John@Fabspeed

Mine wasn't complaining when she was pressing the brakes on her own car so I could bleed them for her!! Funny how that works

Spyerx

I use a motive pressure bleeder. Like most, I do not put fluid in the motive. Just keep reservoir full and use it for pressure. When I get to the front left, I will ask my wife to pump the brake for a couple flushes. Unsure if that does anything more... but I have great pedal feel, always (RE10 pads, Endless fluid).

My shop uses a suction bleeder that works very well with same pedal feel results. Just be careful as it can suck the reservoir dry very quickly.

forhamilton

Thanks guys. Awesome advice.

Perimeter

The ABS circuit adds a valve and return line which will not bleed out unless you have the SD tool to open the valve.

It is a small amount and could probably be rationalized as being naturally flushed during driving later when you find a rough road to hit the brakes for ABS on causing that new fluid in the standard lines to flow into the ABS lines.

CosmosMpower

That's the only way I'll do it. When I've used a power bleeder before it feels a little mushy for some reason.

C-gt3

i just did mine for the first time ever...
used motive bleeder... added fluid while i bleed and got air in the system...
then filled up the motive with the fluid and no problem... granted it was a pain getting air in the system and going through the process... i bleed the lines four times and learned how to do it like a pro... pedal is rock hard and diy in da books without local shop ripping me off!

John@Fabspeed

There's a shirt with your name on it!

C-gt3

http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/9...uid-flush.html

Mike J

I use my shop's compressed air with an air separator, pressure regulator, and a custom cap for the reservoir to pump the brake system.

I would NEVER put the brake pedal to the floor if I can avoid it -> normal brake operation moves the the master cylinder piston for a limited part of the stroke, when you push the pedal past that, you are pushing the piston and its seals into parts of the barrell that are not normally touched. On a newer car it's likely OK, but there is a chance that there would be some corrosion or deposits on the walls of the master cylinder that will now grind against the seals. Rather than take that risk, I just use pressure bleeding and have no worries.

Clutch circuits are different of course, given the cylinders are used for their entire stroke.

BTW, I bleed the brakes slightly differently than the video above - I do the outside bleeder first, that ensures maximum flushing of the fluid inside the brake caliper. I can see the rational about doing the inside first so no additional residue gets into the calipers, but I found that by doing the outside first, very little fluid is needed to be flushed from the inside of the caliper. I can tell new/old fluid because I use tinted brake fluids (like Super Blue).

Cheers,

Mike

Bullitt44

The "old fashion" way is best.

RedRSA

I made a similar setup and it works perfectly. Efficient and simple - just make sure to refill the reservoir before it empties. With practice you know how much catch bottle volume equates.

That is why after I flush the entire system I always finish with a brief pressurize and bleed the old fashioned pump/release method to complete the job. Only takes about two-three pumps each and results in firmest pedal feel.