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Time for radiator screens and a new radiator

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Old 03-01-2015, 03:11 PM
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Drew_K
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Default Time for radiator screens and a new radiator

I was at one of the local tracks yesterday, Texas World Speedway, and a rock must have hit the center radiator in my 997.1 GT3 because I had a small stream shooting directly out of the front of it. I caught it pretty early so I think the engine is fine, but I definitely need a new center radiator. And I guess it's also time to add debris screens (yes shame on me for not doing it earlier).

Couple of questions for anyone who has replaced their radiator.

1. I was planning on getting an OEM one but is there an aftermarket center radiator that's better or perhaps the same quality but less expensive?

2. I'm going to do the job myself. Anything else I should replace or inspect while I have the front bumper off? Besides adding debris screens of course. I was thinking about the hoses perhaps. Mine is a 1997 so the hoses are ~8 years old now.

3. As for replacing the coolant, I can't find any detailed instructions on how to get the air out of the system when refilling. I'll take it to the dealer or one of the local Porsche specialty shops if needed but I'd rather do it myself. Does anyone have any experience with doing this?

Thanks for any wisdom.
Old 03-01-2015, 03:24 PM
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Spyerx
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personally i'd replace all the radiators and hoses, add screens, and add screens in the wheel wells. Car is 8 years old and the end caps have a tendency to start leaking, and hoses cracking. You're pulling the bumper...
Old 03-01-2015, 08:48 PM
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porcha monkey
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easiest way to do the coolant change is to get a coolant system vac. when the system is empty the vac will suck out all the air in the system and once the system is ready you just put the vac hose into your coolant, open a valve and the system draws in the coolant until almost full. i have this one and it works well, but i have used slightly better ones before. http://www.carid.com/fjc/coolant-vac...FYklgQodDYAAtA
Old 03-01-2015, 08:51 PM
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FLT6SPD
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Call SharkWerks about CSF full aluminum radiators. csfrace.com
Old 03-01-2015, 09:05 PM
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redmonkey928
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Originally Posted by Test Jet
Call SharkWerks about CSF full aluminum radiators. csfrace.com
+1 on this.

I have them, awesome build quality and all aluminum construction.
Old 03-01-2015, 09:16 PM
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Modena 1
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Added car graphic screens and they are nice and oem but the shop spent quite a bit of time fitting it perfect.
Old 03-02-2015, 12:39 PM
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Drew_K
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Thanks all - I'm going to replace all 3 radiators with CSF's. I'm also going to replace the hoses but I'll probably pull the bumper first, and under trays if needed, to see what hoses are there and how they're routed. I'm having a hard time picturing how everything is connected. I imagine there are 2 long hoses from engine to the front (supply and return) and then a hose between each of the front radiators. I've replaced radiators & hoses before in front engine cars and it's usually pretty simple because everything is up front.
Old 03-02-2015, 12:42 PM
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Drew_K
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Originally Posted by porcha monkey
easiest way to do the coolant change is to get a coolant system vac. when the system is empty the vac will suck out all the air in the system and once the system is ready you just put the vac hose into your coolant, open a valve and the system draws in the coolant until almost full. i have this one and it works well, but i have used slightly better ones before. http://www.carid.com/fjc/coolant-vac...FYklgQodDYAAtA
I didn't realize these vac systems were that inexpensive. I'm going to order one and do the coolant myself. From I read, when you pull the vacuum, all of the hoses collapse on themselves? Seems like it might lead to cracking a weak hose but I plan on replacing the hoses anyways.

Anyone know if our cars have a bleed valve at the high point in the coolant system? I've heard of some cars having this, which also helps to remove any air.
Old 03-03-2015, 01:00 AM
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porcha monkey
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Originally Posted by Drew_K
I didn't realize these vac systems were that inexpensive. I'm going to order one and do the coolant myself. From I read, when you pull the vacuum, all of the hoses collapse on themselves? Seems like it might lead to cracking a weak hose but I plan on replacing the hoses anyways.

