Skyhawk172

Was driving home last night and was playing with the PASM button which I really don't know that much about but I do know that the spoiler comes up when the PASM is activated, that said after a short while I got an alert of spoiler malfunction Turn of the PASM the spoiler did not go back down. I was in stop and go traffic so not doing 75. when I parked the car and turned of the ignition the spoiler stay in the up position. Drove it to work this morning and when I started up I used the spoiler button to lower the spoiler which it did but during my drive the spoiler came up I know I went faster than 75 but alas it stayed up after I slowed down. but did not get any alarm this morning. Any thoughts.

JG 996T

Yes, hydraulics going bad in the mechanism that raises and lowers rear wing. Lots of threads on topic w/ potential remedies.

Mine went on my old 6 turbo and replaced with factory unit under CPO.

Skyhawk172

Thanks Ill try to research it some. Me and the search function are not on a first name basis yet

993MAN

Mines also starting to play up a bit now and then. I read that they can cost a lot to sort out as well.
Hardly third world problems..

DaveCarrera4

TT Surgeon

Kevin

Usually when you have a wing stuck in the deployed UP position, you have 2 possible failures. One is electrical and mainly the micro switches. They are "dumb" limit/contact switches that will work or won't work. You can bypass them to see if the motor will raise and lower the wing by applying 12 volts directly to the electric pump motor.
The second failure is a tough one. Usually it points to a broken nylon support bracket located inside the electric pump assy. It can wedge/bind which causes the dual ram plungers within the pump assy to freeze and NOT allow the lift cylinder to come down. Please understand that each lift cylinder has a spring which allows the wing to return to the lower position. This is evident when you have a slow leak and the wing leaks and stay lowered or caulked at a angle.
It is my opinion that you have a electrical issue if you have dry cylinders. Micro switches.
Note>>I have engineered and manufactured repair cartridges for the hydraulic lift cylinders. This will allow users to replace the $0.15 cent orings whenever you have a future failure. I have redesigned the internal piston/thrust block and provide better/quality orings vs the factory.
I really don't recommend installing large concentration of Lucus or similar product. Why, because the oring will swell causing drag on the pump assy lift block and drive screw. When them break, you have additional cost and repair time needlessly. When you see the hydraulic fluid leaking on the air filter box. Email or call me for the INEXPENSIVE fix.

TT Surgeon

good to know

HardHitter

Sorry to jump onto this thread but I had hopefully a simple question:

My spoiler is going up/down fine for now but when I take a look in the engine bay, I can see some residual fluid on the left ram cap. Is this a sign of it going out or could it be the bolts have loosen a little and it just needs tightening?

saabin

Did you take the cap off? They just pop off, you might be able to have a better look at where the leak is from..

I'd hazard to say if you have residual fluid you might want to start saving :-) or maybe Kevin's solution above will work?

HardHitter

Yep I popped the cap off the wipe it down in there. Wasn't a lot, but enough to see a small drop starting to form vs the right side being completely dry. I saw there are two bolts on the bottom and the line going into the bottom was able to swivel. Don't know if that means it is loose and hopefully it is a simple fix of tightening bolts or if its on its way out.

TT Surgeon

DaveCarrera4

Johnny DB

Good to know Kevin! Always top notch