997tt Advice requested
#16
Rennlist Member
Yes I'm a member for a few months now. I never heard of Aspen but they're close to the MVC. PowerTech in Rockaway did my PPI and the guys were really cool - but I've heard mixed reviews on them. I know they're Porsche specific and have been doing it for a long time. I have no experience with them so can't say one way or the other. I was going to take a ride to CT to see family and check out Daniel Jacobs about this. I heard they're a great shop as well.
I'll be doing my oil for the first time tomorrow. I'll tackle the diffs, AWD controller, and transmission when I can get to my buddy's lift.
I'll be doing my oil for the first time tomorrow. I'll tackle the diffs, AWD controller, and transmission when I can get to my buddy's lift.
Dan Jacobs is pretty far away, and I think more of an air cooled shop.
Autohaus down in Gladstone is another shop local.
I’ve had warranty work done at Paul Miller.
The picnic at brookrace in may/June is best NNJR event of the year.
#17
That's absolute bull. A skilled welder (the guy who did my car) can do this job and it will be permanent. Welding is 1000 times superior to putting a bolt through an aluminum fitting.
#18
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I had a 996TT that served as my track car for 2 years and a 996 GT2 that was driven....well lets just say pretty hard. I now have a 997TT that is pretty much babied. With that in mind the coolant hose issue to me is a forum-generated over-reaction to a seldom seen occurrence that, while it may happen, affects a very small percentage of cars. The fix is ridiculously expensive and is not guaranteed. I looked into doing this on my 996TT and was advised NOT to by 2 race shops down here. I find the coolant-pipe fanatics fall into the same category as the DME fanatics who think the motor will spontaneously blow up if your car was over-revved. Again, this is my opinion but my experience and that of the shops I use brought me to it.
#19
Drifting
I had a 996TT that served as my track car for 2 years and a 996 GT2 that was driven....well lets just say pretty hard. I now have a 997TT that is pretty much babied. With that in mind the coolant hose issue to me is a forum-generated over-reaction to a seldom seen occurrence that, while it may happen, affects a very small percentage of cars. The fix is ridiculously expensive and is not guaranteed. I looked into doing this on my 996TT and was advised NOT to by 2 race shops down here. I find the coolant-pipe fanatics fall into the same category as the DME fanatics who think the motor will spontaneously blow up if your car was over-revved. Again, this is my opinion but my experience and that of the shops I use brought me to it.
#20
Drifting
I agree in some cases - for example, the IMS fix on the M96 motors. $4k PM job versus $20k motor rebuild.
In the case of the Mezger coolant line issue, what is more expensive to repair after the fact versus doing the job as PM? I'm genuinely curious. While of course a complete failure is going to lead to some inconvenience, my understanding is it's the same job whether it's done as PM or repair. Also, many times the coolant lines don't release and dump the whole load of coolant - often the problem is spotted with a coolant leak first, and is addressed before complete failure.
In the case of the Mezger coolant line issue, what is more expensive to repair after the fact versus doing the job as PM? I'm genuinely curious. While of course a complete failure is going to lead to some inconvenience, my understanding is it's the same job whether it's done as PM or repair. Also, many times the coolant lines don't release and dump the whole load of coolant - often the problem is spotted with a coolant leak first, and is addressed before complete failure.
This is especially true on the later years (2009 and late 2008 models). A different epoxy was used, so it's much less likely to let go. The plastic elbows will start to slowly leak after a while though. I decided to replace them with metal at about 48k miles while doing clutch and plugs, and found signs of slight leakage. Obviously pinned the lines at the same time, because why not. But yeah, I can't see why it would be more expensive to repair after a significant leak—unless you get really unlucky and dump coolant onto your rear wheels, or in front of someone else. Again though, I think a catastrophic failure in a car that's got the newer epoxy, or probably on any car not on a track, is unlikely.
Well the nice thing about planning is you know how long the car will be down vs. unexpected. Second, you don't have to pay tow fees or deal with the tow driver fking up your car. Third, it's not scheduled therefore your mechanic is backlog and your car waits outside the lot until bandwidth is available. Fourth, any other potential issues that could happen because of coolant hose ; example , trip ruined, potential accident, etc.
As for the 08-09 remarks of different glue. Ha ! Explain that to 2011 gt3rs 4.0 i had in hands, 7k miles....no track time.
#21
Rennlist Member
I had a 996TT that served as my track car for 2 years and a 996 GT2 that was driven....well lets just say pretty hard. I now have a 997TT that is pretty much babied. With that in mind the coolant hose issue to me is a forum-generated over-reaction to a seldom seen occurrence that, while it may happen, affects a very small percentage of cars. The fix is ridiculously expensive and is not guaranteed. I looked into doing this on my 996TT and was advised NOT to by 2 race shops down here. I find the coolant-pipe fanatics fall into the same category as the DME fanatics who think the motor will spontaneously blow up if your car was over-revved. Again, this is my opinion but my experience and that of the shops I use brought me to it.