Anyone know if our cars have a bleed valve at the high point in the coolant system? I've heard of some cars having this, which also helps to remove any air.
yes, hoses will be completely collapsed. I personally have never had a hose fail from using the vac and you can also use the vac as a tester to see if there is a leak in the system. once you pull full vac on the system just turn the air supply off and let the system sit under vacuum and watch to see if the gauge moves. No movement means no leak!
Old 03-03-2015, 01:53 AM
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993GT
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+1 for CSF rads, great stuff, I've seen better temp control and all-metal is a durability plus....
Old 03-03-2015, 10:38 AM
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surlynkid
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Originally Posted by porcha monkey
easiest way to do the coolant change is to get a coolant system vac. when the system is empty the vac will suck out all the air in the system and once the system is ready you just put the vac hose into your coolant, open a valve and the system draws in the coolant until almost full. i have this one and it works well, but i have used slightly better ones before. http://www.carid.com/fjc/coolant-vac...FYklgQodDYAAtA
you just stick that black cone into the reservoir cap to make this work? I am in the same boat. I have a leak somewhere up front. small leak, but a leak nonetheless. I need to take off the bumper, find out what is leaking, and potentially install CSF radiators unless it is just a simple fitting or something. I don't need the vacuum tester to see if I have a leak. I just need it to get the air out of the system before I refill it.
Old 03-03-2015, 01:07 PM
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Originally Posted by surlynkid
you just stick that black cone into the reservoir cap to make this work? I am in the same boat. I have a leak somewhere up front. small leak, but a leak nonetheless. I need to take off the bumper, find out what is leaking, and potentially install CSF radiators unless it is just a simple fitting or something. I don't need the vacuum tester to see if I have a leak. I just need it to get the air out of the system before I refill it.
yes thats exactly how the vac works. System needs to be drained first, then all you do is stick the cone in the reservoir and hook it to a air supply. The vacuum will then suck out all the air from the system and once the system is in a complete vacuum state you put the hose into your new coolant and the system draws in the coolant as the vacuum diminishes and pressure normalizes in the system.
Old 03-06-2015, 10:34 PM
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altonj
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The Vac systems work extremely well.

For replacement radiators, it is hard to beat the CSF Race products. We have installed them with great results.

Cheers
Old 03-09-2015, 01:55 PM
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Drew_K
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UPDATE:

I installed all three CSF radiators this weekend, although I still have to fab some radiator screens so I haven't put the bumper back on yet. I haven't seen anyone post that they've actually replaced their radiators themselves, so here are a few things I learned along the way.

To drain the coolant, I used the following post: https://rennlist.com/forums/997-gt2-...n-coolant.html

Pulling the bumper took maybe 90 minutes, and I really took my time, putting each set of screws into labelled bags, etc. I used the following two instruction links for the bumper. You can mainly rely on the first link, but the second set has additional pictures to help you locate where to remove screws. NOTE: you need to disconnect the wiring harness from the passenger side wheel well and the headlight washer hose from the driver side wheel well. Once you start to pull the bumper off, there's an additional electrical plug to disconnect near the front radiator.

https://rennlist.com/forums/997-gt2-...removal-3.html

http://gallery.rennlist.com/gallery/albuq24

Once the bumper is removed, you have access to the radiators. The center one is pretty easy to remove: Remove the bottom plate holding it up (2 bolts). Pull off the duct (push down tabs on top). At this point, the holding thing holding the radiator up will be the three hoses into it. It helps to have a second set of hands to hold the radiator or put a jack gently underneath for support while you remove the hoses.

For the side radiators: Removing / installing these took about half the day, mainly because I wasn't sure how to actually remove them. The side radiators are actually behind condensers. Fortunately, you only have to remove one bolt and then slide them out. This will allow the condenser to be moved forward, giving enough room to slide each radiator out from below once the hoses and remaining bolts are removed. When I first saw the condensers, I was afraid they'd have to be completely disconnected. Some of these hose clamps are the type that require you to squeeze two tabs together, and some of these are a **$#& to get to. I HIGHLY recommend buying this tool.

http://www.amazon.com/OTC-4525-Cable-Type-Flexible-Pliers/dp/B000F5JM0O/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1425919215&sr=8-3&keywords=radiator+hose+tool http://www.amazon.com/OTC-4525-Cable-Type-Flexible-Pliers/dp/B000F5JM0O/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1425919215&sr=8-3&keywords=radiator+hose+tool

You'll also have to remove the horn bracket to access one of the hoses from the center to side radiator. One bolt and the whole thing comes out.

Each side radiator rests on a steel bracket. I removed the lower bolt towards the center of the car, which allows the bracket to be moved a little, giving more access to the hoses. One of the side radiators has a fan behind it. THANKFULLY the fan isn't bolted to the radiator, like I've seen in other cars. The fan connected to the duct behind the radiator. Otherwise I would have had to completely disassemble that side of the car to pull the entire radiator/fan assembly out.

Note that each side radiator also has a small hose towards the top that must be disconnected. Pressing the tab to remove these hoses was a $#@. I had a friend push the tab down while I worked it off.

I used a vacuum tool to refill the coolant, and it worked like a charm. About 4 gallons of fluid. Here's the exact tool I bought:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002SRH5G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002SRH5G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It took me a full day to get to this point (morning until dinner time), a lot of which was spent staring at stuff trying to figure out how to remove the radiators. Hopefully the above helps someone else.
Old 03-09-2015, 03:08 PM
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surlynkid
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^ when are we going to be on track together? You always seem to be at other events than me. I have my bumper off now as the center radiator return hose fitting was dripping. PITA to find leak. Had to pressure up system to 15psi but even that barely showed it.



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