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I’ve been dousing with WD-40 but should probably try another brand at this point. Do I run the risk of damaging the threads using a hammer on the nut? I’ve tried similar with a hardwood block without the nut but haven’t gone super hard at it yet.
Finally got the engine out. I had to put the suspension back together and wheels on the car to get it out of the garage to free up some space to work. My steering is locked however and the car is in an awkward spot in the driveway. Is there a way to unlock the steering without reconnecting the battery? I'd rather not connect it and face a cacophony of errors if possible.
The only thing I saw was a reference to engine work on a Cayman I think, where the guy said to leave the key in the ignition before you disconnect the battery to allow you to move the steering wheel.
I'll keep looking, but you may be stuck. The other way to move a car is to use wheel dollies, but you would want a fairly flat surface to use them. Not sure if any rental places have them, but harbor freight has a set of two on sale for $49 right now.
Wheel Dollie’s are a great idea. I’ll look into that.
I’m currently stuck again at this oil filter manifold or whatever it’s called. Nix that. Got it out. That’s a wrap for the weekend. About to start pinning this week
Last edited by BaboonFury; 04-21-2024 at 09:39 PM.
I want to make sure I understand the replacement coils correctly. If I buy oem like beru or Bosch the newer model coils will require one coil to be modified. If f I buy the Porsche branded coils, there is no modification necessary?
My recommendation is to buy the Genuine Porsche short coilpacks. Part number 997.602.104.06
You spend to much time modifying and grinding the coilpack only to crack a year later..
More importantly, the heat shield rub regardless where and how you shim it.
I have seen more issues with high knock retard with the aftermarket coil installs.
03-25-2024, 03:54 PM