#22
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I am just saying that the coolant issue has affected an extremely small percentage of cars built and to go out and spend literally thousands on a solution that is not guaranteed is a waste of money. My car blew a hose one time on track (the hose split) and I ran it on the track for 2 years. I knew a few other guys who had 996TT at the track with no issues. I always believe a good PPI from a good shop and "eyes on the area" throughout your ownership is enough. 2 race shops down here both advised against doing this unless I really really wanted to so I would take their opinion. I am not saying this has never happened before, rather I am saying it is a seemingly random issue that affects a handful of cars. I am on my third turbo with this motor and never had a problem so I would rather save the money instead of pulling the motor and opening a can of worms if things don't go back together right.
#23
Whether you plan to fix it proactively or wait till it occurs may be a mute point if you plan to take it to a track. Tracks are now requiring you to show proof that the lines have bee replaced, pinned or welded. For example just this past year at Mid Ohio they passed a rule that all 997s have to show proof or they are not allowed on the track. Mine is already done and I have the proof but I can imagine many others do not. Not sure how many other tracks are following what Mid Ohio did but if one does it, I'm sure others will follow suit if not already.
#24
Rennlist Member
Whether you plan to fix it proactively or wait till it occurs may be a mute point if you plan to take it to a track. Tracks are now requiring you to show proof that the lines have bee replaced, pinned or welded. For example just this past year at Mid Ohio they passed a rule that all 997s have to show proof or they are not allowed on the track. Mine is already done and I have the proof but I can imagine many others do not. Not sure how many other tracks are following what Mid Ohio did but if one does it, I'm sure others will follow suit if not already.
#25
Originally Posted by cstyles
Do they not give you the choice to instead run without coolant ie distilled water + water wetter? PCA UCR chapter rules here are all Mezger powered cars must A. have the coolant pipes pinned or welded or B. coolant flushed from the system and replaced with water & water wetter. I have gone the WW route for now, as did the previous owner of my car who is a PCA instructor.
#27
Extra power should change nothing WRT the coolant leak issue. Extra RPM, or more time at high RPM will. As does age, and potentially heat cycling.
After the fact repairs are a bigger deal if the car slips in its own coolant spill and crashes.
My car is street driven, so I've noted this as something to do if/when the engine comes out. If I was tracking the car, I'd deal with it pro-actively. I'd also probably be running distilled water in a car I tracked more than once. Out of all the automotive fluids, I detest the feel of coolant the most. Of course pure water may lead to cavitation, which can cause all sorts of other "fun" issues.
After the fact repairs are a bigger deal if the car slips in its own coolant spill and crashes.
My car is street driven, so I've noted this as something to do if/when the engine comes out. If I was tracking the car, I'd deal with it pro-actively. I'd also probably be running distilled water in a car I tracked more than once. Out of all the automotive fluids, I detest the feel of coolant the most. Of course pure water may lead to cavitation, which can cause all sorts of other "fun" issues.
#28
Instructor
Thread Starter
After much reading and research as well as feedback on this thread, I'm on the side of waiting if/when that event occurs as it seems to be a rare occurrence. I think that a large number folks on a forum tend to join to find out about problems and sometimes create a frenzy over a seldom found issue. I'm not at all saying it doesn't happen, and as 6Mezger stated - Murphy's Law... When the time comes for a new clutch or some other engine drop service I'll probably tackle this as well. Welding vs. Pinning yet to be determined but I'd think welding is far more permanent, assuming the job is done right.
I'd rather that couple thousand dollars go toward an EP right now!!
Thanks everyone for your input!
I'd rather that couple thousand dollars go toward an EP right now!!
Thanks everyone for your input!
#29
Instructor
Thread Starter
I took my 996 turbo for some maintenance (can’t remember what) to pOwertech years ago, good work, but was surprised at cost. So, I haven’t been back. Aspen is closer to me(Morristown), they’re Porsche centric too. Intend to have them install the Bilsteins, spr8ngs, motormounts.
Dan Jacobs is pretty far away, and I think more of an air cooled shop.
Autohaus down in Gladstone is another shop local.
I’ve had warranty work done at Paul Miller.
The picnic at brookrace in may/June is best NNJR event of the year.
Paul Miller seems like a good shop, but just very expensive...like $400 for an oil change. I got a similar impression from PowerTech - but again only used them for a PPI. I'll check out Aspen. I'm in Denville so for me either shop is close.
Thanks for your help, and hope to meet you at an NNJR event one day.
-Steve
#30
Rennlist Member
Considering the upgraded epoxy alone almost never fails, I'm confident properly pinned lines would literally never fail. (And even if somehow they did (extreme overheating maybe) the pin would ensure it wasn't catastrophic.) Welding seems like overkill to me. Not that it'll hurt if the cost is comparable I guess!