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Mike, they are good reliable cars. All cars have design flaws, and Porsche is no different. Even those flaws are pretty rare. I find it easy to work on (wish I had smaller hands...lol) and not that expensive to own if you do your own maintenance. Properly maintained, they will give you years of enjoyment and trouble free ownership. And over revs are not a deal killer, can even be used to get the price down. I guess over revs is subjective to the buyer, or the buyer decided what is an acceptable amount in what ranges. You have been given two different opinions on it, but that does not mean either of us is right or the other is wrong. I think having it scanned for codes and over revs is a no brainer, then buy what you feel comfortable with. If a car with several range 5 or 6's runs good, has no codes, and you feel comfortable with it, go for it. If not, pass and find another. Good luck!
Thanks to you both. I read some of the rev range info and dangers and see what you mean. Funny it talked about
PDK has no limit as far as warranty if screened and no
engine issues.
My 996 C4S had at least $1000 in repair per year, some years $2000 at the Indy. 6 and 7 turbos, nothing. Money I spend is prophylactic PM and upgrades.
My 996 C4S had at least $1000 in repair per year, some years $2000 at the Indy. 6 and 7 turbos, nothing. Money I spend is prophylactic PM and upgrades.
Wow! That says quite a lot. Strange about the difference
in maintanence in TT vs other models.
Thanks.
All you are learning to be is a DME overrev junky like many on this board.
I am with Skwerl, if you find the right car that had some over revs in 4s and 5s, long time ago, it is no big deal AT ALL.
It is becoming harder and harder to find nice clean, right optioned examples. If you find one and it has some old overrevs in 4s and 5s, go ahead and do a PPI and jump on the car.
There is a low mile example in Texas in the market place section with no overrevs if it is within your budget.
All you are learning to be is a DME overrev junky like many on this board.
I am with Skwerl, if you find the right car that had some over revs in 4s and 5s, long time ago, it is no big deal AT ALL.
It is becoming harder and harder to find nice clean, right optioned examples. If you find one and it has some old overrevs in 4s and 5s, go ahead and do a PPI and jump on the car.
There is a low mile example in Texas in the market place section with no overrevs if it is within your budget.
Thanks, it would seem by now if this engine had chronic catastrophic failures due to overevs, we would have
seen it on the scale of the IMS issue by now. Again I am a neophyte to TT's but it seems logical.
My 996 C4S had at least $1000 in repair per year, some years $2000 at the Indy. 6 and 7 turbos, nothing. Money I spend is prophylactic PM and upgrades.
Had a 2010 997C I bought with 10000 miles. Had it four years and put 19000 miles on it. I spent 200.00 on it the entire time. 3 oil changes and a air filter. Might be the most cost effective and reliable car I ever owned. I actually miss it.
Mike, they all had issues, really like any car. 996's and 997's had IMS bearings, as did the original 718 Boxsters.
As for over revs, if you are no concerned, then don't be. If you are concerned, get it scanned and see. Half of the guys on here think it is important, half don't. I am in the middle, I do not mind some over revs, but do not like excessive 4's and no 5-6's. You have heard various opinions and that is just what they are, opinions, mine included. Do what makes you comfortable. While used, these ares are not cheap.
I think everyone can agree over revving any engine is not good for it. How much it will impact the longevity is obviously subjective.
Some cool info on all Porsche over revs. Check out the GT3. Wow.
Regarding the GT3, my 2012 BMW S1000RR didn't get into it's scary power until it went past 9,000 RPM...between there and 14,500 things got interesting.
My metzger is forged and built to 8k rpm. If I ever go to sell and someone asks me for a DME report, I will laugh and say this car is certainly not the car for them. I know this post is not relevant to where the discussion is going. Bottom line, do your homework, evaluate the care of the vehicles and if you find the car you want at the right price, you better jump on it.
I've had every issue occur to me on my car and it was supposedly a babied 25k mile beauty. Just be sure to save some dollars aside for unexpected issues. When they occur, dropping the engine is never cheap to fix and the while your in their scope creep occurs.
Had a 2010 997C I bought with 10000 miles. Had it four years and put 19000 miles on it. I spent 200.00 on it the entire time. 3 oil changes and a air filter. Might be the most cost effective and reliable car I ever owned. I actually miss it.
Mike, they all had issues, really like any car. 996's and 997's had IMS bearings, as did the original 718 Boxsters.
As for over revs, if you are no concerned, then don't be. If you are concerned, get it scanned and see. Half of the guys on here think it is important, half don't. I am in the middle, I do not mind some over revs, but do not like excessive 4's and no 5-6's. You have heard various opinions and that is just what they are, opinions, mine included. Do what makes you comfortable. While used, these ares are not cheap.
I think everyone can agree over revving any engine is not good for it. How much it will impact the longevity is obviously subjective.
With this post and those beyond, I know I have found a home. Thank You All for the teaching.
My fears were a tow truck once a year which is
little compared to the love of the car. Shopping harder
now and would not feel so comfortable without the input
here.
My metzger is forged and built to 8k rpm. If I ever go to sell and someone asks me for a DME report, I will laugh and say this car is certainly not the car for them. I know this post is not relevant to where the discussion is going. Bottom line, do your homework, evaluate the care of the vehicles and if you find the car you want at the right price, you better jump on it.
I've had every issue occur to me on my car and it was supposedly a babied 25k mile beauty. Just be sure to save some dollars aside for unexpected issues. When they occur, dropping the engine is never cheap to fix and the while your in their scope creep occurs.
