JSF721

I need to invest in the correct tool so I can manage the center lock wheels.

Just got back from a 1270 mile road trip and the car was awesome!

id like to do more trips but if I have a tire issue most shops can't help. I'd like to have what I need on board and as compact as possible.

Can anyome provide links to required tools ?

also anyome know what this is ? Part number or link.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=GzpTU7lBxBA


Thanks in advance.

pfbz

You might have better luck searching and asking your centerlock question in the 997 GT3 forum, but I believe the video is showing the Porsche factory centerlock torque multiplier? Evidently very expensive and very difficult to source.

i think a lot of DIY owners use a very large split-beam torque wrench instead, like the Precision Instruments PREC4D600F to torque the wheels and an even bigger breaker bar to get them loose...

Domer911

I use this, along with a 42" breaker bar. The breaker bar isn't compact, of course.

JSF721

Guys, I really appreciate the responses and suggestions.

I will pick up the Precision instruments unit as its a well used tool on these forums, I am just looking for the most compact unit for CL on/off that I can carry on board in the smallest amount of space. (without breaking the bank-LOL)

Thanks,

Jeff

pfbz

Since the Porsche (Hazet?) torque multiplier is difficult to source and insanely expensive, I wonder if anyone has tried something like the SnapOn (BluePoint) GA184A, 4X 1,1000 ft/lb torque multiplier and a semi-normal size high quality torque wrench? Not cheap at $375, but if you could use it with an existing torque wrench about the same cost as the Precision Instruments solution...

https://store.snapon.com/Geared-Head...--P634899.aspx



Looks like there is a Williams version as well, TM-750LWf, available on Amazon. ~22" long. $380.

pfbz

On a second viewing, it sure looks like the tool in the video you posted is the Williams torque multiplier...

Better solution than the BAMF precision instruments split beam? Perhaps, especially if you already have a high quality but smaller torque range split beam torque wrench.

pfbz

Or the Neiko 03715B version for $220?

JSF721

Guys, If I had a torque multiplier like pictured in the video, what would I need to out into it to tighten the bolt?

So the bolt goes into the wheel hub hand tight, the CL socket over the CL bolt, the torque multiplier onto the CL socket, and what goes into the torque multiplier?

Am I missing anything else?

pfbz

A torque wrench or breaker bar goes on top of the torque multiplier, but it can be a much smaller wrench, one you might already own...

The Williams is a 3.6:1 torque multiplier, so to get to the 444ft/lb torque spec for centerlocks, you only need a torque wrench that goes up to 133 (call it 150). That's just a bit higher than normal lug nut torque.

It's basically just a geared reducer. The handle on it I think is just to counterbalance the head so it doesn't spin. Makes a fairly low torque wrench into a very large torque wrench. Or breaker bar...

Think of it this way... An 18" breaker bar on a 3.6:1 torque multiplier will have the power of a 5 foot long breaker bar.

Hvdv85

Thanks for the info. Getting a flat tire still looks like a nightmare to me.

mchrono

Im sure this has all been debated Ad nauseam before, but I have to agree and say that the whole CL thing on road cars really seems like a gimmick. Nobody will really be doing super quick racing pit stop tire changes with these cars. Id rather have the regular lugs at the track or on the street.

atcbi5

Yeah but CL look a lot nicer than the 5 lug stuff.

JSF721

My friend. You have a right to your opinion. I'm struggling to get an equipment List together so I can be equipt. And your opinion is derailing that effort. Please start your own thread and debate the CL Vs lug nut all you want. Thanks!

Dennis C

Here's what you need (not brand specific)

- Big torque wrench, capable of 440 lb./ft. of torque. I bought the Precision Instruments combo torque/wrench breaker bar set.
- Breaker bar
- Optimoly aluminum anti-seize paste
- Jack Point jack stands x4, or another way to lift all four wheels off the ground.
- Brake pedal depressor, which allows you to keep the front wheels from spinning while you torque the bolt. There are many brands available.
- Race Ramps, especially if your car is lowered. I was able to get my floor jack underneath the jack points on my 997 turbo without ramps. It's not possible on my 991 TTS. If your car is lowered, then you will probably need Race Ramps.
- Centering tool for wheels to avoid damage to rotors. This is really nice, especially if you have the PCCB option. It's not technically required, but it makes the job easier.

The 5-lug vs. centerlock argument doesn't make much sense most of the time. My 997 was a 5-lug car, but it didn't have a spare tire anyway. It didn't help that I could take the wheel off in the event of a flat tire, because I didn't have a spare to put on!

pfbz

Did you consider a torque multiplier and your existing torque wrench instead of the BMF torque wrench? And if you did consider but opted for the BMF, why?

I'm just an armchair quarterback, not a centerlock player at this point, but curious. If I picked up a centerlock car, I'm currently leaning towards the torque multiplier. Just keep that in the car perhaps with a medium size breaker bar, any shop that would repair/replace a tire will have a ~150lb torque wrench.
Saw the 3R racing version... Looks nice, though expensive for what it is at $350 for a piece of machined aluminum. Any other options?



True, but it's probably much easier to find a suitable replacement tire than a shop with centerlock tools if your not in a major metro area...