Brake Pad Replacement
#1
Drifting
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Join Date: Jul 2013
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Brake Pad Replacement
Hey Fellas,
Feel like it's been a while since I posted. Anyways. Thinking of changing up my front pads to either ferodo ds2500 or Pagid... pads are for street and spirited driving use. Curious if anyone has any specific recommendations. Obviously want something with great grip, limited fade, limited brake dust, and doesn't destroy the rotors. Probably due for new rotors after 44k miles.
Thanks in advance for recommendations!
Also been trying to put together a list of what I need for the change
- Pad spreaders
- Pads
- Discs
- Sensors
- tire mounting pin
- spring depress clip? Came across this link with an option that seems to work http://pkvista.com/TraqJunk/Index.html
However would be my first time replacing front brakes on this as i've only done the rears before. They weren't too bad. Not sure if i should get entirely new hardware all throughout.
Feel like it's been a while since I posted. Anyways. Thinking of changing up my front pads to either ferodo ds2500 or Pagid... pads are for street and spirited driving use. Curious if anyone has any specific recommendations. Obviously want something with great grip, limited fade, limited brake dust, and doesn't destroy the rotors. Probably due for new rotors after 44k miles.
Thanks in advance for recommendations!
Also been trying to put together a list of what I need for the change
- Pad spreaders
- Pads
- Discs
- Sensors
- tire mounting pin
- spring depress clip? Came across this link with an option that seems to work http://pkvista.com/TraqJunk/Index.html
However would be my first time replacing front brakes on this as i've only done the rears before. They weren't too bad. Not sure if i should get entirely new hardware all throughout.
#2
Rennlist Member
Dude. Stop right there. You do NOT want Ferodo or Pagid pads for street driving. They scream (not squeal, scream) so loud you'll hate driving your car on the street. And they dust like crazy. They're track pads with zero regard for noise or brake dust. I have pagids on and swap the front pads back to oem between track weekends. It's still worse than 10 buses even with just the rears in. Honestly I'm looking at a dedicated track car now just because the brake noise is so bad around town lol.
There are no good compromise pads. Hawk HPS suck and have so little inital bite in the wet it's scary. Hawk ceramic low dust pads aren't very low dust, and also don't have performance pad characteristics.
Oem pads honestly are the best combination of dust, noise, performance and price. Textar or TRW.
The best thing I did was have my BBS wheels coated with a ceramic coating. A quick blast with a pressure washer and they're clean. Might consider that combined with oem pads.
Cheers
There are no good compromise pads. Hawk HPS suck and have so little inital bite in the wet it's scary. Hawk ceramic low dust pads aren't very low dust, and also don't have performance pad characteristics.
Oem pads honestly are the best combination of dust, noise, performance and price. Textar or TRW.
The best thing I did was have my BBS wheels coated with a ceramic coating. A quick blast with a pressure washer and they're clean. Might consider that combined with oem pads.
Cheers
#3
Rennlist Member
+1
My indie put Pagids on my 993 thinking I needed them for canyon carving. Squealed like a stuck pig.
My indie put Pagids on my 993 thinking I needed them for canyon carving. Squealed like a stuck pig.
#5
I am running Pagid Yellows and I like them. I do mostly street driving with some track weekends. I don't want the extra hassle of swapping anything but wheels/tires for track use. I agree, the Pagid pads squeal like a stuck pig. I tried a very aggressive break in procedure outlined by someone on this forum or 6speedonline (I forget). It actually worked; they still squeak a little when coming to a complete stop but it is minimal. I will add, I recently had a brake job done replacing oem rotors with Girodisc rotors and went with oem pads. The oem pads just didn't have much bite so I switched to Pagid Yellows. Without the break in I'm not sure I could have lived with the noise for very long. If anyone is interested I will dig up the break in procedure and pass it on. I was skeptical ... until I tried it and it worked.
#7
Rennlist Member
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#10
Rennlist Member
As far as the change procedure, some sort of tool to depress the spring clip while removing the pin would be nice. It's an enormous pain in the *** otherwise. I made a little video on how I managed to do it:
Another tip I read afterward is using a piece of 2x4 or similar braced against your leg. You can use your leg to press on the spring via the wood, which both lets you apply more force (it takes a lot) and keeps your hands free for removing the pin. That tool you linked looks great, but appears not to be available.
Also as I mention in the video, if your rotors have been on for a while and driven in the wet and such, you'll likely need an impact screwdriver (the kind you hit with a hammer to break the screw loose) to get some of the screws out. Might as well replace them afterward (and use a bit of antiseize on them) since they're cheap.
Not sure what you mean by "tire mounting pin". Sensors should be reusable as long as they're in good shape, but obviously you can replace them if you want.
Another tip I read afterward is using a piece of 2x4 or similar braced against your leg. You can use your leg to press on the spring via the wood, which both lets you apply more force (it takes a lot) and keeps your hands free for removing the pin. That tool you linked looks great, but appears not to be available.
Also as I mention in the video, if your rotors have been on for a while and driven in the wet and such, you'll likely need an impact screwdriver (the kind you hit with a hammer to break the screw loose) to get some of the screws out. Might as well replace them afterward (and use a bit of antiseize on them) since they're cheap.
Not sure what you mean by "tire mounting pin". Sensors should be reusable as long as they're in good shape, but obviously you can replace them if you want.
#11
Drifting
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would you recommend i also change the rotors along with the pads for a change?
Was looking at these pads
https://www.suncoastparts.com/product/99735194701.html
Not sure if i need these
https://www.suncoastparts.com/produc...735140601.html
Assuming i should replace the senors too...
https://www.suncoastparts.com/produc...761267700.html
anything else i may need here? Maybe replace the rotor pin screws?
https://www.suncoastparts.com/catego...rakeparts.html
Was looking at these pads
https://www.suncoastparts.com/product/99735194701.html
Not sure if i need these
https://www.suncoastparts.com/produc...735140601.html
Assuming i should replace the senors too...
https://www.suncoastparts.com/produc...761267700.html
anything else i may need here? Maybe replace the rotor pin screws?
https://www.suncoastparts.com/catego...rakeparts.html
#12
Race Director
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: KC ex pat marooned in NY
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If the rotors aren't scored or damaged I'd just do the pads. Sensors are easy enough to change too, they get brittle from the constant heat cycles and sometimes break when taken out. The bolts are a wear item as well, I'd leave the pin screws alone unless they're rusted.
#14
Rennlist Member
Regarding the pin screws, mine were extremely seized. I managed to get them out with an impact screwdriver, but definitely needed to replace them. YMMV. You could pop a wheel off before ordering parts to see what shape they're in and order replacements if they don't come out easily. They're cheap.
#15
Three Wheelin'
Each car I have owned has been a bit different for swapping rotors, but in general I usually change them every other brake pad replacement.
Ed
Ed