Lubricating the Turbo actuator ball joints
2012 TTS
I have read that the ball joints on the turbo actuators can become corroded and lose functionality over time and so I wanted to get under the car and lubricate mine. The ball joints are not easy to access and the can of lubricant spray that is recommended by Porsche has only a short small diameter nozzle. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...99ab52712f.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...86cf0d56f3.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...c8ed73f720.jpg I had a piece of small diameter silicone tubing (fuel tubing for small radio controlled aircraft engines) and a piece of wire that I taped to the tubing and was able to direct the lube directly at the ball joint and deliver a couple of drops without making a huge mess. I would give the joint a shot then move the actuator a few times to pull in the lube and repeat a couple of times. Then I put a piece of a paper towel on the end of some long forceps and cleaned up the excess around the joints. Hope this helps someone :) Bill |
Thanks for sharing your idea! :thumbup:
|
Might have to do this on my .1
What are the symptoms of them seizing up? Any straight forward test that could be performed while driving? |
Originally Posted by Ruskiy
(Post 15957001)
Might have to do this on my .1
What are the symptoms of them seizing up? Any straight forward test that could be performed while driving? Under the car you can push on the ball joint and the linkage should operate smoothly n both directions. The passenger side linkage moves up from its resting position, the driver side moves down. Bill. |
1 Attachment(s)
Of the service bulletin:
There is the possibility that turbochargers may have been installed on which the ball joints on the adjustment mechanism for variable turbine geometry can become corroded. As a result, the adjustment mechanism can become stiff as vehicle mileage increases, thereby resulting in a delayed response from the turbochargers |
I had a corroded one before, it was stuck solid and the turbo on that side wouldn't make boost. Now they get lubed upon every oil change.
|
Any easy to find lubricant that we can use? I've never seen anything locally that looks suitable.
|
After reading this thread I sprayed mine with some WD40 just to get some sort of lube on them. Hoping they'll be okay for now.
|
WD solvent will flash off instantly and leave very little high pressure/temp lube which is required for the ball and socket. This area of the turbo can see 970C max before the ECU shuts down thing (high limiter)
|
Originally Posted by Kevin
(Post 15975834)
WD solvent will flash off instantly and leave very little high pressure/temp lube which is required for the ball and socket. This area of the turbo can see 970C max before the ECU shuts down thing (high limiter)
|
Originally Posted by Kevin
WD solvent will flash off instantly and leave very little high pressure/temp lube which is required for the ball and socket. This area of the turbo can see 970C max before the ECU shuts down thing (high limiter)
|
Originally Posted by nzskater
(Post 15978005)
Which lube would you recommend Kevin?
bill |
Originally Posted by tinkerbill
(Post 15978154)
The factory recommended lubricant is shown in the opening message. WSP5040. I had to buy it through a dealer and it was $65 for the 400ml spray can.
bill |
Anyone tried antiseize for this purpose? Seems like the job is primarily hi-temp anti-corrosion and secondarily some lubrication of the joint. Seems like a good nickel or copper antiseize would work fine in that application - - works on brakes...
|
Great post. Where did you source the WSP 5040 from?
|
All times are GMT -3. The time now is 08:16 AM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands