Cup shifter and cables for 997.2 gt3
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Cup shifter and cables for 997.2 gt3
Hello guys
This maybe an old topic but can you help me understand which cup shifter and cables are used for 997.2 GT3?
I read that it is the 996 CUP shifter and cables used. Is this correct?
Any feedback for those who did the conversion? Did you feel a noticeable improvement?
I also read that the OEM street shifter has a shorter throw vs a 996 CUP shifter. Is this true?
I do not want to go with a Numeric set up.
Thanks!
This maybe an old topic but can you help me understand which cup shifter and cables are used for 997.2 GT3?
I read that it is the 996 CUP shifter and cables used. Is this correct?
Any feedback for those who did the conversion? Did you feel a noticeable improvement?
I also read that the OEM street shifter has a shorter throw vs a 996 CUP shifter. Is this true?
I do not want to go with a Numeric set up.
Thanks!
#2
Banned
Hello guys
This maybe an old topic but can you help me understand which cup shifter and cables are used for 997.2 GT3?
I read that it is the 996 CUP shifter and cables used. Is this correct?
Any feedback for those who did the conversion? Did you feel a noticeable improvement?
I also read that the OEM street shifter has a shorter throw vs a 996 CUP shifter. Is this true?
Thanks!
This maybe an old topic but can you help me understand which cup shifter and cables are used for 997.2 GT3?
I read that it is the 996 CUP shifter and cables used. Is this correct?
Any feedback for those who did the conversion? Did you feel a noticeable improvement?
I also read that the OEM street shifter has a shorter throw vs a 996 CUP shifter. Is this true?
Thanks!
The cup shifter and cables are 996 parts as you mentioned.
The oem shifter and cables has a vague and rubbery feeling when shifting imo. The cup shifter and cables results in a very precise and rifle bolt action when shifting gears. The cup shifter is slightly taller than the oem shifter, but is hardly noticeable imo. The slightly taller shifter gives you more leverage and resulted in slightly easier shifting which I enjoy.
At the track I was consistently having issues downshifting into 2nd gear at speed for some of the slower turns at my local tracks with the oem shifter and cables. The shifter and cable upgrade addressed this issue.
If you have the dual mass flywheel, the only downside is a slight buzzing sound you can hear when the radio is off and the windows are up. There is additional nvh from the transmission being transmitted due to the metal ends of the shifter cables. With the lwfw there is too much nvh for a street car if you add the cup shifter and cables imo.
The .2 shifter has more metal bits in it compared to the .1 shifter and is similar to the cup shifter albeit with the shorter throw. Someone correct me if I'm wrong. You can try the cup cables with the oem shifter to save money, but I'd personally pair the cables with the cup shifter since they were designed to work in conjunction with each other.
Last edited by boostedt0y; 11-19-2016 at 11:33 AM.
#3
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I have a .2 gt3 (nb) and had the cup shifter and cables installed earlier this year. Money well spent.
The cup shifter and cables are 996 parts as you mentioned.
The oem shifter and cables has a vague and rubbery feeling when shifting imo. The cup shifter and cables results in a very precise and rifle bolt action when shifting gears. The cup shifter is slightly taller than the oem shifter, but is hardly noticeable imo. The slightly taller shifter gives you more leverage and resulted in slightly easier shifting which I enjoy.
At the track I was consistently having issues downshifting into 2nd gear at speed for some of the slower turns at my local tracks with the oem shifter and cables. The shifter and cable upgrade addressed this issue.
If you have the dual mass flywheel, the only downside is a slight buzzing sound you can hear when the radio is off and the windows are up. There is additional nvh from the transmission being transmitted due to the metal ends of the shifter cables. With the lwfw there is too much nvh for a street car if you add the cup shifter and cables imo.
The .2 shifter has more metal bits in it compared to the .1 shifter and is similar to the cup shifter albeit with the shorter throw. Someone correct me if I'm wrong. You can try the cup cables with the oem shifter to save money, but I'd personally pair the cables with the cup shifter since they were designed to work in conjunction with each other.
The cup shifter and cables are 996 parts as you mentioned.
The oem shifter and cables has a vague and rubbery feeling when shifting imo. The cup shifter and cables results in a very precise and rifle bolt action when shifting gears. The cup shifter is slightly taller than the oem shifter, but is hardly noticeable imo. The slightly taller shifter gives you more leverage and resulted in slightly easier shifting which I enjoy.
At the track I was consistently having issues downshifting into 2nd gear at speed for some of the slower turns at my local tracks with the oem shifter and cables. The shifter and cable upgrade addressed this issue.
If you have the dual mass flywheel, the only downside is a slight buzzing sound you can hear when the radio is off and the windows are up. There is additional nvh from the transmission being transmitted due to the metal ends of the shifter cables. With the lwfw there is too much nvh for a street car if you add the cup shifter and cables imo.
