Newbie Questions 997.2 GT3 RS
11-19-2015, 05:23 PM
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Newbie Questions 997.2 GT3 RS
Hi all,
Just became the happy owner of a beautiful 2011 3.8 RS !!
20 000 km:s on the clock and in almost perfect condition.
As far as I can see, the front spoiler has been resprayed but everything else looks like brand new :-)
Being quite experienced mechanically but a newbie to modern 911:s I have a few questions:
- There is quite a lot of camber front and rear, between 3 and 4 degrees. I believe factory specs is around 1,5 degrees. I plan to do mainly spirited driving on mountain roads and also some track events but no timed racing. And of course getting there and back. Is it worthwhile to go back to factory specs ? Will stability be noticeably improved ? Will I have as much fun on the track ?
- Brakes are really squeaking - how can I identify what kind of pads I have ? Colour of stock pads ?
- The clutch is replaced by the latest type, factory parts (which I believe is the same as the RS 4.0 ?). There is still a bit of clatter at idle but much less than some other 3.8 RS:s I've tested. However, there is also some transmission noise higher up in the revs. Kind of grinding. What is considered as normal here ?
- Is there any official info regarding the increased tightening torque for the centerlocks ? From 500 to 600 Nm I believe. Does this apply only for racing or also for "normal" driving ?
Thankful for any input !!
Tommy
Just became the happy owner of a beautiful 2011 3.8 RS !!
20 000 km:s on the clock and in almost perfect condition.
As far as I can see, the front spoiler has been resprayed but everything else looks like brand new :-)
Being quite experienced mechanically but a newbie to modern 911:s I have a few questions:
- There is quite a lot of camber front and rear, between 3 and 4 degrees. I believe factory specs is around 1,5 degrees. I plan to do mainly spirited driving on mountain roads and also some track events but no timed racing. And of course getting there and back. Is it worthwhile to go back to factory specs ? Will stability be noticeably improved ? Will I have as much fun on the track ?
- Brakes are really squeaking - how can I identify what kind of pads I have ? Colour of stock pads ?
- The clutch is replaced by the latest type, factory parts (which I believe is the same as the RS 4.0 ?). There is still a bit of clatter at idle but much less than some other 3.8 RS:s I've tested. However, there is also some transmission noise higher up in the revs. Kind of grinding. What is considered as normal here ?
- Is there any official info regarding the increased tightening torque for the centerlocks ? From 500 to 600 Nm I believe. Does this apply only for racing or also for "normal" driving ?
Thankful for any input !!
Tommy
11-19-2015, 11:26 PM
#2
Congrats on the new car! Drive it in good health. Sneak up on its limits slowly and carefully...
1) My GT3 suspension is set to factory, and it seems wonderful, really turns in well and very compliant under power on exit. I am just driving it on the street. Others may know more about the RS setup, but on the 7.2 GT3's the suspensions are well sorted out of the box. I would think you would want factory setup.
2) Your brakes may not be warmed up if they are sqeaking. Get them hot, they quiet down and you will enjoy the bite, feel and release better too.
3) There are many DIY CL wheel changing videos on the internet, check them out. It is no big deal with the proper tools. Take your time and use the grease. And yes, you have to torque them like that for street or track. The hubs will probably outlast you on the street, but they time out after 5000 miles on the track.
4) Don't know about the clutch rattle at idle, other than I have heard it can happen and can be normal. Mine does not rattle, but the RS has a different flywheel, probably different harmonics.
1) My GT3 suspension is set to factory, and it seems wonderful, really turns in well and very compliant under power on exit. I am just driving it on the street. Others may know more about the RS setup, but on the 7.2 GT3's the suspensions are well sorted out of the box. I would think you would want factory setup.
2) Your brakes may not be warmed up if they are sqeaking. Get them hot, they quiet down and you will enjoy the bite, feel and release better too.
3) There are many DIY CL wheel changing videos on the internet, check them out. It is no big deal with the proper tools. Take your time and use the grease. And yes, you have to torque them like that for street or track. The hubs will probably outlast you on the street, but they time out after 5000 miles on the track.
4) Don't know about the clutch rattle at idle, other than I have heard it can happen and can be normal. Mine does not rattle, but the RS has a different flywheel, probably different harmonics.
11-21-2015, 12:11 AM
#3
The clattering is normal, it's the single-mass flywheel. It's a badge of honor.
For the street, you probably want 2-2.5 max negative camber for a street/track compromise. If you are on the street only, run the factory setup.
For the street, you probably want 2-2.5 max negative camber for a street/track compromise. If you are on the street only, run the factory setup.
11-21-2015, 04:34 AM
#4
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- There is quite a lot of camber front and rear, between 3 and 4 degrees. I believe factory specs is around 1,5 degrees. I plan to do mainly spirited driving on mountain roads and also some track events but no timed racing. And of course getting there and back. Is it worthwhile to go back to factory specs ? Will stability be noticeably improved ? Will I have as much fun on the track ?
===> -3 to -4 is too much even for full track use on what is essentially a street car. based on your used, -2.5 F and -2 rear is good starting point to experiment.
- Brakes are really squeaking - how can I identify what kind of pads I have ? Colour of stock pads ?
===> they all squeal you will get used to it.
- However, there is also some transmission noise higher up in the revs. Kind of grinding. What is considered as normal here ?
===> not sure about tranny noise but clutch noise is normal (flywheel)
- Is there any official info regarding the increased tightening torque for the centerlocks ? From 500 to 600 Nm I believe. Does this apply only for racing or also for "normal" driving ?
===> i do 600Nm
===> -3 to -4 is too much even for full track use on what is essentially a street car. based on your used, -2.5 F and -2 rear is good starting point to experiment.
- Brakes are really squeaking - how can I identify what kind of pads I have ? Colour of stock pads ?
===> they all squeal you will get used to it.
- However, there is also some transmission noise higher up in the revs. Kind of grinding. What is considered as normal here ?
===> not sure about tranny noise but clutch noise is normal (flywheel)
- Is there any official info regarding the increased tightening torque for the centerlocks ? From 500 to 600 Nm I believe. Does this apply only for racing or also for "normal" driving ?
===> i do 600Nm