Brake Pad Replacement
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 1,651
Likes: 489
From: Exton, PA
Without a torque to yield specification on a fastener, normally I would say no need to change, however doing some research I saw this in a thread, not about the bolts, but about the threads the bolts screw into on the uprights (both fronts and rears). These were for GT cars and I think they all were being tracked:
This one from early on in the thread (which surprised the heck out of me):
"Yes, the torque spec is 65 for a steel stretch bolt in an aluminium housing."
And way down:
"Like most other things, it depends. Best prevention - clean threads before re-assembly with brake cleaner, assemble with dry threads and do not overtorque. Wet or lubricated threads (anti-sieze, etc.) will lead to over torquing even with torque wrench - specs are for dry assembly.
If car is occasionally tracked, above should keep you out of trouble, if heavily or exclusively tracked with frequent pad and rotor changes, do yourself a favor and change to studs sooner rather than later. If you find bits of aluminum threads on the caliper bolt during disassembly inspect and remedy."
And this from the next post:
"Always hand tighten and make sure you can turn it multiple times before you use socket"
Here's the whole thread:
Upright thread failure
Definitely worth a read. The issue seems to be the number of times a bolt is removed/installed. So no anti-seize, but clean them up well and never over-torque. And if they truly are stretch, you should be replacing them each time.
Ed
This one from early on in the thread (which surprised the heck out of me):
"Yes, the torque spec is 65 for a steel stretch bolt in an aluminium housing."
And way down:
"Like most other things, it depends. Best prevention - clean threads before re-assembly with brake cleaner, assemble with dry threads and do not overtorque. Wet or lubricated threads (anti-sieze, etc.) will lead to over torquing even with torque wrench - specs are for dry assembly.
If car is occasionally tracked, above should keep you out of trouble, if heavily or exclusively tracked with frequent pad and rotor changes, do yourself a favor and change to studs sooner rather than later. If you find bits of aluminum threads on the caliper bolt during disassembly inspect and remedy."
And this from the next post:
"Always hand tighten and make sure you can turn it multiple times before you use socket"
Here's the whole thread:
Upright thread failure
Definitely worth a read. The issue seems to be the number of times a bolt is removed/installed. So no anti-seize, but clean them up well and never over-torque. And if they truly are stretch, you should be replacing them each time.
Ed
Rennlist Member
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 2,877
Likes: 176
From: Japan 🇯🇵
The workshop manual recommends new bolts every time the calipers are removed.... I personally don't think that's necessary. In my experience, however, the bolts and thread in the wheel carrier can be stripped very easily so it's important to blow out any dust/dirt/grime/metal out of the wheel carrier to make sure the bolts go in easy. I always clean the bolts too. Unless you track the car I think it's fine to reuse the bolts.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 1,245
Likes: 354
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 1,321
Likes: 436
From: HTX
But I did replace the bolts on the last go around
Although I do agree that going to studs is a fantastic idea. I'll add it to my list.
