997tt Advice requested
04-17-2018, 04:34 PM
#31
Intermediate
I had a 996TT that served as my track car for 2 years and a 996 GT2 that was driven....well lets just say pretty hard. I now have a 997TT that is pretty much babied. With that in mind the coolant hose issue to me is a forum-generated over-reaction to a seldom seen occurrence that, while it may happen, affects a very small percentage of cars. The fix is ridiculously expensive and is not guaranteed. I looked into doing this on my 996TT and was advised NOT to by 2 race shops down here. I find the coolant-pipe fanatics fall into the same category as the DME fanatics who think the motor will spontaneously blow up if your car was over-revved. Again, this is my opinion but my experience and that of the shops I use brought me to it.
To the OP'ster, have the coolant lines inspected. If you are going to road course track the car check with the sanctioning body who promotes the event to see if they require this "pinning" on your TT.
04-17-2018, 04:35 PM
#32
Intermediate
Considering the upgraded epoxy alone almost never fails, I'm confident properly pinned lines would literally never fail. (And even if somehow they did (extreme overheating maybe) the pin would ensure it wasn't catastrophic.) Welding seems like overkill to me. Not that it'll hurt if the cost is comparable I guess!
04-17-2018, 04:35 PM
#33
Intermediate
Whether you plan to fix it proactively or wait till it occurs may be a mute point if you plan to take it to a track. Tracks are now requiring you to show proof that the lines have bee replaced, pinned or welded. For example just this past year at Mid Ohio they passed a rule that all 997s have to show proof or they are not allowed on the track. Mine is already done and I have the proof but I can imagine many others do not. Not sure how many other tracks are following what Mid Ohio did but if one does it, I'm sure others will follow suit if not already.
04-18-2018, 11:32 AM
#34
Race Director
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I had a 996TT that served as my track car for 2 years and a 996 GT2 that was driven....well lets just say pretty hard. I now have a 997TT that is pretty much babied. With that in mind the coolant hose issue to me is a forum-generated over-reaction to a seldom seen occurrence that, while it may happen, affects a very small percentage of cars. The fix is ridiculously expensive and is not guaranteed. I looked into doing this on my 996TT and was advised NOT to by 2 race shops down here. I find the coolant-pipe fanatics fall into the same category as the DME fanatics who think the motor will spontaneously blow up if your car was over-revved. Again, this is my opinion but my experience and that of the shops I use brought me to it.
04-18-2018, 11:44 PM
#35
Track Day
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Coolant pipes leakage = full repair and engine out preventative maintenance
My 2007 TT is my daily driver and UCR PCA DE day car. At CTMP (Mosport) I regularly reach 155 mph+ on the back straight so reliability is crucial. I ran with water wetter for 2 track years then noticed a leak in November 2016 at about 95000 miles. When it all came apart the coolant pipes were swollen and there was corrosion on the water pump. I had to have the pump repaired by welding and machining vs a new one and I used the sharkwerks fittings and had them burled as well as pined. Corrosion also affected the radiators so they were rreplaced as well. The car was maintained and inspected regularly for leaks but the corrosion wasn't sern until it was apart.
My recommendation is if you plan to keep the car is do the pipes as a midlife retrofit and hopefully avoid corrosion related repairs.
Mileage wise it also worked out good for clutch and flywheel replacement and I did my slave cylinder, intercooler and D088 hoses plus exhaust at the same time...umv tune this summer when I get back to the track .
regards
Colin
My recommendation is if you plan to keep the car is do the pipes as a midlife retrofit and hopefully avoid corrosion related repairs.
Mileage wise it also worked out good for clutch and flywheel replacement and I did my slave cylinder, intercooler and D088 hoses plus exhaust at the same time...umv tune this summer when I get back to the track .
regards
Colin
04-19-2018, 10:55 AM
#36
Instructor
Thread Starter
Colin - what would have caused the corrosion? I thought any coolant or WW consists of corrosion inhibitors. Is it possible distilled water wasn't used? Sort of off topic - few years ago watching Wheeler Dealers, on one of the cars they rebuilt they used a waterless coolant in the auto - thus no chance for rust etc. Anyone ever look into this? This was when the show was filmed in the UK.
Feedback on this thread has been very informative - thank you all. Unscientifically, it's just about a split as to whether or not to tackle the fittings now. I'm going to err on the side of fun and get the EP and maybe tune for this year. I don't plan on doing any DE days in 2018 (unfortunately) however this might be something I tackle next spring before the driving season here in the lovely N/E US. When I have the car on the lift in a few weeks to do the diffs & gear box I'll inspect the fittings, hoses, etc for seepage. Obviously if I see anything that'll take priority.
Thanks!
Steve
Feedback on this thread has been very informative - thank you all. Unscientifically, it's just about a split as to whether or not to tackle the fittings now. I'm going to err on the side of fun and get the EP and maybe tune for this year. I don't plan on doing any DE days in 2018 (unfortunately) however this might be something I tackle next spring before the driving season here in the lovely N/E US. When I have the car on the lift in a few weeks to do the diffs & gear box I'll inspect the fittings, hoses, etc for seepage. Obviously if I see anything that'll take priority.
Thanks!
Steve
04-19-2018, 12:22 PM
#37
As far as dealers using tap water to mix with coolant/antifreeze, I know for a fact one near me uses city water. Their parts and services department said “as long as it’s not well water, normal tap water works fine, we use it here.” Incidentally I didn’t get it filled there, bought a gallon, mixed it with distilled and filled it myself.
04-19-2018, 12:32 PM
#38
Instructor
Thread Starter
I guess it depends upon when you live (maybe). I would never use tap water here in NJ - way too hard. I plumbed in a whole house filter/softener in my house - no longer hard water but the salt wouldn't be good either. I've only used distilled water, even in my first car 1980 Ford Rustang. Too many minerals/chemicals in tap water.
04-19-2018, 05:13 PM
#39
Rennlist Member
My 2007 TT is my daily driver and UCR PCA DE day car. At CTMP (Mosport) I regularly reach 155 mph+ on the back straight so reliability is crucial. I ran with water wetter for 2 track years then noticed a leak in November 2016 at about 95000 miles. When it all came apart the coolant pipes were swollen and there was corrosion on the water pump. I had to have the pump repaired by welding and machining vs a new one and I used the sharkwerks fittings and had them burled as well as pined. Corrosion also affected the radiators so they were rreplaced as well. The car was maintained and inspected regularly for leaks but the corrosion wasn't sern until it was apart.
My recommendation is if you plan to keep the car is do the pipes as a midlife retrofit and hopefully avoid corrosion related repairs.
Mileage wise it also worked out good for clutch and flywheel replacement and I did my slave cylinder, intercooler and D088 hoses plus exhaust at the same time...umv tune this summer when I get back to the track .
regards
Colin
My recommendation is if you plan to keep the car is do the pipes as a midlife retrofit and hopefully avoid corrosion related repairs.
Mileage wise it also worked out good for clutch and flywheel replacement and I did my slave cylinder, intercooler and D088 hoses plus exhaust at the same time...umv tune this summer when I get back to the track .
regards
Colin