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FYI. I found I really couldn't tell much difference from stock to semi solid engine mounts re NVH levels. Have had a few brands and types.
However....transmission mounts can really make a difference to NVH...not all good. I am happy with the function first ones, as they seem the good when you want street levels of civility (is that a word?) when cruising, and provide track levels of support when going hard. (Im not associated w them)
Are you street driving with the halo seats? Is it annoying?
Yes. I thought it would be annoying at first but not really. On street I set the seat further back than I do on track. When it's further back the visibility is fine for street(to me). Getting in and out is a little bit annoying due to the higher seat bolster-My next mod will come into play for this.
It has been two years since this start of this wonderful relationship. Like many relationships there are ups and downs, but I am happy to say that the downs have been left behind and the ups keep getting better.
To celebrate our two-year, we are going to start with some basic service items(wheel bearings all four corner, front inner & outter tie rods, .2 rear dog bones, brake pads). With 55K miles and 20 track days, I'd rather get them done and not have to worry about it later.
I did replaced the front outter tie rods when I first got the car just because the original ones looked pretty ratty. Two years and 9K miles(20 track days) later the outters are still good but the left inner has a fraction of millimeter of play so the replacement was well warranted.
As luck would have it, electricity went out the night I was doing this. Ugh. Fortunately iphone has a good enough flash so I was able to finish that portion and stay on schedule with the number of nights I had to work with before the first track event of the year.
True love- Q-tipping the sphericals.
I did sneak in a little upgrade...the RS 4.0/GT2RS rear uprights. These uprights are same as all other 997 model except for the spherical bearing where the bottom of the shocks mount to. The old upright rubbers were flexing by touch of hand.
BTW, changing rear uprights and wheel bearings is definitely not ideal as a home DIY. Removing the uprights is one thing but pressing/pulling the bearings is real grunt work and can be a real PIA if the bearing don't budge(bring out that torch!). Credit to the mechanics who do this type of work daily. On a race cars without parking brakes the rear uprights are much more easy to install. Wrestling with parking brake springs = Total PIA!
... a GT3 Cup racing through streets of Baltimore! I love this video!! - The MOMO GT3 Cup on a street circuit! Yes, my home town, doing things that I couldn't do on those streets without going to jail.
Here's the video link (I apologize in advance for those who can't view this video, this is the only format I can come up with is on fb)-
This video has inspired me to get those seats, steering wheel, and shift light. I did the seats last Fall so the steering wheel is now.
It is essential to me to keep the steering angle sensor so modification was necessary to be compatible with non-factory wheel and quick-release hub. Not off to a good start as the fragile plastic retainer clips broke off so I bought a new steering angle sensor. FYI- steering angle sensor feeds signal via CAN-bus to ABS, TC, PSM, PASM, and in my case DSC as well. So pretty important thing to have functioning properly.
Steering column with steering angle sensor removed.
New sensor
On the chopping block
Results
The quick-release wheel comes in handy when cleaning the gauges...
...and for getting into the high bolsters racing seat in tight parking spot.
and there's this-
Lastly this-
Now I feel like the driver in the video! Everything here is reversible(minus chopping the steering sensor to fit).
So it was suppose to be easy, 3 wires to connect universal type fit, right? Wrong!
The Cartek shift light(on the right) is currently not calibrated for 997.1 tach signal and I didn't know that, neither did the dealer and the manufacturer at the time so I spent hours trying to get it to work. Hopefully Cartek will come up with a way for users to calibrate for different application in the near future. For now, enter the Shift-I unit(on the left), this one can be calibrated for the tach signal for different cars.
Only problem with the Shift-i is its near impossible to get right now. Manufacturer and dealers all sold out. I did find a used one on ebay in Asia which I ended paying more than a new MSRP and a over 100 bucks for shipping to get it here in time for this weekend's track event.
Arrived and installed it last night. Made a nice aluminum bracket for it too.
After that I was able to sleep. Yes, I know, I'm insane.
Tom,
I hear you on the parking brake. When I first got my .2, I swapped all of the CL hubs out for the traditional 5-lug setup, and the hardest part of the entire job was trying to get the parking brake assembly put back together. Total PITA!!
Tom,
I hear you on the parking brake. When I first got my .2, I swapped all of the CL hubs out for the traditional 5-lug setup, and the hardest part of the entire job was trying to get the parking brake assembly put back together. Total PITA!!
