Laertes

Anybody have setup tips for JRZ RS Pros on a 997.2 GT3RS? Car has all monoball suspension, stock sway bars, and will be running R7s or Trofeo Rs. Alignment/corner balance is done. Spring rates 600/800. I realize settings will vary by track and driver, but I'm looking to get a good starting point and see if I can learn from anyone else's experience. Also, if anyone has any good technical resources (i.e. documents, websites, etc) for setting up dampers for our cars that would be appreciated as well.

Cheers!

powdrhound

This won't help you much I run these shocks with 1400/1500 mains and 150/250 helpers. Front sway is 1 from full stiff and rear sway 1 from full soft

Front:
Comp: hard -7 (11 total)
Rebound: hard -7 (22 total)

Rear:
Comp: hard -4 (11 total)
Rebound: hard -8 (22 total)

OlsenMotorsports

This won't be a terrible starting point. Just enough rebound in the rear to keep it stable in the brake zone (depending on the ramp selection in the diff), Maybe come out with a click or two of bump if its got some oversteer?

the front needs a good amount of support so thats a good starting point for bump, and just enough rebound to settle the nose down when you pick back up the throttle.

Big stiff front bar to keep the roll couple supported set on stiffest setting, play with the rear bar and dampers exit off.

You can be aggressive on front canister pressure in the 225-235 range on that R7 tire, but no more then 175 rear. You will start to see sidewall deflection (flat slides) in the rear if you are too hard on it with can pressure.

-T.O.

Red Bear

Sebring Baseline
Front Damper C4 R9
Rear Damper C6 R12

Road America Baseline
Front Damper C5 R9
Rear Damper C3R8

2011 GT3RS Pirelli DH Spring rate 700/800

Laertes

Sorry- I want to make sure I understand the convention of the settings. Red Bear, it sounds like you are counting up from the minimum setting (i.e. unwind counter clockwise until it stops, then add clicks clockwise). And powdrhound, I think what you're doing is tightening it up all the way clockwise and then backing off (i.e. hard-7 = fully hard minus seven clicks).

Do I have that right?

powdrhound

That is correct..

OlsenMotorsports

All settings should be from full soft that is correct.

-T.O.

Mvez

Interesting. I got to try mine for the first time at Barber in late November (on my 987)....on 700/800# springs, from what I felt, the car liked for the Comp and Reb settings to be closer, regardless of where they were set in the 4-8 (from full soft) range....I didn't have nearly enough time, so it's work in progress.

For example, when I had the compression softer than rebound by a few clicks, the car felt sloppy (weight transfer) and would get upset. As soon as I stiffened compression closer to rebound, the car was a lot more confidence inspiring.

Car still felt pretty soft overall though, just not enough time to get past this initial run-in. I know it's nowhere near dialed in, just need track time to turn *****...

Front: C7/R7
Rear: C8/R8

Red Bear

^^^^ Settings I provided were from full soft like OlsenMotorsports confirmed.

amdevo

having similar issues with adjustables. I found a setting im extremely comfortable within the first month and now I don't know where to go from that. People telling me to experiment but its not as easy as it sounds. theres more than a 1000 combos and that's without getting into nitrogen pressures

AudiOn19s

I used a process similar to this for initial setup with mine.

http://www.bimmerhaus.com/tech/shocktuningTN.html

Unless everything else is very close to the same, using someone else's setup isn't necessarily going to work on your car as there are just too many variables to consider (spring rate, tires, tire pressure, alignment, rake, sway bar settings, personal preference for feel, etc).

Get the car as close to neutral as possible with hopefully springs first, then sway bars second, then go to fine tuning by setting the shocks. Finding an open lapping day or test and tune day is best for this procedure as you can burn the better part of a day just getting the shocks right. Also make sure if you're running a tire like a slick that needs to be really warm to work that you're giving ample time for that tire to come in before jumping to the next adjustment too.

Consider that if anything changes in your setup, more than likely you just need to make an adjustment on the shocks not start back from zero, but don't forget that for every change in the car you may need to change shocks again to optimize everything.

Finally...personal preference is going to play a key. I run my shocks and sway bars softer than most. That's just the feel I like in the car.