The .2 shifter has more metal bits in it compared to the .1 shifter and is similar to the cup shifter albeit with the shorter throw. Someone correct me if I'm wrong. You can try the cup cables with the oem shifter to save money, but I'd personally pair the cables with the cup shifter since they were designed to work in conjunction with each other.
Was the CUP shifter a noticeable shorter throw compared to the .2 OEM shifter, or was the improvement just more reliable/tactile shifting?
If you don't mind me asking, please PM me on the cost to do so? I understand that the removing the console is the most time consuming portion, so I am may opt to removing the console before I take my car to the shop.
#4
Banned
Great feedback thank you! I currently run the dual mass flywheel, and no intention on switching it. Thanks for the feedback on the noise. I read in a few places that it was an occurrence because of the metal attachments.
Was the CUP shifter a noticeable shorter throw compared to the .2 OEM shifter, or was the improvement just more reliable/tactile shifting?
If you don't mind me asking, please PM me on the cost to do so? I understand that the removing the console is the most time consuming portion, so I am may opt to removing the console before I take my car to the shop.
Was the CUP shifter a noticeable shorter throw compared to the .2 OEM shifter, or was the improvement just more reliable/tactile shifting?
If you don't mind me asking, please PM me on the cost to do so? I understand that the removing the console is the most time consuming portion, so I am may opt to removing the console before I take my car to the shop.
Check your pm.
#5
Rennlist Member
I have a .2 gt3 (nb) and had the cup shifter and cables installed earlier this year. Money well spent.
The cup shifter and cables are 996 parts as you mentioned.
The oem shifter and cables has a vague and rubbery feeling when shifting imo. The cup shifter and cables results in a very precise and rifle bolt action when shifting gears. The cup shifter is slightly taller than the oem shifter, but is hardly noticeable imo. The slightly taller shifter gives you more leverage and resulted in slightly easier shifting which I enjoy.
At the track I was consistently having issues downshifting into 2nd gear at speed for some of the slower turns at my local tracks with the oem shifter and cables. The shifter and cable upgrade addressed this issue.
If you have the dual mass flywheel, the only downside is a slight buzzing sound you can hear when the radio is off and the windows are up. There is additional nvh from the transmission being transmitted due to the metal ends of the shifter cables. With the lwfw there is too much nvh for a street car if you add the cup shifter and cables imo.
The .2 shifter has more metal bits in it compared to the .1 shifter and is similar to the cup shifter albeit with the shorter throw. Someone correct me if I'm wrong. You can try the cup cables with the oem shifter to save money, but I'd personally pair the cables with the cup shifter since they were designed to work in conjunction with each other.
The cup shifter and cables are 996 parts as you mentioned.
The oem shifter and cables has a vague and rubbery feeling when shifting imo. The cup shifter and cables results in a very precise and rifle bolt action when shifting gears. The cup shifter is slightly taller than the oem shifter, but is hardly noticeable imo. The slightly taller shifter gives you more leverage and resulted in slightly easier shifting which I enjoy.
At the track I was consistently having issues downshifting into 2nd gear at speed for some of the slower turns at my local tracks with the oem shifter and cables. The shifter and cable upgrade addressed this issue.
If you have the dual mass flywheel, the only downside is a slight buzzing sound you can hear when the radio is off and the windows are up. There is additional nvh from the transmission being transmitted due to the metal ends of the shifter cables. With the lwfw there is too much nvh for a street car if you add the cup shifter and cables imo.
The .2 shifter has more metal bits in it compared to the .1 shifter and is similar to the cup shifter albeit with the shorter throw. Someone correct me if I'm wrong. You can try the cup cables with the oem shifter to save money, but I'd personally pair the cables with the cup shifter since they were designed to work in conjunction with each other.
more precise shifting in my 7.1 at expense of more nvh and gear whine - improvement for track use only imo
#6
Rennlist Member
Is your goal with this for more precise shifting or ?
Have you considered this:
http://www.function-first.com/produc...right-solution
Have you considered this:
http://www.function-first.com/produc...right-solution
#7
Drifting
Hello guys
This maybe an old topic but can you help me understand which cup shifter and cables are used for 997.2 GT3?
I read that it is the 996 CUP shifter and cables used. Is this correct?
Any feedback for those who did the conversion? Did you feel a noticeable improvement?
I also read that the OEM street shifter has a shorter throw vs a 996 CUP shifter. Is this true?
I do not want to go with a Numeric set up.
Thanks!
This maybe an old topic but can you help me understand which cup shifter and cables are used for 997.2 GT3?
I read that it is the 996 CUP shifter and cables used. Is this correct?
