Brake Pad Replacement
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Brake Pad Replacement
I’ve ordered new rear brake pads for my 2011 Turbo S with PCCB’s. I asked the parts man what I needed besides the pads, he said just the wear sensors and the anti rattle springs. I questioned him about new bolts and he said the rotors didn’t have to come off, not so sure about that.
Thanks, Any info would be greatly appreciated
Jim
Thanks, Any info would be greatly appreciated
Jim
#2
Burning Brakes
I’ve ordered new rear brake pads for my 2011 Turbo S with PCCB’s. I asked the parts man what I needed besides the pads, he said just the wear sensors and the anti rattle springs. I questioned him about new bolts and he said the rotors didn’t have to come off, not so sure about that.
Thanks, Any info would be greatly appreciated
Jim
Thanks, Any info would be greatly appreciated
Jim
#4
Burning Brakes
#5
Rennlist Member
You do need to remove the rear calipers to replace pads, or are the rear calipers different on a PCCB car (aside from offset)?
#6
Burning Brakes
#7
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Finally got around to replacing my rear brake pads on my 2011 Turbo S with center locks and PCCB’s Pretty straight forward, two bolts and the caliper comes off. The hard part was removing and reinstalling the anti rattle spring/plate but it worked out. The pistons push in quite easily with your fingers, reinstall the pads, bolt the calipers on, and torque new bolts to 63 foot pounds. I did cover the rotor with a drop cloth and was careful not to bump them.
All in all quite an easy DIY
Jim
All in all quite an easy DIY
Jim
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#8
As I understand it, the bolts should ideally be replaced, at least that was what my dealer told me when I was ordering the parts, and I confirmed this looking in the manual.
I don't recall the torque being that high so one can well argue that they're not 'stretched' (like some head bolts are), but you do need to locktite them.
I don't recall the torque being that high so one can well argue that they're not 'stretched' (like some head bolts are), but you do need to locktite them.
#9
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I think it’s about 84 Newton’s, converted to 63 ft/lbs. There was no evidence of loctite so never put any on, I believe they are stretch to yield
#10
Three Wheelin'
I didn't see anything in my doc about torque to yield. If they were you would have a two stage type of instruction with either 2 torque values or a torque value then a +90 degree or something like that.
What I didn't know about the rear brakes were purchasing another set of dampeners, so I pried off and reused the old ones. I will have to get a set and redo it it at some point.
Ed
What I didn't know about the rear brakes were purchasing another set of dampeners, so I pried off and reused the old ones. I will have to get a set and redo it it at some point.
Ed
#11
I don't see any problem reusing them. If it doesn't make any noise, I would just leave it. I don't even use them in mine.
#12
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Just got the rear brakes done and it puked coolant all over.
I was afraid it was a radiator, but ended up being a little 3-4 inch long hose connector just behind the front differential.
Pretty easy fix, total cost less the $100 Canadian for the part and antifreeze
jim
I was afraid it was a radiator, but ended up being a little 3-4 inch long hose connector just behind the front differential.
Pretty easy fix, total cost less the $100 Canadian for the part and antifreeze
jim
#13
Instructor
Bill
Last edited by tinkerbill; 01-11-2020 at 10:44 AM. Reason: .
#14
Three Wheelin'
The workshop manual recommends new bolts every time the calipers are removed.... I personally don't think that's necessary. In my experience, however, the bolts and thread in the wheel carrier can be stripped very easily so it's important to blow out any dust/dirt/grime/metal out of the wheel carrier to make sure the bolts go in easy. I always clean the bolts too. Unless you track the car I think it's fine to reuse the bolts.
#15
Instructor
The workshop manual recommends new bolts every time the calipers are removed.... I personally don't think that's necessary. In my experience, however, the bolts and thread in the wheel carrier can be stripped very easily so it's important to blow out any dust/dirt/grime/metal out of the wheel carrier to make sure the bolts go in easy. I always clean the bolts too. Unless you track the car I think it's fine to reuse the bolts.
I agree. I bought my 2012TTS with ~29,300 miles and I have some evidence that the previous owner may have tracked the car. Since I don't actually know if that is the case, I will change out the bolts this time when replacing the pads. After that, probably not.
Bill
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