Matrog

Alan C. -- I see you have aftermarket Forgeline GT1 wheels.

Are they the same width as OE or did you go .5" wider ? That might make a difference allowing you to use wider replacement tires.

Just wondering so I get the widest possible tires I can (that won't rub) when I replace my stock tires on my stock wheels.

Just to confirm this works:

245.35.19 and 325.30.19 on narrow body 2010 GT3 w/ OE wheels.

Thanks,
Matthew

Alan C.

Matthew, I had the current tires mounted on the stock wheels before the Forgelines.

usctrojanGT3

Are those RS sizes?

usctrojanGT3

Do you even if they had a narrow body non-RS 997 GT3 or a wide body 997 GT3? I can go wider in the rear on the RS than I could have on the non-RS (305 vs 335). Why do they make the slick sizes so confusing???

Spyerx

Because race car!

And to keep the noobs away by fear of intimidation.

usctrojanGT3

hahaha I need to know the proper size of the slicks if I want to take a little sniff without the nannies going nuts.

paver

I bet 26.00 and 27.33 would make them go nuts for sure.

skxf430

jpjp,

Do you have Michelins in 31/71/18 and 30/65/18?

4forme

Drop me a PM of you want a deal on Hoosiers.

VID997

When I first started running R6's (up front), I had stock shocks with Champion Springs, sway bars, and a shock tower brace in conjunction with OEM GT2 RS rims with 7mm spacers. At first everything work perfectly. However, as I got faster, suspension adjustments were needed to keep the tire from rubbing on the wheelwell/ fender. First we removed the 7mm spacers. After that I started prematurely wearing the outside edge of the tires. We then made alignment adjustments (as much as we could with the stock control arms and other stock bits). Shortly after that the tires started rubbing on the bottom of the spring plate. Therefore, we needed to back off on some of the alignment settings. As my speed continued to increase the infamous turbo understeer started to become a bigger issue.

At that point the decision was made to scrap all of the OEM suspension bits and install coil overs. Ended up going with Ohlins TTX46's up front and TTX36's in the rear. Up front we installed RSS adjustable control arms, RSS adjustable toe steer kit, TRG adjust AWD drop links, and Turbo Kraft Monoball Camber Plates. Rear essentially mimics this set-up, but we opted to go with Porsche CUP Car adjustable control arms.

All is good for now, even with running the 7mm spacers. I would not advise going down this route unless you are tracking A LOT. There is a ton of set-up and testing to do in order to dial everything in. If you do go down this avenue be prepared to dig deep into your pockets and you may need to brake a piggy bank or two along the way!

However, you may be just fine if you do not drive your vehicle to its mechanical (suspension) threshold.

Keep in mind the above involved wheel fitment and issues with a Turbo, not a GT3.

audipwr1

Get some solid street tires - once you can drive the pants off them upgrade. Slicks or semi slicks for new guys to the track is a bad idea. They don't give feedback once you move past optimal slip angle, they just give up. Street tires grip reduce more linearly with slip angle and are much easier to recover in slides etc

I think RS3's are a steal of a deal, have good audible feedback, and will get you a large handful of track days before replacement. I just bought a set on closeout for 900 bucks and I will pass most dudes on hoosiers who didn't put in the time learning to find the limit of tires before upgrading

Nine1won

What size did you buy? Stock 235 & 305?

audipwr1

Yessir - Wheelworks in SF matched tirerack and are going to install them on Saturday for me

Nine1won

You're lucky you don't have CL's! I probably need to go to the dealer for tire swap. Doubt Wheelworks has the massive torque wrench or the know how for CL's...

audipwr1

Can just bring them the wheels and throw the car on jackstands