Any feedback for those who did the conversion? Did you feel a noticeable improvement?
I also read that the OEM street shifter has a shorter throw vs a 996 CUP shifter. Is this true?
I do not want to go with a Numeric set up.
Thanks!
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#8
I run the Cup shifter with Cup cables and the factory LWFW. Perfect set up. With windows down there is no audible nvh. With windows up you can hear a slight whine. No big deal in my opinion. I wouldn't do the Numeric either.
#9
Rennlist Member
i put a numeric in my cayman and with stock cables the improvement was minor and disappointing... for max crispness and positivity of feel especially with engine feeling g's on track i think cup cables are the way to go
#10
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Feedback from a well know shop (they will remain nameless) advised me to stay away from the Numeric shifter for 2 reasons...
1. Too notchy
2. I will wear out the gears prematurely
So they highly suggested if I want to go down this route is to stick with the CUP shifter and cables.
I am considering taking the console out myself and bring the car to the shop to avoid the added labor. I assume the removal/install of the console is the most time consuming portion of the install??
Would I see the most gain from the cables or shifter? Would the best bang for the buck just be the cables?
1. Too notchy
2. I will wear out the gears prematurely
So they highly suggested if I want to go down this route is to stick with the CUP shifter and cables.
I am considering taking the console out myself and bring the car to the shop to avoid the added labor. I assume the removal/install of the console is the most time consuming portion of the install??
Would I see the most gain from the cables or shifter? Would the best bang for the buck just be the cables?
#11
Rennlist Member
I am installing cup cables and 997.2 shifter in my 996 GT3, which as everyone knows has a really cheap/plasticky feel.
Just a few head's up (at least based on my research limited to Suncoast, Sunset and Carnewal last week:
- according to Gert, the 996 cup shifter is NLA. Maybe available from stock Stateside? Any ideas?
- Carnewal offers the best price on the cup cables and the 997.2 GT3 shifter.
Best,
Matt
Just a few head's up (at least based on my research limited to Suncoast, Sunset and Carnewal last week:
- according to Gert, the 996 cup shifter is NLA. Maybe available from stock Stateside? Any ideas?
- Carnewal offers the best price on the cup cables and the 997.2 GT3 shifter.
Best,
Matt
#13
I am installing cup cables and 997.2 shifter in my 996 GT3, which as everyone knows has a really cheap/plasticky feel.
Just a few head's up (at least based on my research limited to Suncoast, Sunset and Carnewal last week:
- according to Gert, the 996 cup shifter is NLA. Maybe available from stock Stateside? Any ideas?
- Carnewal offers the best price on the cup cables and the 997.2 GT3 shifter.
Best,
Matt
Just a few head's up (at least based on my research limited to Suncoast, Sunset and Carnewal last week:
- according to Gert, the 996 cup shifter is NLA. Maybe available from stock Stateside? Any ideas?
- Carnewal offers the best price on the cup cables and the 997.2 GT3 shifter.
Best,
Matt
#14
Rennlist Member
Thanks - will definitely investigate. Curious why Gert would say it's NLA on his end.
I am still not clear on the difference (besides the longer throw) between 996 cup and 997.2 GT3 part. Yes, the former is a race part, but I have not seen a side by side compare. I do believe the 997.2 GT3 shifter is a big improvement over the stock 996 GT3 part - but that wouldn't be hard!
Cheers
Matt
I am still not clear on the difference (besides the longer throw) between 996 cup and 997.2 GT3 part. Yes, the former is a race part, but I have not seen a side by side compare. I do believe the 997.2 GT3 shifter is a big improvement over the stock 996 GT3 part - but that wouldn't be hard!
Cheers
Matt
#15
Rennlist Member
There are a few different shifters and this has been documented with pictures at some point.... and are mostly interchangeable. Note the cup shifter/cables you need the right ends and clips for them.
996 cup shifter - metal bushings, longer throws than 997.2 GT/RS
997 short shifter - option for the 977 carreras
997 standard shifter - same used in carreras and GT3, and 987, plastic bushings
997.2 GT/RS - this has a metal bushing shifter with shorter throws
If you have a .2 you can get the cup cables (get the right ends/clips in process).
or get the full 996 cup cables/shifter
or get the full CAE setup
Everyone that has the CAE raves about it.
996 cup shifter - metal bushings, longer throws than 997.2 GT/RS
997 short shifter - option for the 977 carreras
997 standard shifter - same used in carreras and GT3, and 987, plastic bushings
997.2 GT/RS - this has a metal bushing shifter with shorter throws
If you have a .2 you can get the cup cables (get the right ends/clips in process).
or get the full 996 cup cables/shifter
or get the full CAE setup
Everyone that has the CAE raves about it.