Tie rod end fell out...
#1
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Tie rod end fell out...
The nut that keeps the ball joint secured into the wheel carrier on my 997.1 GT3 may have been over-tightened and the stud sheared while on track this weekend when coming off the transition into T1 at TWS this weekend.
Ordered new outer tie rod end, but the tapered hole on the wheel carrier is bigger than the tapered / threaded part of the ball joint that is supposed to go in there. It appears that the cast aluminum wheel carrier needs a machined sleeve in there for the tie rod to connect properly.
PET does not indicate any separate part# that would fit the bill.
Any suggestions welcome.
Ordered new outer tie rod end, but the tapered hole on the wheel carrier is bigger than the tapered / threaded part of the ball joint that is supposed to go in there. It appears that the cast aluminum wheel carrier needs a machined sleeve in there for the tie rod to connect properly.
PET does not indicate any separate part# that would fit the bill.
Any suggestions welcome.
#2
over 40 years in the automotive biz.....NEVER seen a ball -joint stud shear. i have seen studs that were too loose elongate tapered holes .very strange.....no hitting some thing ? curb? pot hole? change everything....joint/arm/knuckle/carrier.when was the last time it was aligned ? who checks your cars prior to getting on a racetrack [find another]. a machined sleeve ?????? pleeeezzzz
#3
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Depending on the line into T1 at TWS the transition can be BRUTAL. Almost blur your vision. If it was already loose or weakening I can see where that impact could have sheared it.
#4
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Sounds like no damage or hurt which is good. That's some speed ther right?
Assume you are talking steering tie rod end?
I'd be replacing that tie rod and the wheel carrier.
Assume you are talking steering tie rod end?
I'd be replacing that tie rod and the wheel carrier.
#6
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Thanks for all the feedback.
I located the correct bushing and will document the process as things go back together. I am confident that this will not compromise safety and future durability.
Will keep you posted.
I located the correct bushing and will document the process as things go back together. I am confident that this will not compromise safety and future durability.
Will keep you posted.
#7
Interesting. I am concerned though. I don't care how brutal T1 is, it should not snap a ball joint clean without either a previous impact, or a stress riser, or someone installed it with a 3/4 inch impact gun on full blast.
That being said, if a repair bushing actually exists for this specific application ( not a repair part that you are simply going to make work) I would like to see the repair method employed. Personally, I would buy new parts for a vehicle that was going to be put thru the stresses of racing.
Either way be careful and good luck
Rich
That being said, if a repair bushing actually exists for this specific application ( not a repair part that you are simply going to make work) I would like to see the repair method employed. Personally, I would buy new parts for a vehicle that was going to be put thru the stresses of racing.
Either way be careful and good luck
Rich
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#8
I have done this type of repair (pressed steel insert) but would not put it on a sports car or track car where big brakes and wide tyres generate big loads. you can also weld up the hole and remachine but to change the alloy.