engine in the car, but I'd read through and check if anyone said they did it on a 997 Turbo.
You won't be able to replace the plastic oil cooler lines with the Sharkwerks ones with the engine in the car, typically that is advised when pinning lines as those can crack.
Having done this job in my garage AFTER dropping the engine, no way I would ever attempt it w/o dropping the engine. Too many tight spaces and things that can go wrong (which might necessitate dropping it anyway)
I'm generally the DIYer that would rather spend the extra time to remove stuff in the way and make the repair easier than try to do it in a super-confined space and end up cussing a lot
If you are really interested in DIYing, I'd invest in a scissor jack like I have or a Quick Jack like Ed has. And you will now have an excuse for lots of reasons to wrench on your car
You can definitely pin all the lines with the engine in the car because I did it. I had all the lines welded rather than pinned (I know a great welder).
Yes, it’s a bitch of a job with the engine in and as someone else already pointed out, there’s no way of getting to the plastic elbows in the back.
Later, I had to drop the engine to pin the cams and did the rear elbows. So, I should have dropped the engine to start with.
yes you can drop engine with no lift, as many people on here have done it. Little more tricky, but doable.
its a quick jack 7000 slx + frame extensions + SUV adapters. Im using frame extensions for additional height, don't want to use rubber blocks on top of SUV adapters. Will also use 1000lb cart from harbor freight with new 3" casters ( 5300Lbs load all 4 ). Casters that came with HF cart are 5", so Im dropping height by around 1" ... every inch count
had to modify wheel lock to work with smaller wheels, but thats about it
Last edited by markmark26; 03-07-2021 at 10:25 AM.
I went little crazy with my engine drop. Its normal for me tho
spent long time draining power steering fluid. Nasty stuff
Holy painters tape, batman! I'm not doctor, but do you have OCD ?
And I agree, that pentosin is nasty, I'd be fine if I never had to mess with it again.. The one "whoops" moment in my job was, after I had everything disconnected from the engine was lowering it down.. casually turning the PS pulley and a geyser of pentosin shooting out the disconnected port all over my engine.. That little error cost me an additional hour of cleanup time..
Originally Posted by markmark26
yes you can drop engine with no lift, as many people on here have done it. Little more tricky, but doable.
its a quick jack 7000 slx + frame extensions + SUV adapters. Im using frame extensions for additional height, don't want to use rubber blocks on top of SUV adapters. Will also use 1000lb cart from harbor freight with new 3" casters ( 5300Lbs load all 4 ). Casters that came with HF cart are 5", so Im dropping height by around 1" ... every inch count
had to modify wheel lock to work with smaller wheels, but thats about it
Nice!, clever mod.. I assume you also did the reverse handle mod as well?
Holy painters tape, batman! I'm not doctor, but do you have OCD ?
And I agree, that pentosin is nasty, I'd be fine if I never had to mess with it again.. The one "whoops" moment in my job was, after I had everything disconnected from the engine was lowering it down.. casually turning the PS pulley and a geyser of pentosin shooting out the disconnected port all over my engine.. That little error cost me an additional hour of cleanup time..
Nice!, clever mod.. I assume you also did the reverse handle mod as well?
Allows you to reverse the handle so it moves away from the table surface so you can maneuver the table under the engine while controlling the height easier..
You can definitely pin all the lines with the engine in the car because I did it. I had all the lines welded rather than pinned (I know a great welder).
Yes, it’s a bitch of a job with the engine in and as someone else already pointed out, there’s no way of getting to the plastic elbows in the back.
Later, I had to drop the engine to pin the cams and did the rear elbows. So, I should have dropped the engine to start with.
Good luck.
Awesome, good to know it's doable. I'm not as worried about the plastic elbows, I'm mainly concerned about catastrophic failure before I take the car on a long cruise coming up. At some point, if my cams every spin, then I would drop the engine and do the elbows at that time.
I'll document the process of pining all the connections with the engine in and post it up for others who want to tackle the job in this way.
I still can't believe porsche designed the water hard pipes this way.
On this engine vs the 996 Turbo and GT3's it's the 3 plastic 90"s that will fail at a higher rate vs the glued in coolant fittings leaking.
Buying a inexpensive bore scope that plugs into your phone will allow you to check your plastic 90's. If you don't see the white dry coolant>>you have more time before you need to change them.
I'd also strongly make the recommendation to remove a aluminum fittings to check the bonding of the adhesive.
Drilling, tapping and threading in a fastener does not prevent future leaks. If the bond fails you will get a leak. The pinning does prevent the catastrophic coolant loss.
I had no problem installing the Shark Werks stainless elbows with engine in car. 2007 turbo. Would possibly enjoy that process again, if it becomes necessary. Or maybe next time I'll extract engine first.
Wouldn't recommend doing it this way because a couple of the fasteners were tough to reach. One tough fastener was the left forward screw that held in the elbow. Intake screws were a little tricky. No big deal and I have big hands! I used an internal pipe wrench to extract what was left of the plastic elbow, pulling down, while pushing down on it from the top.
Hi all,
Looking for some feedback. My coolant lines have not been pinned and I know it's something that should be done. I have read a thread recently from a few years ago (can't remember when I read it, I don't think it was on rennlist) you can DIY it without dropping the engine, you just need to remove some accessories and then you access to all the hard lines. This seems super appealing as it saves $$, ensures no catastrophic failures and it's something I can do in my own garage. I don't have a lift, so dropping the engine gets more complicated.
Has anybody done it this way? My only concern about attempting to do it this way is not re-glueing all the connection points, but I also read somewhere that pinning the lines also stop leaks from happening in the first place, so re-glueing isn't necessary if there is no initial failure.
Anybody pinned the lines without dropping the engine & did not re-glue everything?
pic of the ride
possible to do with engine in, but I've not seen it done that way by anyone other than a pro mechanic well versed in fiddly bits.
I did my 996 GT3 with engine out, it would be VERY challenging with engine in.
As Kevin says, it's important to reglue, not just pin, "If the bond fails you will get a leak. The pinning does prevent the catastrophic coolant loss".
03-06-2021, 02:33 PM
Another pinning question
