Jaskfri

I just sold my 2006 C2S cab and I am looking at a 2009 997.1TT cab with mt.There is a P dealer and at least one independent in the town where the car is(700 miles from me).
I have been reading this forum recently to find specific items to check and have this list:
1-Boroscope
2-DME overrev
3-Are the coolant lines/pipes pinned?
4-Has engine or trans been pulled?
5-Camshaft issues
6-Clutch slave issues

Many of these things were missed in my last PPI at a dealer because I did not know to ask for them.
Is there anything else I should check?
Can park assist be added later?

lflouie

Are the tail pipe outlets at the same height...if not indicates possible motor mount degredation.

Check paint depth/thickness...if possible using paint meter. Should be under 6mm.

Since car is nearly 12 yrs old, check that the driveline fluids been replaced? Fuel filter? Clutch/power steering fluids?

997s are known to have excessive (drivers) seat rocking/movement when depressing clutch. If so, it is an expensive seat frame replacement.

Check for vacuum leaks, not uncommon for older cars to not reach boost targets due to vacuum leaks.

Check front radiators for corrosion due to trapped debris and leaves.

Check that clutch accumulator is fully operational by checking for stiff clutch pedal with ignition off. Also check for Pentosin fluid over flow at front clutch fluid reservoir.

saabin

^ Not sure if a borescope is necessary, and if you request one, be prepared to pay more than if it was a NA car as it is not as easy to access the plugs on the turbo engine. The borescope horror stories on the 997 forum are not applicable here since it's an entirely different engine.

Jaskfri

Boroscope is why I sold my 2006. I wasn’t sure it was relevant here but I thought I would play it safe. I also plan to get a long Fidelity warranty. I saw a mezger costs 75k compared to 25k for an m97.

997turbocab

Check when the spark plugs were last replaced.

lflouie

Also check if coils were done when plugs were installed.

4ocious

The coolant pipe problems were corrected in 2009; they are no longer an issue.

TTG

You are buying a 10 year old used car, not an airplane.

Go take a look at the car and if it looks good and has a good history just buy it and stop reading the forums. There are so many things you can tell about the car's ownership just by its appearance and attention to detail.

Original paint is important and the rest of the stuff can break even with a good bill of health. Fine, go take a look at the DME and what if it has several overrevs? Are you going to shy away from it? -----> Typical folks do so the ones that know what they are doing can jump on good cars.

You are going to spend some money on it regardless of what the PPI states.

PS: P dealers do some of the worst PPIs. They are most likely going to take your money, walk around the car and tell you its just fine.
PS 2: Save your money on the warranty as its going to cost you arm and a leg to buy a Fidelity warranty for a car that old.

4ocious

Agree with the above post 100%! Good owner, good maintenance history = good car (JMO but based upon prior ownership and history with 07-11 TT's and TTS).

lflouie

^^^ I agree that ANY PPI including from a P car dealer is only as good as dealer/tech doing the inspection. If the dealer is doing a CPO inspection, they are required to check/ replace certain items but of course you'd be paying for it and the short limited time warranty. I believe a CPO certification would have cost a dealer around $2k plus parts. A good PPI done anywhere can help but as stated above it really boils down to a mix of service history, care and maintenance, previous use and type of driving, conditions, known existing defects (there will be some), and your own inspection and "trust" in the seller/ PPI inspection.

IMO, unless you are spending collector type money premium for the car it will likely be a tradeoff between a perfect car and one with acceptable or even partially unknown history. A PPI should HELP look for common mechanical issues. Service histories are great, but if cars have had multiple owners there can be "holes" over the vehicle ownership. PPI can also flushout abusive use in the form of over revs, but use it as another piece of info vs an absolute cut and dry decision. An older car may have had minor paint work such as bumper or lip resprays, which while not original, is not uncommon. Even an excellent paint job on a panel or part of a panel can be ok, especially if you plan to use the car vs a pure "flip" or a collection piece. Note: most PPI won't find a well done paint job. If this is something you're concernrd about you can have a separate paint/damage inspection done by a good high quality service company.

My thoughts on extended warranties on older cars is that if it is reasonable it might be wise, especially if you plan to drive the car. If it will be a garage queen with extremely minimal use, I'd roll the dice and pass on it. However, 10 year old cars with low mileage have a higher likelihood of deterioration of seals and other "soft" parts, and the need for "time based maintenance" such as driveline fluids, as well as the normal maintenance. In my experience, buying an older car, even a very durable 997.1tt, that you plan to drive and enjoy has the likelihood of potentially costly repairs where an extended warranty could be a wise decision.....remember it is an "insurance policy".

Fidelity Platinum coverage (which is the only one I'd consider bc it covers so many more costly items that could require repair/replacement on an older car) can be found for $650 to $900 per year on a 997tt depending on mileage at purchase, deductible, and number of years and miles covered by the warranty. Obviously the longer the period and fewer miles included in the warranty, the annual cost per year is less. For a $50 fee you can cancel (prorated) and recover the unused portion......or sell it with the car when you're done. If the piece of mind is worth roughly $2/ day of ownership to cover almost everything electrical and mechanical (excluding wear items) then it is a sound decision. Since minor repairs like; slave cylinder and accumulator replacement = $2k+, motor mounts = $1000, PS reservoir = $600, clutch or brake master cylunder = $1000 ea, or nav failure (don't know this one but suspect it is pricey) can mount up fast, especially if you're not a DIY guy. An expensive cam "pinning" or replacement would likely be more than the entire warranty bc of the "engine out" service.

Like any used car, do your homework, get as much info as possible, inspect and ask questions...bring help if you want for another set of eyes. Buy something you like and that matches with your intended use, level of perfection, and budget parameters...but be prepared to spend money on the care and feeding of a semi-exotic sports car that feels like driving a Rolex watch.....ENJOY!

997turbocab

What are they asking for it?

Jaskfri

2009 MT Cab-33k miles-original sticker was $151k. The car was regularly serviced at a p dealer and had the 60k service done last October. First owner drove about 3 years and put on 25k miles. It has been driven about 1000 miles per year for the last 7 years. It was always serviced at the same P dealer for both owners so they may have been the same person.
If the PPI is positive I will fly there , check it out, make an immediate buy/no buy decision, and either drive it home or buy another one way plane ticket