Question on Frozen Rotors?
#16
Rennlist Member
Yeah ironically I switched PSM off to try save my rear pads, then got a bit carried away, stayed out too long and over cooked my tyres - spun into the kitty litter and it de-beaded a rear tyre, which meant I sat for a while and I think that's what did it.
My car is lowered and the ducts have taken a beating - I need to replace the fronts anyway so considering GT3 or GT2. If there's not much in it I'll go for the cheaper option.
My car is lowered and the ducts have taken a beating - I need to replace the fronts anyway so considering GT3 or GT2. If there's not much in it I'll go for the cheaper option.
#17
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I keep my PSM on at the track. Given my cars horsepower, I need all the help I can get. But even at my speeds, my rears don't really show signs of issues. My fronts however take a beating. Blue hot spots everywhere. I'm going to check my pads this weekend. When I swapped my race pads on I didnt really lubricate them as I was in a hurry. I wonder if the fronts are sticking a little bit. When you guys swap your racepads on do you lubricate the edges and the backs where it touches the damper circles and guide pin?
#18
I keep my PSM on at the track. Given my cars horsepower, I need all the help I can get. But even at my speeds, my rears don't really show signs of issues. My fronts however take a beating. Blue hot spots everywhere. I'm going to check my pads this weekend. When I swapped my race pads on I didnt really lubricate them as I was in a hurry. I wonder if the fronts are sticking a little bit. When you guys swap your racepads on do you lubricate the edges and the backs where it touches the damper circles and guide pin?
As for lub on backers and slider, it's not a bad thing to have a little but not typically something only needed where it's going to cause sticking issues.
#20
Wish I could find the pics I took. Seen some way worse than that. Literally a wave pattern on the whole surface with hot rings all around. Pads had .02 highs and lows in them in a wave pattern.
Switch to slotted man. It will take care of most of the issues.
#21
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Flewis763
Yep much of that is due to drilled rotors and possibly glazed pads as well.
Wish I could find the pics I took. Seen some way worse than that. Literally a wave pattern on the whole surface with hot rings all around. Pads had .02 highs and lows in them in a wave pattern.
Switch to slotted man. It will take care of most of the issues.
Wish I could find the pics I took. Seen some way worse than that. Literally a wave pattern on the whole surface with hot rings all around. Pads had .02 highs and lows in them in a wave pattern.
Switch to slotted man. It will take care of most of the issues.
#22
I don't have any experience with Frozen Rotors but many people use Girodisc.
#23
Girodisc are great but also expensive. 2400 bucks vs about 575 for slotted sebros. Depends your budget. The girodisc are lighter and have a performance improvements from less rotating mass and unsprung weight but it's a cost benefit for the consumer. Many guys I know that track hard and often just run 1 piece slotted rotors because of consumable costs. Can replace your rotors 4 times for the cost of 1 set of girodics.
#24
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Hey Flewis, what pads do you recommend for track days. I'm using the PFC 06 pads right now but they are pretty expensive. Just wondering there's another option that's really good for track day and light normal driving usage that doesn't break the bank.
#25
All good pads cost alot. Honeslty something you can track ok and street. Carbotech xp8 is a good choice but not that cheap either.
#26
Rennlist Member
Cheaper try Ferodo DS2500 - running them now and they're a good mid range pad that won't howl on the road. Track focused go RSL1 - best track pad I've used and last ridiculously long.
#27
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by nzskater
Cheaper try Ferodo DS2500 - running them now and they're a good mid range pad that won't howl on the road. Track focused go RSL1 - best track pad I've used and last ridiculously long.
Anybody run the Ferodo DS1.1 or 3000 pads?
Also on PFC pads, which compounds are you all running that won't shred your rotors. I'm running 06 compound currently but don't think they are showing these anymore. It's either 08 compound or something else. I'm willing to try the Ferodos or Pagids but need them to perform on the track with some light daily driving.
#28
Thanks. I've heard with the weight of my turbo and high HP builds on the track, you'll push past the capabilities of the Ferodo 2500. They seem cost effective but track performance maybe an issue. Especially at Mid Oh which is a technical track with lots of turns.
Anybody run the Ferodo DS1.1 or 3000 pads?
Also on PFC pads, which compounds are you all running that won't shred your rotors. I'm running 06 compound currently but don't think they are showing these anymore. It's either 08 compound or something else. I'm willing to try the Ferodos or Pagids but need them to perform on the track with some light daily driving.
Anybody run the Ferodo DS1.1 or 3000 pads?
Also on PFC pads, which compounds are you all running that won't shred your rotors. I'm running 06 compound currently but don't think they are showing these anymore. It's either 08 compound or something else. I'm willing to try the Ferodos or Pagids but need them to perform on the track with some light daily driving.
#29
I use the 08/11 combo on track as well on my 996tt and have been pretty happy with them. Much better wear than than the Pagid yellows used previously and better braking too. That the PFC don’t require the normal bedding process is a big benefit, and I’ve had no problems going back and forth between oem pads and track pads. There might be such a thing as a good street/track pad for a lighter or lower power car, but not really for ours.