For sure!
My left rear wheel bearing(the corner that get most load) had to be torched off on a 20-ton press! The other three came off easier.
Hey Tom, what wire did you tap for rpm signal? I have the same ishift tach light and tried the ignition coil wire (green with blue tracer of ecu) but reading on ishift.
Hey Tom, what wire did you tap for rpm signal? I have the same ishift tach light and tried the ignition coil wire (green with blue tracer of ecu) but reading on ishift.
I ran a wire to the ECU. Any one of the six green wires on connector E (grey connector) is ignition trigger. That's what I'm using.
Hey Tom!
Thanks for the thread. I really enjoyed reading up over the past couple of days (though it did keep me from working at times...).
I was really happy to discover that there is a DSC standalone setup for the 996. I had read about the DSC for the 997 previously and was already quite sure that it would be the optimal setup for my goal of building the best possible combination of street- / track day car. I was even considering seeing if it would be possible to do a standalone setup (I enjoy playing with car electronics. Yes, I am a bit nutty too) - but you guys already took care of that. When I get down the road far enough (http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/9...d-odyssey.html), I will def be ordering. Is there another option for 996 rear shocks other than the Tractives? I'd love them, but I've been throwing money at the car at a very alarming rate this year... I was hoping to pick up the controller when I do the suspension this summer and maybe moving to the Tractives next year.
BTW, I am from Rockville (worked in Baltimore for a couple of years a while back too). I will be in town in August at the very latest. Stopping by TPC is on my to-do list
Hey Tom!
Thanks for the thread. I really enjoyed reading up over the past couple of days (though it did keep me from working at times...).
My pleasure. Thanks for reading.
Originally Posted by SteveMFr
I was really happy to discover that there is a DSC standalone setup for the 996. I had read about the DSC for the 997 previously and was already quite sure that it would be the optimal setup for my goal of building the best possible combination of street- / track day car. I was even considering seeing if it would be possible to do a standalone setup (I enjoy playing with car electronics. Yes, I am a bit nutty too) - but you guys already took care of that.
We're finishing up a 1000+hp 996 Turbo with DSC/Tractive Standalone package this week. You're welcome to stop by to check it out.
Originally Posted by SteveMFr
Is there another option for 996 rear shocks other than the Tractives? I'd love them, but I've been throwing money at the car at a very alarming rate this year... I was hoping to pick up the controller when I do the suspension this summer and maybe moving to the Tractives next year.
Yes, that would be OEM 997 PASM rear shock or Bilstein 997 Damptronic, but will require changing the rear uprights(aka wheel carrier) to 997 which involves pressing out the drive hubs, new wheel bearing, and the biggest PITA factor of modifying(welding and machining) the 997 uprights to be compatible with 996 wheel speed sensors, and then buy adjustable links to correct bump steer because as is its out of whack. Having done all this before, it is cheaper to buy a set of Tractives and end up with better shocks,
We're finishing up a 1000+hp 996 Turbo with DSC/Tractive Standalone package this week. You're welcome to stop by to check it out.
Ohhhh whooops. Did not have my location in my sig here on RL. Sorry.
I'd love to come by - can't do it in the coming days, tho. Strasbourg to Jessup is a bit of a haul...
Will try to stop by next trip over - August at the latest.
Originally Posted by Tom-TPC Racing
Yes, that would be OEM 997 PASM rear shock or Bilstein 997 Damptronic, but will require changing the rear uprights(aka wheel carrier) to 997 which involves pressing out the drive hubs, new wheel bearing, and the biggest PITA factor of modifying(welding and machining) the 997 uprights to be compatible with 996 wheel speed sensors, and then buy adjustable links to correct bump steer because as is its out of whack. Having done all this before, it is cheaper to buy a set of Tractives and end up with better shocks,
I have to decide what to do with the suspension as the 997 body with 996 underpinnings leaves a good 20mm of room between the edge of the tire and the fender lip both front and rear (standard 7 GT3RS/GT2 sizes/offsets). I was considering running the wider Cup LCA inner bearings and longer dogbones on the rear. I don't know what I'd do with wider LCA's on front to keep the camber reasonable for the street.
We'll see. New wheels or spacers would be the easy alternative.
I believe the 7.2 GT3/2 front uprights would be an improvement - and I need to get rid of my 4wd uprights. So I have some decisions to make.
03-09-2016, 03:06 AM