My 2007 was OEM when I bought her a couple months ago, manual with 21K miles, full leather, sports chrono, sports shifter, adaptive sports seats and Guards Red with black interior, so other than pccm she checked all the boxes for me...I requested a DME report but as they said it would take them a few days to get one and with the ebay auction nearing completion I went ahead and bid to win and I did, I had checked the Carfax and it was clean and the service looked good to me, only 2 owners, but I got tired of the ones I liked being sold the day before, so I bought the car site unseen. Turned out I bought a pretty nice one...paint is gorgeous, interior is like new and everything worked and she runs like a scalded dog.
I am now having some extensive engine upgrades done and a very thorough inspection has been undertaken, where we have found some issues 1.) cracked front fender liners, most likely from someone running over a curb. Both are being replaced, 2.) driver side front radiator has a very small leak most likely from something getting through the grill. It is being replaced. 3.) Rear main has a VERY minor leak and is being replaced, 4.) The hydraulic clutch is not keeping pressure (the only noticeable symptom was immediately upon shutting off the engine the clutch would be hard to depress, whereas apparently a correctly sealed unit would allow the hydraulics to assist the clutch depression for up to 30 minutes) and was indicative of a leak in the master or slave...I am getting a new Sach's Race Clutch so a new slave will go in there so the only other fix is a new master cylinder. 5.) A few cracked electrical ignition coils. As part of my turbo upgrade new coils are recommended, so all are being replaced. The only issue that concerns me is the rear main seal...it could be chalked up to being a 10 year old car with low mileage (i.e. long periods of no driving) or it could be indicative of an internal rotational assembly out of spec condition. The Porsche mechanic who is doing the work said it is a non issue but as the engine is being pulled we should replace it. The car was driving perfect and had perfect temperature and had no noticeable garage floor leaks. I have requested a DME report, just for my own edification, but that horse is already out of the barn. Good luck, they are tremendous cars and I always feel like Master of the Universe when I get behind the wheel...even when rolling 35 MPH down A1A p.s. None of my water coolant and heat exchanger pipes were leaking but the plastic heat exchanger pipes are being replaced with Sharkwerks metal ones and the metal coolant pipes are being re epoxied and pinned, so that issue will be taken care of...the good news is with all the engine work I am having done the typical $8K or $10K coolant/heat exchanger pipe fix is being done almost for free....or vice versa depending on how you do the math.
My 2007 was OEM when I bought her a couple months ago, manual with 21K miles, full leather, sports chrono, sports shifter, adaptive sports seats and Guards Red with black interior, so other than pccm she checked all the boxes for me...I requested a DME report but as they said it would take them a few days to get one and with the ebay auction nearing completion I went ahead and bid to win and I did, I had checked the Carfax and it was clean and the service looked good to me, only 2 owners, but I got tired of the ones I liked being sold the day before, so I bought the car site unseen. Turned out I bought a pretty nice one...paint is gorgeous, interior is like new and everything worked and she runs like a scalded dog.
I am now having some extensive engine upgrades done and a very thorough inspection has been undertaken, where we have found some issues 1.) cracked front fender liners, most likely from someone running over a curb. Both are being replaced, 2.) driver side front radiator has a very small leak most likely from something getting through the grill. It is being replaced. 3.) Rear main has a VERY minor leak and is being replaced, 4.) The hydraulic clutch is not keeping pressure (the only noticeable symptom was immediately upon shutting off the engine the clutch would be hard to depress, whereas apparently a correctly sealed unit would allow the hydraulics to assist the clutch depression for up to 30 minutes) and was indicative of a leak in the master or slave...I am getting a new Sach's Race Clutch so a new slave will go in there so the only other fix is a new master cylinder. 5.) A few cracked electrical ignition coils. As part of my turbo upgrade new coils are recommended, so all are being replaced. The only issue that concerns me is the rear main seal...it could be chalked up to being a 10 year old car with low mileage (i.e. long periods of no driving) or it could be indicative of an internal rotational assembly out of spec condition. The Porsche mechanic who is doing the work said it is a non issue but as the engine is being pulled we should replace it. The car was driving perfect and had perfect temperature and had no noticeable garage floor leaks. I have requested a DME report, just for my own edification, but that horse is already out of the barn. Good luck, they are tremendous cars and I always feel like Master of the Universe when I get behind the wheel...even when rolling 35 MPH down A1A p.s. None of my water coolant and heat exchanger pipes were leaking but the plastic heat exchanger pipes are being replaced with Sharkwerks metal ones and the metal coolant pipes are being re epoxied and pinned, so that issue will be taken care of...the good news is with all the engine work I am having done the typical $8K or $10K coolant/heat exchanger pipe fix is being done almost for free....or vice versa depending on how you do the math.
What a great write up! Thx. Beautiful Turbo BTW. Nice mods and a lot being done and sounds like
a good price too. So sounds like with all the mods you are done for a while. Hope I find one like that.
Thanks for the teaching!
10-17-2018, 07:22 PM
p.s. None of my water coolant and heat exchanger pipes were leaking but the plastic heat exchanger pipes are being replaced with Sharkwerks metal ones and the metal coolant pipes are being re epoxied and pinned, so that issue will be taken care of...the good news is with all the engine work I am having done the typical $8K or $10K coolant/heat exchanger pipe fix is being done almost for free....or vice versa depending on how you do the math.
